A101 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Slipped on belts no tools needed.

We were not sure if the problem was the belts since they were not completely broken or overly worn down, but decided to try to put new ones on given the burning rubber smell and some light smoke coming from beneath the washer when it was on the spin cycle and the drum would not spin. We found some how to videos online and through the part select customer experiences, we ordered the belts and got them within 2 days. We put the new belts on, which is fairly easy and quick to do with the proper tools once you get the front panel of the washer off. The new belts seemed to have done the trick, as the washer began spinning again with no odd sounds or smells once the new belts were installed, and it has been running great so far. I highly recommend ordering from this site, as the parts are the real factory parts and are easy to find an order based on your appliance model. I found the pricing and convenience, as well as knowing the parts would be right and the best quality, to be the best part of this site, as ordering from other online retailers may land you with the wrong parts or kits with parts you don't necessarily need.

I propped up the machine. Turned the water off .took the pump belt off, then took the two hose clamps off. With a bucket and towels on hand for left over water in the hoses, i removed the two hoses. Then removed three screws that held the pump on. Installed the new pump in reverse order.

Tilt washer. Remove old belts. Put in new. Tighten transmission bet and pump belt per YouTube. It works like new now.

key to repair is to watch the video on mounting stem/tub seal as seen thru parts select. However, they use a nice new, clean,sanitized washer that may not reflect a 23 year old washer like mine. They give you the basics and it is invaluable to watch if you have never done this before. I strongly advise you buy a real spanner wrench made for your make. You may never need it again but it makes it much easier. Trying to use a punch or using a dremmel to operate on your large 'nuts' is, well, nuts! Get the wrench, just part of the cost of repair. See ebay. The first thing I noticed different between the video and my real life unit is the water hose connected to the washer, at the top of the tub cover. This did not exist in the video, but it is the way on my unit. So I did not disconnect it, just folded the top out of the way and tied it up. Then of course my real gripe with the video is that I have the old time band around the tub and the barrell, holding them together. They do not mate up very well and are not easy to put back together properly. In fact, installing the stem seals was easy and it fixed the original leak. I might add when you buy the replacement parts, you actually get 3 new parts. I suggest you use all the new parts in the package. You paid for them, you need them. Again the video only talks about replacing the very bottom seal, never mentioning the other parts they sold you in the bag. It is easy to figure out how to replace the other parts, they look like the ones you took off to get to the very bottom seal. Use all the new parts, regardless. So the only real issue is putting the band back on to hold the tub to the drum. We did not get it correct the first time and the unit would not spin, I had the top down too far. You could smell the rubber burning from the drive belt. They forgot to tell us about that!! Bums. So we loosened up the band, raised up the top piece and got it to spin. Of course, we did a large load, filled the water to the highest level allowed and when the unit hit the spin cycle, we got a leak from under the band. Thx video. To fix that we decided to never use the highest water level. So far so good. I can tell you the engineers failed on the design to mate up the cover to the tub. Other than that this can be done by us goobers, just take your time. And good luck. I must also thank my helper, neighbor John . for his added wisdom and support.

Then found agitator shaft was rusted to spin shaft. Worked on that for awhile. Motor then burnt out. I quit and bought new machine. I had ordered a top end seal from you guys. I trashed the machine before your seal arrived. Called you. Nice lady said she would send an E mail so I could return unused seal. That message has not arrived yet.
Pat Wehling

This washer was purchased in the early 1980s and is different from the one in the video and other repair instructions. You can recognize this earlier model by the agitator design. It only has the 4 paddles that start at the bottom and does not have the auger design on the upper part of the spindle as the newer ones do. While I was able to get the agitator to pop off by threading thin ropes under it and using a four-foot board as a lever, that was the end of my successful efforts. Even with the special tool and a five pound hammer, the lock nut would not budge -- even after overnight soaking in WD40. Yes, I did recognize the reverse threading. My next attempt would have been to heat the lock nut with a butane torch, but I gave up at this point and purchased a new washing machine on my way to pick up the torch. Would be curious to know if anyone else has had success with this older model as I saw other differences in the design that suggested that it may not have been compatible with this kit.

Could not complete because sent the wrong part (just a seal instead of the tube) several times, in spite of talking on the phone for hours. Eventually gave up and ordered from another company.

I first removed the front panel of the washer and removed 2 screws holding the top of washer in place. I had to flip the top up. This allowed easy access to the tub. I then removed the agitator by removing the set screw on the lower portion. From there I loosened the mounting securing device by using the nail punch and hammer inside of the tub (it was loosened by turning it clockwise). The tub was now loose and I removed it from the washer. Next I removed the torx set screw and the tapered hub unit (cork on it). It had to be again loosened with the hammer and nail punch and turning it clockwise. This exposed the part that needed to be replaced. I replaced the old with the new and the washer now works great with no leaks! Be sure to clean everything you remove that will be reassembled.

Unhooked water and drain lines, Unplugged electrical. Removed the two phillips screws at the bottom of the front cover. Removed the Front cover. TIpped machine backwards at about a 45 degree angle using a 2x4 to support the machine. Removed the pump belt and the drive belt. Installed the old pump belt and the new drive belt. Loosened the 3 each 5/16" bolts holding the pump mechanism and moved pump to the left. Moved pump to right to tighten pump belt and tightened the left pump bolt. Loosend the one pump bolt and pulled the motor to the left to tighten the drive belt and holding in this position I tightened the pump screws, Pump belt was now looser than the drive belt. Ran washer and it worked perfectly.

Observed source of leak by lying on floor behind washing machine and placing hand in likely spots. Found water injector hose was source. Searched web for instructions to open up washing machine: 2 screws at bottom of front panel, then 2 screws at top inside after removing front panel. Easy after that. Lots of rust and rusty screws and rusty tinnerman nuts; had to grind off one of the screws with dremel tool.

Tilt the washer sideways. Remove belts,Remove front panel, loosen two hoses, loosen three small nuts. Take out old pump and install new new pump vise versa. Video provided by partselect very helpful.

First I removed the two screws to pull off the front panel. I then removed the two screws (1/4 inch head) in the upper front corners. Removed clamp from siphon break and carefully worked off hose. After a couple of failed efforts to put hose on dry I put some o-ring type grease on the barb and it went on easier. The clamp was a bit difficult too but take your time and it will go on. Putting injector end in tub required patients. Reassembly was reverse of above. All good for another 25 years!

Received drain pump by fed ex, put it on in 15 minutes. . . My wife was very happy again. . . .

Received wrong springs for my model had too use combo old spring with the two new (too long) springs to get the tension on the belts. For now it working. Did not contact you due shipping took so long and two delay date change by FedEx ground. I didn't want to go thru another delivery nightmare. Thanks for the time.