MAH21PDA3W Maytag Washer - Instructions

i removed the door,placed it on the kitchen tabel and removed 8 screws that hold the innerpart to the outer part and exchanged parts . there was a spring and a vent piece that snap on and off too. then i reinstalled the door and ran a load to check for leaks and there were none it was very easy but the best part of the repair was that i ordered the part on saturday nite and recieved it on monday , part select .com i thank you for your excellent service.......

*** MY REPAIR STORY ***

*** Rule #1: READ THE OTHER STORIES FIRST! ***

The best tip was supplied by the guy that used a piece of good twine/string to help him reconnect the inner seal cable and spring assembly; the whole business of using a buddy to do so is a lot of hooey. Save yourself the aggravation of using your wife, kid or other mechanically-declined individual, and use the string trick. It is still a royal pain, but it is far superior with only one person, using the unbeatable mechanical advantage that the string gives you. I used a piece of good waxed poly twine; I tied it to a convenient hole near the front right side corner of the machine, and then threaded it throught the spring and pulled it with some good pliers in order to stretch the spring enough to re-engage the other loop of the inner seal cable, using needle nose pliers. Of course, it took about four shots to get it right, but I was particularly anal about getting the cable ends in their originally-installed orientation. In retrospect, it ought not make too much of a difference, as long as you keep the spring near the top of the drum and respect the placement of the cable: make sure it is fully in its recess in the seal, all the way 'round. Additionally, pay close attention to the drain hose attachment and outer seal installation; you don't want any more leaks. I have strong fingers so it was a snap, and there are both molded recesses, arrows and "tits" along the seal edges that correspond to the outline of the machine's mating surfaces. Please take the time to push in all the lugs all the way all around in all positions; your floor's dryness is depending on you. As far as the inner seal cable/spring situation goes, be aware that any slight failure to get it right will likely cause a "domino effect" that will necessitate that you to reinstall the seal along its entire periphery, on both inner and outer sides... hold onto that cable, and watch as you tension the spring... it will cause the inner seal to walk off the drum if you aren't paying attention, and you will not be able to recover the perfect position you had at first. In honesty, that is the only "difficult" part of the job. Ensure you've had ample food & drink before you undertake seal replacement ( and not alcoholic drink, either... ) !

As with all jobs of this type, the end was far better than the beginning... the machine doesn't spew water out onto the floor anymore, and helped reinforce my claim to the "most useful" Family Member status! lol My wife was nice to me for almost a week afterwards... your mileage may vary.

PartSelect.com, thank you so much for not only the right part at the right price delivered fast, but also the forum where others could report their repair experiences in order to give a good heads up to those contemplating this repair job. Super site, super business, would definitely use again. A+

Regards,

Glenn Buononato

First I sent the local repair man away. I recieved much better advice from this forum. Partselect saved me literally hundreds of dollars. The local repair man was headed in the totally wrong direction.

After identifying the problem with the online partselect repair forum I ordered the part. It was in stock and delivered the next day.(local dealer needed 2 weeks to get the same part) The repair was fairly easy. The pressure switch sits on top of the water manifold for the pump. Removing the old pressure switch required disconnecting the connector and then pulling it free from the snap clip on the backside of the switch. After taking out the old switch I took off the pipe boot that the pressure swich inlet tube seats into. This pipe connects directly to the drain hose that runs into the manifold. I would recommend this to make sure this pipe is not clogged. The pipe needed to be cleaned as a plug of old detergent was totally blocking the pipe.( In fact this was probably the cause of the problem as no water could make it to the actual pressure switch. I had already ordered the new swith so I installed it anyway.) After cleaning out the pipe I put the boot and retaining clip back over the top of the pipe. This was the most difficult part of the repair. It took some time as the clip is very difficult to replace. From there it was just snaping the new switch into place, plugging in the connector and it was done. After putting the front washer cover back in place it was ready to go.

First, I removed the drum. Removed the spinner support. Removed old seals. Reinstalled new spinner support. Reinstalled pulley and belt. Reinstalled drum. Reinstalled machine covers.

Removed the front panel and took out the old control board, which had a burnt spot on it. Removed back panel and took out the old motor. Put in the new motor and then the new control panel. Runs perfect.

Thanks to all the others who gave detailed information I was able to replace the front & rear bearings and front seal. I must say it was a time comsuming job but at least I am alot clearer on the quality of clothes washing machines. I do believe I could give a manufacturer / designer some design points after working on this Maytag Neptune. I was able to knock out the bearing shaft that held the stainless perforated tumbler inside the plastic tub/drum by using a #3 LB hammer I reinstalled the old screw in the shaft which held the plastic pully on because this would keep the end of the shaft from being damaged. After several blows it started moving I was afraid I might damage the plastic drum but fortunately no damage was done to it. After removing the stainless steel perforated tumbler here is where it really got interesting. The Hub that held the old seal was shot! pretty much deteorated from corosion it seems. Here is where I could significantly help a manufactured/designer out The bearing/seal hub should have been made out of stainless instead of Pot metal/ aluminum or whatever they made it from. After much cleaning with a small wire brush and vacuming all the debree out of the Tub I didn't have much hub left to install the new seal. Also the three armed Spinner was very coroaded it attaches to the back of the stainless tumbler I removed it from the stainless tumbler and wire brushed it the back side was full of crud, it looked like left over washing powder or soap and Corosion debree it was a job just cleaning it up. I pressed on and on though replacing both bearings front and rear. Thanks to another person who explained the easy way to remove the bearings and race I was able to do so without removing the Drum/Tub as others stated they had to do. The Dremmel and a few Cutter blades did the trick I cut a wide V notch in the bearings and the bearings fell out I then cut through the bearing race being careful not to cut too deeply although if you did slightly cut beyond the race it really wouldn't matter because the front seal will keep it from leaking anyway. Anyway when I cut through the race it made a ping sound and the race pulled away and fell right out of the HuB. The front & rear bearings a definately serviceable and it doesn't have to be a beat/bang ordeal. after cleaning up the hub I tapped the new bearings in place and discarded the metal spacer that went inside the middle of hub. I then brainstormed on how I could install the new Lip Seal upgrade and then it dawned on me that since the inner Hub that holds the seal was so far gone and only enough left to barely hold the new seal in I remembered the ole saying Don't Discard just use JB Stick or JB Quick I used JB Stick to fill in around the new seal because it is supposed to bond to metal and it did just that I pressed the putty in quickly before it hardened bringing it out even with the plastic drum where the origional hub should have been and made the repair to the deteriorated Hub so that the Seal would stay in place it Worked! This Maytag Neptune was given to me by my mother in-law she did not want to wait on the repair after I tried to previously repair the problem with it I just did not delv deeply enough into the problem with this washingmachine at first. I previously removed both Pumps thinking they were not pumping all the water out because the Towels especially were staying soaked. Both the pumps were nasty with alot of debree inside of them now I know that because of the deteriorated Seal Hub on the inside had done the dirty work. The Pumps can be easily taken apart only a few screws and the plastic impeller can be gently pried off also that is where I found alot of particles from the deteoriated Seal Hub I then reinstalled the pumps and they worked fine pumped out the water. Then that is when I noticed it wasn't cycling properly also Ha Ha I thought to myself what else could possibly be wrong with this washing machine? Thanks to Parts Select site I wa

The inner door panel was damaged by something getting caught in between it and the tub wearing a hole in the plastic.
Remove door hinges.
Remove screws on sides(2 on each hinge)and 4 on otherside and 2 on bottom.
Pull inner door panel (plastic) out.
Remove doorlatch by flipping up center tab and squeezing sides together.
Remove metal tabs by tilting up the backside and tilting down the front (screw hole side) and pulling through the back.

Reverse for reassembly - relatively easy.

first i follow the instruction come with parts in box...and replace easy this the best place to buy parts for all home appliance...thanks

I found your site where other people worked on their washers . I removed the front & rear panels. at the front I found that removing the rubber tub seal was easy, then I removed the 3 agitaters that cover the nuts that hold the tub to the support drive shaft ,I saved the plastic shims nuts & washers then removed the tub,I removed the drive wheel, I put the bolt & washers back in the shaft end & knocked it out with a 1lb hammer.I removed the motor and all the hoses also the front & rear WeightsI left the switches connected to the wires, for everything I removed including screws I taped them all to the parts that they camefrom .Then I knocked out the rear bearing with a 8" long 1/2'dia.piece of steel rod taking care to drive evenly around the circomference of the bearing. the front bearing was in 2 pieces with the bearings in a pile inside the hub because of the spacer between the bearings there was not a lot of bearing to hit but eventually it came out I saved the spacer & the rear bearing clip & cleaned them up for reuse.The face of the crap metal insert was badly corroded ,I cleaned it and all surfaces inside the hub with a wire brush in my drillmotor I found bearings at an industrial store and found NO problem matching the old bearings I ordered the lipseal kit from Part select It came with 2 seals & dubious instrutions I found the revised seal did not fit my support shaft but the other one did ,it comes in 2 parts that are stuck together with grease pry them apart with e small screw driver. I then tapped the new bearings in rear first then the spacer. then the front bearing I tapped it in enough to get it started then I inserted a cardboard toilet roll center folded enough to go in through the spacer & the rear bearing this lined up the parts so the shaft will go throughafter the bearings & new seal were in I used a marine silicon to put over the corroded face & made shure that it snugged up to the seal ,sealing it good I let it set for 24 hrs Then I putthe shaft back onto the tub put the agataters back on, then put the outer shell with the new bearings back in place connected the hoses, the weights, the switches, the wire clips,the motor,hooked up the springs ,inserted the tub, put the drive wheel back on the shaft then the belt , then put all the front panels back and IT ALL WORKED. total cost $36.00 for bearings $53.00 for the seal kit so about $90.00 total & two weeks at about a couple of hours a day .shure beats $650.00 + $300.00 at a repair facility . GOOD LUCK .IAN

Unpluged washer. Removed screws from front and removed door. Removed one more screw on each side and was able to remove front panel, and also lift the top. The boot seal was held in place with a wire and a spring. I unhooked the spring and removed the wire and then removed the old boot seal. I then proceeded to reverse the steps to put it all back together. It took me almost 4 hours. I also used the picture on your web sight to see how things were put together. It really helped a lot.

If you are using the newer style seal be sure the taper part of the seal is toward the front of the machine. Installing it backward will ruin the seal and burn up the motor and or controller. The seal installation tool will fit on the side oppsite the taper. It will require a helper to hold the drum support while torquing the nut on the pulley. Better instruction would help too.

I haven't finished the job yet. I was very surprised and very happy with how fast PartSelect got my part to me. I ordered a lip seal kit (maytag neptune bearing replacement) in the morning, and the very next day it arrived at my door. I'm very impressed. I have everything cleaned up and ready for the new parts. I just have to finish.

Thanks for the speedy service. I'll be highly recommending PartSelect.

Frank

Removed washer back panel (after unplugging unit). Installed new belt. Reinstalled back panel. Belt wAs very tight getting it to roll onto the drum.

I followed the extensive instructions others had posted on this site about the need to replace the "non-replaceable" bearings. The hard part is getting the old bearings out of the outer tub as they were very corroded. I left the outer tub in the machine and after attempting to beat them out unsuccessfully, I resorted to using a Dremel tool with a small grinding disc on the end to cut the bearings apart, first cutting through the center and removing the ball bearings, then cutting through the outer rim and edge being careful not to cut to deeply, once the bearings were weakened, they came out pretty easily. Installing the new bearings and putting the machine back together was pretty easy. The machine works like new, so for me it was well worth it, thanks to everyone who shared their experiences so I felt comfortable giving it a try!!

First of all, let me say that the Lip Seal Kit was delivered the next day after my order and that I was encourged to attempt the repair by the owners repair procedure response. The lip seal in my machine must have failed along time ago as I have been living with noisy bearings for at least the last twelve months. Disassembly of the machine was straight forward following the Part Select instructions. The lip seal was so disintegrated it hard to tell what originally looked like. Lots of rust and gunk in lip seal area. After removing the snap ring behind the rear bearing I was able to drive out the rear bearing using a brass 3/4" drift pin and a two# hammer. I than attemped to remove the front bearing using a 1 1/2" steel pipe that matched up to the inner race of the front bearing and my trusty hammer. Nothing I did could budge that bearing. Since the outer tube is suspended by springs and struts I decided that lot of hammer energy is absored by springs and my best solution was to remove the outer tub. I then used a couple pieces of U channel steel(this could be steel pipe or some 2X4's) that were longer than the depth of the tub and positioned them to contact metal bearing tub insert. These supports were mounted in small Workmate vise setting on the garage floor and using the 1 1/2" steel pipe I drove the inside bearing out. After some general clean up I picked up some bearings at the local distributor for $42.00. Re-assembly takes a little planning as you need to hold the steel insert betwwen the bearings and keep it lined up in the bore. I think the best way is to install the rear bearing first and install the snap ring. I then put the steel ring in place and held it with cardboard insert from a paper towel roll. The cardboard roll was cut about 2 1/2" long and cut lenght wise to insert though the rear bearing and held in place with tape. The front bearing was then tapped into place followed by the lip seal. Note that if you install the front bearing first and seat it all the way in, the rear bearing will contact the steel insert and not allow enough room to get the snap ring in place. When I was done I didn't have any parts leftover and thru six washing machine loads peace and quiet has returned to my house. Hope it last. Note: If you elect to remove the outer tub you might want to take some pictures so you can see how it all is supposed to look before you close the hood.