LAT8120AAL Maytag Washer - Instructions

My washer is apparently 37 years old. I bought it used in the 90’s and have had to do little or nothing to it repair wise. It started to make a loud squeal/squeak when the spin cycle stopped. I watched a couple videos showing the brake assembly, bearings and belt replacement and was able to find parts. However, one bearing appears to no longer be made (just repacked with heavy duty grease) and the special tool is nonexistent. I read others using a chain clamp vise to remove the brake assembly and bought a 20 inch chain clamp vise and a 3 set variety of vise grip pliers for about $20. They make an 18 inch chain vise but glad I got the 20 inch. I used two vise grip pliers to clamp chain around notch two notches that the specialty tool would normally grab. It was a cumbersome getting in there to whack the pliers with a small sledge hammer so I got a approx 18 inch 2x4 and cut a notch at the end to keep chain vise from digging into bottom of washer and whacked the end of the 2x4. Seemed to work ok and did the same to tighten back after replacing break assembly. Got it out back together and no more squeal.

I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.

I'm a 70 year old woman. I followed all instructions provided by "Steve" from Partselect video. The video was very well presented and allowed me to fix the leaking problem myself. Watch the video...you can do it.

Easy video on Parts Select, then it still wouldn't work. The fuse behind the panel was blown, replaced that. And it was hero dad, I expect the bad water inlet valve blew the fuse.
Good Job, thanks for being there.

The water valve on the cold side was making noise when cold water ran. I removed the screens but did not see a problem. I ordered a new valve and installed. The noise is gone and the water flow is back to normal.

At the time we did not realize the water flow had slowed.

I was lucky to find a youtube video that showed every step. The hardest part was removing the front of the machine only because the screws were a little tough to access. Part replacement was quick and easy. It saved me approx $150.00

All I had to do is tilt the machine to expose the bottom and replace the belts. It was fast, easy and the machine works fine now.

After reading about previous repairs on PartSelect, I figured there was a small hole in the Injector Hose. Ordering online was simple. It took three days to arrive since we really live in the boonies. It was easy to take the defective part off and put the new hose on. Except when the washer began to load, water sprayed everywhere! Huh? I took apart the Air Gap and determined that the one-way valve was put in on the wrong side of the apparatus. It was easy to put it back together right, however, and it worked fine thereafter. Seemed to have been a QC problem when they were assembled. It is working properly now.

unhooked power plug removed 2 top screws tilted topfront panel back removed cracked fuse holder replaced with new fuse holder put top cover back on installed 2 top screws plugged in power cord done!

Order the parts needed the washer working ASAP - Three partsf explain several times what I needed - paid extra for express shipping by Fed Ex
took more time then regular US Mail.
When I receive the parts only received two - one the important parts when to a local appliance parts store while waiting for my shipment and completed the repair.
Waiting for a refund and additional shipping cost -very disappointed have use your company along time - that why both Maytags are having their 40th Birthday.

I thought it was going to be next to impossible to find a replacement part for an older washer. So my first attempt was to try to epoxy the original part, but the epoxy didn't hold up to the stress. I began thinking about what I might need to make a replacement part which was possible but not very practical. Although I dreaded trying to find this part online, I was very surprised and elated to happen upon PartSelect! Oh, by the way, this washer belongs to my daughter and I nave tossed the paper I wrote the model number on, so the model number was entered as the part number, sorry. At any rate, the the part was reasonable priced, and shipping about standard, but I still saved a lot by doing it myself rather than having a repair person for something this simple. Partselect online lookup made it easy to find the model and drawings to help me find the correct part nomenclature. AND, the part was in stock! So I am pleased with how this venture worked out.

Tried the water level control first. didn't fix it.
Then replaced the air tube for tub fill volume.

The thing here is that it didn't have a hole in it nor was it blocked where you couldn't blow through it.
The prolbem was that at the tub end it has a larger diameter and that was nearly filled with softener residue so it changed the air volume.
That reduced air volume caused the air pressure to be wrong to the water level sensor.
My most useful tool was a magnet mount flashligt inside the cabinet so I could see to get the hose back on.

Removed washer tubs inner and outer nut (part # 10 ) on inner was hard to remove and is a reverse thread used hammer to loosen once off removed 1st tub - then removed set screw #17 and then unscrewed mounting s item #29 this again required some hammer tapping to loosen - once off used flat head screwdriver to pry & remove the rubber piece on bottom of outer or 2nd tub -but keep going as the leak will probably be from part #20 tub bearing ( this will save you the time to test and find out it still leaks and have to take apart again after only replacing #29 removed 3 bolts holding tub - disconnected hoses and removed 2nd tub - used rubber hammer to knock out and install #20 tub bearing - reasembled and wow no leaks to cost about $120 - time worked on 3 hrs - only because took apart 2 times - down time on washer 10 days as we didn't order all parts to start with no beer needed but did enjoy a nice red wine - good luck

Water Inlet Valve: Unplugged machine from the AC receptacle!! Disconnected inlet hoses from valve, removed 5/16" screws securing valve to machine rear cover, removed wires from valve, disconnected the fill hose at the valve being careful not to let it fall into the machine, attached the same hose to the new valve along with the wires being careful to make sure they were attached to the right connectors and attached securely, placed the valve into the place where the old one had been and secured it with the aforementioned 5/16" screws, Done!!
Hose: Removed front machine cover by removing two screws at the bottom of the machine, removed to clamps, pulled hose from connections, replaced hose with NEW clamps!! Done!

First I had to hold the balls into the little holes on the side of the lid - one at a time- and tap the plastic ball into the side with a small hammer. I did the same with the other side. Silde the lid to match the holes located on the washing machine - give a little push to make sure that the balls are in place. You have your lid fixed to your machine where you can lift the lid and it will stay up without falling.

Note: If the balls fall out - make sure to tap a little harder so that the balls stay in place.