MAT12PSAGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I was only missing one of the bumpers but that was in pretty poor shape so I replaced them both. It didn't take much to do. Just pressed the bumper into place and Viola! instant gratification.

I followed the others directions and it's important to note that both nuts involed are indeed left handed threads. Also the it's important to know that[at least on my machine] that the set screw on the agitator is a torx headed set srew, not an allen srew. Other than that it was a pretty quick fix.

First unplug the unit. Removed the front panel. Removed the two hex head bolts from under the top at hte front right and left corners. Tip the top back. Unsnap the cover being carefull on the tabs. Loosten the set screw (bolt) on the bottom of the agitator and remove. Unscrew the retaining ring. Remember reverse thread. remove flange under that. lift out inner tub. Loosten the set screw (torx) on seal and unscrew reverse thread also. Remove rubber seal boot. Clean all surfaces and reverse the steps.

I followed an the online video and the repair, my first stem seal repair, went fine. Kudos to PartSelect. The parts arrived in 3 days normal delivery. I saved $500 by not buying a new washer!

After removing the front cover and draining the tub, I replaced the drain pump and the washer works as good as new.

First I removed the front of the washing machine and removed the two bolts that held the top in place. I then replaced the spring. The spring was a little tricky because I had to use a screwdriver to stretch the spring enough to fit.

Pump was eazy to replace the clean up took longer than the fix.

I took the front off by removing the two Phillips head screws at the bottom. I leaned the washer backwards and blocked the front up about 6 - 8 inches. Next I loosened the three screws that hold the pump on. Then remove the belt. Now it is time to get the hoses off by taking the clamps loose. Wiggle the hose and pull them off. You need a small bowel and towels to collect the water in the hoses. The final step is to take out the three screws that you already loosened that hold the pump on. The pump can now be lifted up and removed. Replace the pump with the new one and reverse the procedure.

Actuator spring for the lid switch broke. Removed the lid by prying it from the top of the machine. The lid is secured by two plastic balls on either side. Removed the actuator switch screws and slid the actuator assembly out over the washer drum. Replaced the spring and reassembled the actuator to the machine. Put vaseline on each plastic ball to hold them in place while I snapped the lid back on to the machine top.

Removed access panel on back of machine to remove Air Tube where it connects to wash basin. Removed control panel cover on top of machine and front panel of machine so top could be lifted for easier access to the point where Air Tube plugs in to water level selector switch. Tube is attached at both ends via spring clips. Replaced tube; problem solved. As a note, the old tube was clogged, and once cleaned, the machine functioned normally again. I had already ordered the replacement so I installed it in place of the old tube when it arrived. The new tube is significantly longer but functions perfectly.

I removed 2 Philips head screws from bottom of front cover and removed cover. Tilted washer back and installed a 6' wooden block under washer. removed 3 hex head screws from pump base using my flex shaft nut driver and a 5/16" socket. Removed the 2 hose clamps from pump and lifted pump out. Pump appeared to be ok but checking by turning the pulley I found the impeller did not turn, shaft key must be sheared. The new pump came the next day at 2:00 PM and it was an exact replacement. Installed and up and running in about 15 min. Working fine.

Remove front panel removed two screws holding top down, then removed plastic tube cover, removed balancer to make more room to work. Next removed set screw holding dasher, next remove spanner nut that held inner tube shield. Tthen lifted inner tube out of washer, now I removed the stem hold down and seal important clean area where seal touches the tube nowuse little water to wet new seal pt new seal ln careful not to damage simply reverse removal step and put the unit back together

After watching the repair on the video, I was confident that I could complete this job. The only tool I did not have was the special wrench for the retaining nut. I would recommend changing out the Bearing along with the seal. Due to the proximity of the seal, the bearing will most likely fail about the same time. The inner and outer tubs in my machine needed a thorough cleaning unlike the pre-cleaned demonstration washer in the video. A cheap plastic putty knife was great tool to scrape off the 14 years of detergent and lime sludge on the tubs. Allow yourself additional time to get everything clean as you disassemble the washer. The only snag I ran into was removing the corroded aluminum retaining nut. A cold chisel and hammer cut it off without much problem and a new nut was supplied with the kit. My old Maytag washer is now running like a champ and with no leaks.

I followed the directions given me from parts select. I used the instructional YouTube videos. Both gave me the courage to do this project myself. The 35 year old wash machine works perfect !

Once i figured out it would not drain i pulled the front panel off and pulled all the drain hoses off to be sure nothing was clogged there or in the pump itself. It was not so then i checked the drive belt and it was ok. Next i pulled off the drain pump and everything looked to be ok, it was not froze up and it would spin just fine. I got a screwdriver and held the splines inside the pump while trying to turn the pulley and thats when i found that the propeller was spinning on the shaft and under a load would only spin the shaft and not the propeller inside the pump. Got online ordered new pump and it works great now.