MAV9600EWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

My Maytag Atlantis MAV7550AWW does not have a side inspection door like many have posted. After taking most of the washing machine apart I noticed in the front between the top lid and the main body there appeared what looked like some type of clips. I used a butter knife and pushed the V clip back and the one side of the top lid was released. After doing the other clip it was clear that was how to access the motor etc. After the top was open, it's hinged by a plastic hinge, you will need a small wrench and have to move the tub to the side to take off two small nuts also in the front. 8mm I think. Then the entire front of the machine comes off and the pump was right there. Time to remove and install the new pump was 15 minutes. I replaced the belt at this time also but had to lay the washer on it's side. Put the belt on two of the pulleys and pull hard. You will see that one of them is a spring held tightener. I did this outside on the deck as you will have water in the hoses and pump. After all was hooked up I ran a wash cycle only to hear that screeching sound was still there. My best guess is that it's a tub motor going. I am just going to use the washer till it dies then get a new one.

Removed entire cabinet from base, removed drive belt, removed suspension springs, removed tub and transmission together.
Removed 6 screws from brake housing to access snubber. Didn't have the special tool to compress the spring for reassembly, but used 3 longer screws to pull the brake housing back down...worked fine. Reinstalled transmission / tub and replaced all 6 springs. Reassembled cabinet. Unit spins great now...like new.

Parts needed: Snubber Ring and 6 Springs (don't put the old springs back)
Unlug the AC cord, open the top from the front it snaps open with a little force and hinges on the back, remove the 2 screws on the front cover and take it off, tip the washer and remove the belt, take off the pump hose from the back It was not necessary to remove the back cover. Remove the little hose going to the basket from the control module. Remove the 6 springs and lift the complete drum out of the waser and turn it upside down. You can see the plastic snubber ring that is worn, loosen the 6 screws just enough to get the old ring out and the new one in. WARNING: DO NOT TAKE THE SCREWS ALL THE WAY OUT OR THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY WILL RELEASE AND A SPECIAL TOOL IS NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK. Seriously! Install the new ring, center and tighten the screws. Put the tub back in. I found it handy to support the tub with a 2x3 to get the springs back in. Connect hoses back up. It really isn’t that bad, a couple of scraped knuckles.

There is a small back panel about 14" square made to open for access to the drain pump. 3 screws for the back panel and 3 screws for the pump - Oh you do have to slip the belt off & back on, underneath the machine.

Removed the old part with a screwdriver & installed the new part. It took approximately 2 minutes.

very easy replacement. was probably broken for a year and only took five minutes to replace. Can't believe we waited so long!

Removed front panel also right side panel to get to the springs. Used vise grips to extend springs and used coins to keep springs open for replacing.

Took off the upper back that had 6 screws with a screw driver. Found the lid switch . Removed it after I figured out how to remove it. It was a little tricky without instructions. Putting in the new switch was a little tricky also. You have to angle the front of the switch in, pop it in and then push it back so it can snap in. Once I put it in, the washer started right up. I was very happy. Instructions would have been very helpful. I am very pleased with this company because I received my switch in a couple of days. I will definitely use this company again.

Took the back plate off, popped the old lid switch out and the new one in. Very easy. No problems, saved $100 buck at least doing it myself.

As for how I did the repair , I just followed your instruction video . The instruction video provided by Part Select was very very valuable.
The snubber ring was a piece of cake BUT would have been really difficult without the helpful hints in the video like replacing three of the screws in the rings collar with three longer screws so as not to disturb the spring under it.
The suspension springs were a bit more trouble since my washer doesn't have an access panel on the back however THANKS TO YOUR TIP to stretch the spring and put coins between the coils made this much easier . I don't know many guys that are strong enough to lay down and reach through the front and put those springs on the back.
Of coarse the belt was easy.

I also really like you list of probable solutions to the problems with the machine.

My wife is now happy with her washer again therefore I am also happy.

Thanks so much.
I can see me being be a loyal customer for many years to come.

Looked under the symptoms .I had replaced the belt 2 weeks ago, so I ordered the drain pump. Pulled washer away from wall, removed water lines, unplugged electric. I removed the rear panel, found the old part right there, disconnected the in/out tubes, removed old pump, installed the new, re-attached hoses, reinstalled the belt over the 3 pulleys, re-installed access panel. Reconnected water and electric after placing washer back in position. Runs like a new machine!

I followed the direction came with the part.

• I unplugged power electric wire from the wall.
• Unscrewed total of five screws from the back of the top console.
• Removed the top console to gain access the switch.
• I took pictures of the switch position for a future reference.
• Unplugged the switch wire by just pulling the plug.
• Carefully removed the switch and pulled the plunger out plunger assembly.
• Entered a new plunger in first and inserted a new switched carefully.
• Opened and close the lid few times to check the switch is going on an off properly. You will hear clicking sounds.
• Plugged the switch wire to the new switch.
• Reinstalled the console and screwed back the five screws.
• Plugged back the electric plug in wall outlet.
• Tested the washer by washing a full load of clothes.

The whole process took me about 30 minutes.

-Abhay

Followed directions from video on your site. It was very helpful. The snubber ring fixed the problem.

Removed front and rear panels, removed belt, removed old springs, disconnected bleach and pump lines from tub and lifted entire tub/transmission assmebly from washer. Replaced snubber ring at bottom of transmission assembly by backing off screws just enough to allow old ring to be removed and new one to be installed. Replaced pump assembly by removing drain hose and three bolts. Installed in reverse order. Placed tub/trans assembly back into washer and installed new springs using vise grip pliers. Reconnected bleach line and pump lines to tub. Reinstalled fron and rear panels. Installed new belt on bottom side of washer. Piece of cake.

After just over ten years of use (purchased in early 2001), my Maytag Atlantis started making an awful noise during the spin cycle. The noise was very loud and sounded like metal grating on metal. Looking through posts on partselect.com, I identified the problem as the drain pump and pulley. Looking under the washer I could see that where the pulley connected to the drain pump the metal was starting to fall apart. I ordered the drain pump with pulley and a washer belt. The belt didn't look overly worn, but I figured now was a good time to replace it. The parts arrived within a couple days, faster than I expected. I opened the top of the washer by inserting a putty knife about an inch in on each side to release the top which then easily clam-shells back. I removed the front panel by removing two screws in each corner. Using a few blocks of wood, I propped the washer up in the front so I could remove the drive belt. The motor is spring-loaded and is easily moved to allow for belt removal. Then I removed the two tubes that connect to the drain pump. The drain pump was quickly removed from the washer; only three nuts hold it in place. The new pump/pulley went back into place using the same three nuts. After reconnected the two tubes to the pump, I installed the new drive belt. I put the front panel back on, and seated the top back in place. Anxiously I watched and listened as the washer cycled through a load. To my relief, the problem was fixed. All told, it probably took about 15 minutes to make the repair, and with any luck I’ll get another ten years out of this washer.