LAT9400ABE Maytag Washer - Instructions

Your website is wonderful. I read another womans account of how she fixed her machine and then I just followed her instructions...how cool is that!

Of couse, turn off water to machine. Remove hoses. Then had to open unit - easiest by popping spring in with flat blade in seam under lid. Screws holding valve are on back of unit at hose inlet, so simply unscrew to remove failed valve. Clamp holding hose onto valve is crimped with pliers to remove. I suggest spending the 50 cents a hardware store for new clamp, as my reattachment of existing clamp onto new value leaked. There are four electrical connectors, so remember order in which you removed them and return to same on new unit.
Reassemble in reverse (hoses, water on) and your all set.
Pretty easy: I figure it would be about $200 for service guy and part. My cost: $30 and 30 minutes

checked lid switch ,plunger stuck in the in position 1 amp fuse blown took switch apart it was full of green copper corrosion stopping plunger from moving correctly. replaced switch and fuse and wow washer works

followed instructions elsewhere here. Procedure went flawlessly
To undo the nut I used a 1 1/2 " long x 5/16 bolt to hammer on.

STILL LEAKS. Needed PS2347235 =Tub Bearing Kit . Going back in...
THe remainder concerns the bearing procedure:
The 3 bolts holding the outer tub to the legs have rectangular washers. Those are not totally flat, and are marked for outside, top ... so pay attention. It might make a difference.
Outer tub came off the rubber bushing. Took some pulling the bushing off the shaft, and removing the sleeve bearing was a challenge at first, it would not move on the transmission shaft. Soaked with wd40 overnight. Drove it off with cold chisel (driving upward). For re-attaching the 3 tub bolts I used a ratchet tiedown strap to pull the 3 legs together to get enough thread to start, what with all those washers and things.
Ran spin cycle dry for 3 minutes as per instructions before filling with water. Success.

Removed control faceplate (2 screws on top edge and flip forward). Removed wires one-by-one with needle-nose pliers and replaced on new switch to avoid mixing the connections. Removed screw and replaced switch then, replaced screw. Moderately tightened new part and operated lid. Listened for click open and closed. Adjusted switch position for proper "click". Tightened screw and replaced front panel. Done in about 10 minutes.

I started by unplugging the washing machine from the wall outlet. I then proceded to remove four screws from the top of the control panel. After removing the screws I put two flat head screwdrivers on each side of the lid and applied force to pry the lid from the ball joints holding it in place. This was the part that was the most difficult in my opinion. After the lid was off, I removed the bolt that was holding the fuse switch in place and removed that from the slots. Next I unscrewed the two screws on opposite sides of the switch head where it makes the contact with the lid. This allows you to remove the switch assembly out of the unit. Once the assembly was out, I assembled pieced the new parts together by looking at the old parts. Then, I placed the new assembly back in the unit. Be careful when you put in the new assembly that you test the switch and make sure you hear the "Click" from the switch. After that I reversed all the steps and put the unit back together.

Thirty year old Maytag washer. Remove two screws at bottom of front panel with Philips screw driver. Hinge panel up to disconnect front panel from top of machine. Tilt washer back against wall to gain access to pulley at underside of washer. Then remove Philips head screw from bottom of center shaft. Remove bevel washer with screw. Remove stop block from end of center shaft and wind the pulley off center shaft. Clean center shaft of any debris and lightly coat with grease. Install belt on new pulley and motor, wind new pulley on center shaft. Replace stop block, washer, screw, and front cover.

This was a Maytag A490 of indeterminate age. Unscrewed 2 lower screws holding on front cover, removed cover. Used socket wrench to remove 2 screws holding top cover down, lifted top cover, removed old injector, replaced. The new injector didn't exactly match the shape of the old one and the lid wouldn't close. So I had to cut off some of the plastic shroud that came on the new one (didn't cut easily but I used a utility knife - BE CAREFUL). Afterwards, went in smoothly.

Remove frt cover to confirm leaks. Removed clamps and installed new hoses. Run washer to confirm repair. Washer is 58 years old and costs are less then 50.00 to fix every 4 years

It should have been extremely easy, but it was a little difficult because my laundry room is very small and I had extremely limited space to work in and also had limited lighting. However, after taking many minutes to strategically plan how to maneuver in the tiny space, I was able to loosen the giant clamp on the hose inside the washer and attach the new hose! It worked like a charm! My 25 year old Maytag is working again! The part came in a bag certified as a genuine Whirlpool part and looked exactly like the old one! No complaints! The online installation videos are wonderful!

This is for replacement of the complete injector hose kit, item number PS11738785. (1) Run spin cycle to drain any water from the tub. (2) Unplug machine and pull out from wall about 6". It is not necessary to disconnect supply or drain hoses from the wall. (3) Remove two screws at bottom of front panel, swing panel out until it comes loose at the top; set aside. (4)Disconnect the top end of the fabric softener tube from the filler port in the lid. If you let this drop, a small amount of water may drain out. (5) Remove two screws inside the top front corners holding the top to the sides. Raise the top panel on its rear hinges; it will lean back out of the way and remain attached. You can now see the s-shaped injector hose that connects the water valve to the top of the tub, with a small clear plastic box in the middle that contains the air gap tube. You may be able to replace just the small air gap tube inside that box, about 3" long, by disconnecting the front section of the hose from the plastic box - I've done that successfully several times before, but this time the upstream hose was eroded inside and still allowed leakage after replacing the air gap tube, so I ordered and replaced the whole injector hose kit. (7) Remove one screw attaching the plastic box to the side panel. (8) Disconnect the upstream end of the hose from the valve body. You may need to replace the hose clamp there, which doesn't come with the kit. (9) The downstream end of the hose is held in the top rim of the tub by a plastic end fitting; turn the entire hose assembly clockwise - toward your right - about 90 degrees, and lift it out of the hole, and discard. (10) Reverse that step with the new hose; push the fitting down into the hole [it only fits one way, like a car's radiator cap] and rotate the assembly counter-clockwise. (11) Clamp the upstream end of the hose to the valve body, do not over-tighten and cut the hose. (12) Fasten the plastic box to the top of the side panel with the screw from step 7. (13) Lower the top panel into place and reattach the fabric softener hose to the filler port. (14) Plug in and run a brief fill cycle to test for leaks. If OK, run spin cycle to dump water and reduce weight of machine. (15) Reattach top panel at top two corners. (16) Reinstall front panel; holding the bottom out at a 45 degree angle, slide the top brackets under the front edge of the top panel, swing down, reinstall two screws at the bottom corners.

I first removed the 2 screws at the bottom of the front panel. The front panel then pulls up and off. I then removed 2 hex head screws with a small socket, which kept the top attached to the two side panels. I then lifted the top and kept it propped up. I removed the internal drain hose from the siphon break on the inside of the back panel. I removed the 4 screws on the back panel that keeps the siphon break in place. I removed it and screwed in the new one. I re-attached the drain hose to the new part. I partially filled the tub and watched it drain with the lid still upright. No more leaks. The rubber seal in the siphon break had rotted.

Hardest part was figuring out how to access the internals (not through the back or the top) It turns out there are two screws on the lower front of the machine, not easily found, which when removed allow the front panel of the machine to swing to front and out of the way allowing full access to the internals from the front. The water was comming from one of two water pump hoses. The hose was held in place with 1" hose clamps and was easily changed out.

Removed top. Removed agitator and tubs . Replaced seals and reassembled.

Remove front panel. Then remove top of washer, two bolts at front of top. Then remove two bolts that hold switch assembly to top on right side of top. Switch gets pried out. It just sits in with small pins holding it in place. Wire connectors hold very tight. Install is reverse.