MAT10DAABL Maytag Washer - Instructions

all went well until testing. tub level did not shut the water off, caused a spill

Top came off quickly with socket wrench. Removed gasket in about a minute. Spent 45 minutes getting grime ( soap and lime) off of top. Took five minutes to replace gasket.

Haven't been able to get front back on. Clips go on side rather than top. Found missing clip for which new one was purchased in transmission. Still haven't gotten front to stay on. Clips keep springing out.

Followed the instructions on-line. Pulled the washer out from the wall, tipped it back about 45 deg. & removed the two philips screws as the base of the front of the washer.Removed the old belts which showed little wear, disconnected the hoses from the pump. Replaced the pump which was held in by only 3 nut-head screws, attached the belts & adjusted the tesnion as described on the website.

Repair not that complicated. Remove front, lean top back, remove agitator, remove special nut, remove inner tub, remove seal. Clean shaft and seal surfaces. It is highly recommended to the spanner wrench to remove the special nut. It appears one can do it with a punch and hammer, but the nut is too tight, and corroded from years of water exposure. I believe part number is TJ90TB123A, about $15. Watch the video on this web site, very good.

watch the video and it was very simple replace belts like they show on the video. lay the washer on it back and the belts was visabile. removed the small belt and then removed large belt, and replace the large belt and small belt. i used no tools. that because i lay the machine on it back.

I removed the two screws holding the switch and removed it from the machine. I then removed the broken spring and replaced it with the new one sent to me from partselect.com. I reinstalled the repaired switch and turned on the machine. It was easy as that and it works great. PartSelect.com is the best.

First I removed the two screws that held the front washer panel in place. Then I removed the two bolts that held the top on the washer. I then had to remove the four screws that held the top panel with the electrical parts in place in order to obtain access to the inside area where the screw was that held the fill injector was located. I next removed the screw that held the fill injector unit in place. I then pulled on the tab that held it in place and moved unit into a better place to replace the fill injector. I had previously cut the hose clamp during my investigation of the problem and replaced it with a pressure clamp. I then unscrewed the clamp, removed the bad fill injector and replaced with new fill injector. I then reversed the entire process to reassemble. The whole process turned out to be easier than I thought! The hardest part was diagnosing the problem in the first place.

r&r

Followed the first guys directions.
remove front
lift top
remove agitator
remove locking nut clockwise
remove inner tub
remove Mounting S loosen set screw and clockwise also
clean well
replace boot as shown in tip in sheet
push boot on completely

I opend up the housing, found the broken part, ordered it, installed it, and had the washer working within 4 days of the initial break down.
Saved a lot of money over a service call, as well as time, and trips to the laundramat.

Chalked the transmission with a pipe wrench. Removed the brake with grabbing on to it with vicegrips and hammered on the vicegrips to remove the brake. The new brake spun on after the first two brakes didn't. Working great now!

Based on info from website, sounded like it was the Belt Kit that needed replacing. While waiting for the Belt Kit, decided to take the Agitator out to have a "look-see". OMG! There was liquid fabric softener gunk so thick in, around, underneath the agitator that the unit could not get traction. The burning smell was the gunk getting hot as the agitator tried to work. After a thorough cleaning of the agitator and anything relating to it's ability to agitate, my Maytag is performing like it was brand new! I'm keeping the Belt Kit, because my washer is older and I've heard from friends and family that have purchased the new water restricted units, absolutely hate them; like the "low flow" toilets, instead of flushing once, you now have to flush 5 times. They are washing more smaller loads and double rinsing each load to get their clothes clean and free of residue. I'm a 69 year old woman who finds your website and your marvelous contributors an absolute Blessing!

First I took the door off. Undid two screws that held the top door on. Took the tub out. Make sure you have a spanner wrench. So much easier.

Removed 2 Philip screws from bottom front panel. The belts came as a set, so pay attention to the belt sizes when replacing them. Have had the new belts installed now for a week or longer with no issues. Looks like a good fix.

Removed wet close and removed 99% of all the water with a simple sifon hose and sponges. Diconnected electric and water supply hoses. Layed washer on its back. Removed front of washer. Disconnected hoses to water pump and checked for blockage. None. You need to capture the risidual water from the hoses and the pump if you are working in an area that cannot tolerate spills. Pulled pump out (three screws) put a screwdriver and blocked the pump impellar and rotate the punps pully. Pully rotaded freely so the pump is bad. The two belts were pretty worn out so I replaced them also. Hooked up everything in reverse. Adjusted the tension of the belts as required. The drive belt for the pump should be pinched to 1/4". Checked the moter glides also. Put everything back together, checked for leaks and did a load of wash. Everything good. Dismanteling and diagnostics and clean up took about 30'. Assembly took another 30'. Purts fit perfectly.