SAV4710AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

took the belt out and took the thing out and fixed then put it back.

1. unplug unit 2. remove front access plate 3. disconnect tension spring on drive belt 4. remove 4 motor mount screws 5. disconnect intake and return lines from pump using a pliers to decompress compression rings and sliding lines off. 6. Manipulate motor and loosen drive belt from bottom of tub and let it hang. 7. tilt motor bottom out exposing pump and remove 3 screws using TREX head driver and remove pump. 8. install new pump

Removed broken piece and put on new part.

MAYTAG SAV2655AWW Series 10 Washer Tub Bearing and Seal Replacement

1. Unplug washer power cord and turn off water supply to hoses.

2. Remove lower front panel, 2 5/16” hex head screws at bottom of panel.

3. Remove front upper panel, 2 5/16” hex head screws at bottom corners of panel.
4. Slide washer out from wall far enough to provide clearance to lift washer top panel and control head.

5. Remove 2 5/16” hex head screws securing washer lid panel to side panels and lift lid.

6. Pull fabric softener dispenser from agitator, pulls off easily.

7.Remove agitator upper section, pulls off easily. Remove ½” hex head retainer bolt from inside agitator.

8.Remove agitator base section, pops up, place fingers under each side and pull up gently.

9. Remove tub top ring by pushing down at each clip and then prying out lightly to disengage clip, 8 total. Orientation for reassembly is done by referencing the double tabbed clip on the right side of the outer tub.

10. Remove inner tub retainer bolts, 4, ½” hex head. Clean off mounting hub to expose 4 pry slots located exactly opposite each other. Using wide flat head screw driver carefully and evenly pry up inner tub off of aluminum mounting hub. Once tub is ¼” or more raised a wider blade pry bar will help prevent cracking or breaking the inner tub.

11. Remove plastic seal cup from transmission shaft by turning it counter clockwise with a medium to large pair of water pump pliers.

12. Remove inner tub aluminum mounting hub by using a hammer and broad flat faced punch or drift and driving the hub counterclockwise. You can be aggressive about this as kit comes with a new hub. It will loosen at some point and can be unscrewed by hand. The transmission shaft threaded section must be thoroughly cleaned to remove all sealers or debris from the threads or the new hub in the kit will not thread on correctly and will be excessively tight. Lightly place anti-seize lubricant on the threads before putting on new hub and seal cup.

13. Remove water pump hose from outer tub. Then remove second hose from water pump.

14. Remove “Fill Sensor” hose. Back left quadrant of outer tub, pulls off easily.

15. Remove 6 tub ( 3 pairs) stabilizer springs, plus 1 spring in very back. Try to watch how back one connects to tub mount. If you miss it hooking it back up is pretty straight forward. Only secures one way. Channel locks or vise grips work best for working with springs.

16. Disconnect wire harness from motor drive assembly and tub frame mount.

17. Pull tub and motor drive assembly out of washer cabinet. Lift carefully by shaft and tub mount frame.

18. Remove 6 outer tub retainer bolts and 2 upper motor frame bolts.

19. Lift tub off motor frame and set on its side carefully to prevent damage to “Fill Sensor” back left side.Use a slide tool to pop bearing assembly out of tub bottom.

20. Clean the tub, bearing mount surface, remove all grease from shaft and shaft spline sealing O-ring.

21. Wet new bearing seating surface and tub mounting surface lightly with water and press in new bearing by hand.

22. Clean both inner and outer tubs inside and out thoroughly. Clean hub mounting threads on motor shaft thoroughly.
There can be no residue of any kind in those threads or new hub will be difficult to impossible to screw on without damaging it.

23. Reverse dis-assembly procedure to reassemble machine. Recommend replacing drive belt and idler pulley if found to be excessively worn or damaged. If brake assembly is heavily worn or pads are cracked this is the time to replace those as well.

Part received was correct (5 days ARO). Removed motor assy from unit (left wires connected). Found drive belt was also worn out & obtained a new one locally. Seperated old pump from rusted motor shaft using 2 screwdrivers. Had to use a file to lightly "polish" rust off motor shaft to install new pump. On-line parts diagram helpful in getting belt properly alinged to idler pully. Machine now runs smoothly, dosn't leak and sound like new. Wife happy (me too)!

Remove the lower access door in the front of the machine. Then I tipped the washer back against the wall to access everything. The pads are alittle hard to push in between the washer pulley disc. So I first pushed in an old broken brake pad off to the side, then was able to push in the new pads. The rear pad is the hardest and I had to release some of the front tub springs and remove the pump hose for access. Overall it went pretty smooth. Thanks for your help!Tim

Ipulled the front panel off and found that the brake pads had broken into pieces, ordered new pads. Two of the pads were accessed from the front of the machine and were relatively easy to replace by removing the two attaching bolts, spreading gap in area that they fit into with a plastic pry tool. I gained access to the third pad by removing the punch-outs on the side of the machine (circular). If I had not had these prepuched pieces available to me I would have simply cut an access hole in the rear of the machine with a jig saw, (who will ever see it).

I disconnected the water supply line to washer and moved washer into open area. I removed the front panel of washer to gain access to drain hose. I removed hose and reinstalled new hose. I did turn the hose holder inside the washer as it allowed the old hose to rub against the housing support of the washer causing the hose to leak. I was glad that I read the article that someone mentioned in their repair. The new hose was somewhat difficult to maneuver through the back of the washer and through the part that held the hose; otherwise, it was rather easy. Thanks for the feed back on your web page.

Very easy repair. Removed the lower front panel of the washing machine (two screws) with nutdriver.

Removed hose clamp with pliers. Removed hose from machine. Replaced hose and ran thru a full cycle to check for leaks.

No leaks, back in business in under an hour. This time includes going out to garage and gather the two tools needed for the job and cleaning up the water that came out of the hose during the removal process.

First removed all screws with a nutdriver then lifted the body from the base. Removed the two hoses at the pump (be ready for excess water). Removed the 9/16 bolts (4) to drop the motor assy. I also took off the two front balance springs to have easy access. I at this point was able to remove the pulley and put new belt & pump on the motor. Remember to watch carefully to align belt. removing the idler pulley is a no brainer. Took about 45mins. to complete, a no pro job!!

I found about 2-3 baby socks stuck in the pump and couldnt remove them so I had to replace the part. Unfortunately I found this website AFTER I took the bad pump off. So I ended up removing the lower front panel and then flipping the washer upside down and removing the bottom of the washer and taking the pump off because I couldnt see any other way to get it off. The new pump arrived very quickly and I put it back on and put the bottom panel back on and flipped the washer back right side up. I certainly made it more difficult then it had to be but it was still fairly easy. Now I see all I needed to do was remove the motor to get the pump off. Oh well.

I takened the 4 bolts out of the motor assimbley, and droped the whole thing out where I could see the screws that held the water pump on, and I took them out, and lifted the water pump, and put the belt in place, and the new pully on , and the new spring in place. Then I reversed the proseger.
It works like a new one.

After turning on the machine set to the spin cycle and acertaining that the problem was not a switch or the motor the lower cover was removed (Two sheet metal hex head screws)with appropriate socket. The failure of the belt was self-evident, having sprayed itself in granuals, the belt itself having parted with easy removal.
A search of the internet produced the order for drive belt, which arrived in a timely manner trough Fedex.

Replacing the belt was the most labor intensive part of the process. No mirror being available a CD was placed in the base of the machine in order to view what fasteners (Three torx head) fasened the pump to the motor assembly. Removal of the pump was necessary in order to replace the belt.

The removal of the fasteners required that three holes (120* angular spacing, 1/2" diameter, located on the pump fastener bosses) be drilled in the machine base in order to
remove and replace. This required setting the machine on its side. (Tell the engineers to put an inspection plate there in order to negate having to drill the holes. Thankx.) Pump assembly was lowered off driveshaft and belt replaced. Tensioner set on belt after pump assembly fit to driveshaft and torx fasteners replaced and tightened. Machine powered up, checked for function. In use. Lower cover replaced. I'll be using your buisness for parts again, no doubt.

Removed 6 screws from the metal plate on the back of the washing machine. Removed the dial from the front of the timer. You have to pop the center peice of the dial out which then frees the rest of the dial to be removed. Removed one screw from the timer back of the timer. Slid the timer out and unplugged it. Installed new timer.

Pop the cap off the agitator/auger no tools needed. Once removed select a socket and a socket exstension. remove the screw amd pull off the part. Make sure to save the washer that may be still attached to the inside of the agitator. install the new agitator using the existing screw and washer. Takes about 15 minutes.