MAV4758AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I tilted machine onto the front to acces the rear panel. i removed the three screws to expose pump, took of the drive belt located under appliance, removed the three pump screws and removed old defective pump. I installed new pump, put the drive belt back on, reinstalled back panel and screws, hooked the appliance up and started. Been running great ever since. Entire process too about 10 min.

The instructions from others on this web site helped out greatly. Changing out the timer was quite straight forward. After removing the (3) screws on the panel cover, and the (2) holding the timer in place I simply unplugged the old cords, and plugged them in to the new timer. The only tricky part was removing the button skirt but a couple of You Tube videos showed the proper technique. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to pull out the plastic piece in the back of the timer that was attached to the button skirt

Remove front panel and back service panel below water conn. lines. Put a 4" plastic box between the tub and inside of cabinet "directly opposite the spring to be removed to lower the tub to base for less opposing travel to unlatch spring from tub hook. Also took an old slotted screw driver w/ a blade about 1/4 " and grinded 1/8 from middle about an1/8" deep and used it to latch the spring when pushing it up and off the tub. Replaced all 6. Also did motor pivot spring. Tested and the it worked for one cycle, then the tub again just falls to the right as if the spring at 9 o'clock was broke and strains the belt drive but the spin cycle still works o.k. and the washer does not bang and walk away till you stop the machine. Thought the 6 tub springs would take care of both problems. Told that the snubber ring needs to be replaced. Never but another maytag again. JUst did the belt,a week later the water pump went then the springs.....

I simply emptied the machine of all the water, tilted the washer on its side,removed the small gray access panel located on the back of the washer, removed both hoses and the drive belt. Then I removed the three screw bolts that hold the water pump in place. Then I replaced the old pump with the new on by just following the process in reverse. I did notice that the new pump did not come with a metal support plate(at least thats what I called it. No problem though when I found out from a local repairman that its a newer design. Total time less than 15 minutes.

The hardest part of this is the springs. The best way to disconnect and reconnect was to tilt the tub towards the spring I was trying to work on (thus putting less tension on the spring and cutting down the distance). I took a large boot and jammed it into the oposite side wall to hold it in a tilted position before I disconnected the spring and then redid that to reconnect using a vice grip wrench. I replaced all three things, snubber, brake roto and stator and it went back together very easily. The key on the pully shaft was hard to reattach but there was a trick to that as well. The shaft has to move up slightly to slide ring on so you need to have something under the tub to help raise it. After that was back together it was 15 mins. to finish and now the washer is running like new.

I opened the front of the machine. The clips had rusted. One broke and the others were very difficult to work with. I pried the panel open with a large screwdriver. I took the back panel off to access the water pump. I removed the back panel on the electricals to access the timer. To replace the timer I pried off the decorative cover. To get the knob off you have to squeeze in on the timer split shaft while pulling out on the know. This was the second hardest part. (The front panel access was the most difficult). After that the timer clip is easy to loosen and it slides a littel then pops out. Electrical connection was obvious. The motor sping was the next most difficlt part. The spring fits on the rear part of the motor which is most easily accessed through the rear panel used for replacing the water pump. The water pump has three screws holding it and two hose clamps that come off easily with a pair of pliers. Before removing the water pump, I had to tip up the machine and take the belt off. This was also pretty easy. Put it back together and works great again on all cycles.

Obvious problem: belt destroyed. The plastic pulley on the motor was damaged beyond repair. Since you can't replace just the plastic pulley, you have to purchase another motor. The machine still would not spin. Checked the pump again. The bearings might be bad. Replaced pump; Success! washer works again. Total repair: belt $15.68, new pulley with motor $132.00, and new pump $80.00. Estimated cost to repair about $228.00. Time to troubleshoot. 1 hour, time to fix 1 hour; Total time in labor about 2 hours.

I took the bad water pump off installed the new one and hooked up the new drive belt. Overall it took me twenty minutes, not all that hard to do.

This is a very simple repair, I opened the top of the washer by inserting a screwdriver between the top and the washer cabinet. There are 2 clips on the front of washer, locate and push in to release top. Lift top with lid attached and remove the 2 screws holding the lid to the top of washer. Remove lid and replace hinge pin and hinge.
Replace lid, close top , all done. Total time about 15 minutes or so. Now the lid will stay up and not fall on someone.

Took a screwdriver and pried up the top of washer, then reached in and unscrewed the front two screws that allowed the front to be lifted off.
Removed two screws on lower right side that allowed us to pry open right side of washer. There are six springs along the bottom of washer that keep the tub stable and keep it from bouncing against sides while in spin mode. One of the springs broke and needed to be replaced. Off course it was the one that was in the far back and the hardest to get too. But by prying open the right side it was reachable. The wife pushed against the tub to make the spring stretch a little less but still was too difficult. We took the advice of another home repair guy and put quarters in the spring (about $1.75 worth) to make it stretch out, then it was simple to connect the two ends, remove the quarters and voila....it was done. Screwed theright side back on, but the minimum order on the springs was six and the others seemed fine, we just put the other five inside the washer cabinet, replaced the front panel, reset the clamps on top of the front panel, slammed the top down and we were back in business. The parts including shipping was a little over $10.00. So I am sure we saved at least $140 repair job.

Replace valve by prying up the lid it is much easier than the small square entrance on back side bottom

Vey Easy to Fix. 1)Turn Water off at the wall. 2)Remove access panel on back of washer. 3) Remove Water pump. It is bolted down to the bottom of the washer by three nut head bolts. when loose the pump can be manipulated and tilted so the belt will have slack and most likely fall right off. Have a bucket ready. Remove water hose from top of pump by sgueaing clam with pliars and sliding clamp up hose. allow to drain in bucket. Lift drain hose out from wall and allow to drain through the pump into bucket. remove hose from pump that goet to drain. Replace pump and reverse steps listed above.

removed the screw holding the actuator, ordered the new part and replaced it when it arrived. Shipping was really fast and I even received it one day early.

First push inner tub to left rear, all the way, and
unscrew hinge from inside of tub. repeat same on
right side. lift cover off and unscrew other half of
hinge off cover, both sides.reverse procedures and your done.
Note: always replace both hinge's new while
you have it apart.

tip washer up on wooden blocks.remove drive belt.remove "E" clip from tub drive pulley and remove all the parts.Install new parts in kit as per instructions.machine works great!