BA8240 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Shut off water supply, unplugged washer power, removed supply hoses from old washer valve assembly, removed valve mounting plate and removed old valve assembly from mounting plate, diagrammed and disconnected hot and cold solenoid valve wiring and removed valve assembly outlet hose. Installed and connected new valve, performing the preceding steps in reverse order. pressurized new valve, verified valve function and checked for leaks and placed washer back in service.

Removed front panel, removed bolts from the front of top panel, lifted. Removed hoses, then 4 screws from siphon break at top right rear of machine, removed siphon break. Installed replacement siphon break and secured with screws. Put some dish soap in hoses and slid them into place and tightened clamps. (It is necessary to move the top panel up and down at various times in the process to do all of this.) Then secured the top with the front bolts. Then installed front panel. Tested the machine, no leak.

Remove the following items: Washer to sink hose (loosen hose clamp and twist hose), two philips screws from bottom of front panel, front panel, upper side bolt screws, tilt up top washer deck and secure, remove 4 syphon break screws from rear of unit, remove pump to syphon break hose,
remove old syphon break, install new part and tighten with hose clamp, re-install pump to syphon break hose, re-assemble in reverse order. Check for leaks. Show your wife.

I removed one screw from the access panel directly below the syphon break. I removed the 4 screws that secure the elbow to the valve. I reached inside the access panel and pulled the valve towards the front of the washer far enough so I could reach in and remove the broken elbow. I inserted the new elbow and replaced all the screws. I connected the drain hose to the syphon break, connected both water lines and I was done!

First thing unpluged power cord from wall outlet, removed hot and cold water supply hoses.Then took out srew holding metal plate ,pulled plate out exposing valve, marked wires and diconnected.Pulled clamp and hose from valve.Pulled out valve and reinstalled new.Reconnected wires and hose.Installed screw to hold in place, reconnected hot and cold supply hoses.Plug unit back in. Job done.Washer works like new.

followed simple directions... no brainer.
just be careful - shut off water and unlug first.

First removed 2 screws(phillips) at bottom of front cover and lifted front to remove. Then removed 2 3/8 screws from under top cover and lifted cover and slid forward to exposed Syphon Break. After running briefly on spin, it was easy to see where the leak was. Syphon break was installed in 5 minutes by removing both hoses and 4 hex screws and reinstalling. Part arrived as promised in 3 days. I was very pleased with the whole experience.

pulled out wash/dry stacked combo unit from cubbyhole (this was the hardest part) . Shutoff both hose supplies, turn off power to unit.disconnect power cord @ coupling. Disconnect both hoses @ machine and drain into pan. Remove old valve assembly,take note of what wires go where and disconnect. Remove filler hose from valve. Install new unit in reverse order but using new hose washers and be carefull not to cross thread the plastic threads and only tighten as much as needed to keep from leaking. Have bought from these people before and they are SUPER. Had the correct part in LESS than 24 hrs. and for a reasonable price !! Sam

I did it per the video on line and was a snap.I don't have issue recomending the web site to my freinds who want to do repairs themselves.

I didn't expect a problem, but watched the video anyway, it was right on the money. Make sure to use a new clamp for the hose.

Removed fill hoses, inlet valve cover,valve mounting hardware,hose to tub,unplugged electrical connector.Installed new valve in reverse order.

Studied, diagnosed the issue, looked at symptoms described in ParrtSelect's on line resources, purchased the part. Had it in one day without the need for extra FedEx shipping charges; waspleasantly surprised to see how easy this repair was to make. I then replaced inlet hoses with new stainless steel types. This workhorse pair of of Maytag appliances, constructed in January 1985 will continue to serve for many more years. These are well-built battleships! And PartSelect will be my part source of choice to keep them going!

My nephew followed directions in the repair video. Washer no longer leaks when warm water is specified.

Ordered replacement water inlet valve, switched out within 10 mins and problem solved for less than $50. Maytag design easily allowed for the inlet valve unit to be replaced without accessing interior workings of the washer. The unit is mounted with 3 screws on a removable rear panel where the hot and cold H2O hoses are connected. Very easy! Tested immediately upon completion and was delighted to see that hot, warm and cold water filled the tub extremely fast, the way it worked when purchased new 18 years ago. The web site repair video was key to my success.

Removed two screws , two more on the valve, loosened the hose clamp. Reassembled the same way