MAV6300AWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

very easy replacement. was probably broken for a year and only took five minutes to replace. Can't believe we waited so long!

unplug cord,disconnect hoses,pop front clips,swing up the top,unplug wires,unscrew bracket with valve,replace valve and reinstall.I did replace hinge because I pulled up to hard the top.

Removed front panel also right side panel to get to the springs. Used vise grips to extend springs and used coins to keep springs open for replacing.

Parts needed: Snubber Ring and 6 Springs (don't put the old springs back)
Unlug the AC cord, open the top from the front it snaps open with a little force and hinges on the back, remove the 2 screws on the front cover and take it off, tip the washer and remove the belt, take off the pump hose from the back It was not necessary to remove the back cover. Remove the little hose going to the basket from the control module. Remove the 6 springs and lift the complete drum out of the waser and turn it upside down. You can see the plastic snubber ring that is worn, loosen the 6 screws just enough to get the old ring out and the new one in. WARNING: DO NOT TAKE THE SCREWS ALL THE WAY OUT OR THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY WILL RELEASE AND A SPECIAL TOOL IS NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK. Seriously! Install the new ring, center and tighten the screws. Put the tub back in. I found it handy to support the tub with a 2x3 to get the springs back in. Connect hoses back up. It really isn’t that bad, a couple of scraped knuckles.

I took the washer into the garage, removed access panel from back. Spun drive belt. This located the trouble with the pump. I removed pump with three sheet metal screws and hose clamps. Upon delivery, I notice the two pumps were not identicle. I called Cust Serv. They assured the difference was ok. I installed the new pump with three screw, put the belt and panel and hoses on and ran a test load of my junk clothing. No trouble.

The installation was extremely easy - videos sure helped. I would recommend this site for appliance parts - parts came ahead of schedule.

After just over ten years of use (purchased in early 2001), my Maytag Atlantis started making an awful noise during the spin cycle. The noise was very loud and sounded like metal grating on metal. Looking through posts on partselect.com, I identified the problem as the drain pump and pulley. Looking under the washer I could see that where the pulley connected to the drain pump the metal was starting to fall apart. I ordered the drain pump with pulley and a washer belt. The belt didn't look overly worn, but I figured now was a good time to replace it. The parts arrived within a couple days, faster than I expected. I opened the top of the washer by inserting a putty knife about an inch in on each side to release the top which then easily clam-shells back. I removed the front panel by removing two screws in each corner. Using a few blocks of wood, I propped the washer up in the front so I could remove the drive belt. The motor is spring-loaded and is easily moved to allow for belt removal. Then I removed the two tubes that connect to the drain pump. The drain pump was quickly removed from the washer; only three nuts hold it in place. The new pump/pulley went back into place using the same three nuts. After reconnected the two tubes to the pump, I installed the new drive belt. I put the front panel back on, and seated the top back in place. Anxiously I watched and listened as the washer cycled through a load. To my relief, the problem was fixed. All told, it probably took about 15 minutes to make the repair, and with any luck I’ll get another ten years out of this washer.

We had a repair guy come in and he said fixing the pump would cost at least 250. I called my dad and he walked me through it over the phone. I took off the back of the washer, and laid the washer on it's side. I then had to take a break as I had flooded my kitchen. (Lay the washer at an angle.) The belt was taken off by the repair guy. I then undid the hoses, taking the clips off with pliers. Next I screwed the new pump in, and put the hoses back on. FInally I took the belt and stretched over the two small pullies, and then pulled it to the bottom of the big pullie and started spinning it until it wrapped itself all the way around. It wouldn't have taken over an hour but I had a baby who needed me ever couple of minutes.

Removed front and rear panels, removed belt, removed old springs, disconnected bleach and pump lines from tub and lifted entire tub/transmission assmebly from washer. Replaced snubber ring at bottom of transmission assembly by backing off screws just enough to allow old ring to be removed and new one to be installed. Replaced pump assembly by removing drain hose and three bolts. Installed in reverse order. Placed tub/trans assembly back into washer and installed new springs using vise grip pliers. Reconnected bleach line and pump lines to tub. Reinstalled fron and rear panels. Installed new belt on bottom side of washer. Piece of cake.

disconected water lines unplug power and took drain pipe off, used putty knife to open top of washer and pulled off front removed pannel off back pannel, disconnected water level tube,using vise grips took off springs and pulled tb out used 5/16 socket to loosen screws just enough to pull snubber ring out replaced with new one reversed prosses in putting it back to geather

Followed directions from video on your site. It was very helpful. The snubber ring fixed the problem.

figured out how to open the top of the washer(Two small tabs I pushed in with a putty knife. Looked for the area it was leaking. Slide the hose clamps off with a pliers and pull out hose.

Put clamps on new hose, replace hose and slide clamps to ends to seal the connections

1 I opened the top of the washer found the top plastic rim piece broken due to the fact that it cracked while unbalanced one time. Which made it leak which ate away the rubber seal . The parts were here fast and they were the right ones. Great job and I will tell everyone about you thank you verry much.

Turned off the water supply. Removed clothing and bailed out water fro tub. Removed back access panel. Turned washer over to access the bottom and removed drive belt by turning the large pulley attached the drum while pulling the belt over the pulley. Next remove the two hoses attached to the pump, remove the screws holding the pump on and remove the pump. Replace the pump by reversing the procedure, as for replacing the drive belt, place the belt on the motor and pump first and start it on the larger pulley and hold it on while you turn the pulley, it will pull the motor adjustment as you turn and when fully in the pulley it will be properly adjusted. Then replace the access panel, turn the washer upright, push back in place, turn on the water supply and replace the drain hose. Back in business. For me, while I was waiting for the new pump to arrive, I took the time to remove the agitator and tub and give it a good cleaning inside and out, but that's me.

Pump is readily accessible at the back of the machine by taking off the access cover. First step is to disconnect power and remove drive belt off tub pulley which is the largest in the center - the takeup is in the drive motor mount but it seems easier to turn the larger pulley and wind the belt off. There are three 3/8 hex mount screws fastening the pump to the washer base and two hose spring clamps attaching the tub drain hose and outlet drain hose to the pump. Follow the directions in the utube video which is the best (most others don't give detailed directions and best method). The only caution I would give is that there is some water in the drain hoses so be prepared to mop it up with sponge and bucket or have some towels available. Install new pump (loose assemble two visible screws to locate pump and then loose assemble far side blind screw and tighten all 3),replace hoses snug to stops and assemble clamps, replace access panel and replace drive belt and plug washer back in.