MAV9600EWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

For safety I Unplugged the machine
Tipped machine back and removed the belt. Rotated the motor by hand and all is well there. Rotated the water pump by hand and a grinding sound appeared. I Let the machine down . Using a hard object , 1/16th of an inch thick, I slide it between the front edge of the lid and the front panel unlocking the clips ( one on the right side and one on the left side ) holding the lid down. I then tipped the lid up and removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on. Lifted the front panel off of the clips on the bottom end of panel. Using a nut driver I removed the 3 bolts holding the pump to the frame. Then with a pliers I removed the clips holding the 2 hoses. With a pan to catch the water I removed the hoses and drained them into the pan.
I then took my machine model number and went to the internet in search of a new water pump. After checking several sites with no success, I come upon the site for PartSelect.Com. With the excellent search method on the site I was able to quickly find the part I needed. I placed my order (10pm) on a Tuesday night and a short time later I received an email letting me know they had my order. On Wednesday I received an email letting me know they had shipped my order. On Friday the order had arrived.
I removed the new pump from the box and inspected it . Every thing looks great. I placed the pump into its mount on machine and bolted it down. Attached the 2 hoses, put the front panel back on and tipped the top down into place. Pushed machine into place, plugged it in and fired it up. I now have a quiet running machine again. Thank You to PartSelect.com for the quick response to my

tip washer up on wooden blocks.remove drive belt.remove "E" clip from tub drive pulley and remove all the parts.Install new parts in kit as per instructions.machine works great!

First I took the front shield off, then I took the motor off.

Read DIY review from William, Middleton, OH on 01-15-08. Tip on how to relieve spring pressure on brake assembly worked like a dream (3ea 10-24X2 bolts/machine screws). Replaced brake and machine works like new and was an inexpensive fix. Once the shell/housing is off the machine, tub can be turned upside down and the base doesn't need to be removed. White powder under machine was a plastic wear ring that tells you when your brake rotor needs to be changed. Brake rotor still had lining but was much thinner than replacement part. Note* Use putty knife to push in clips on front to release the top lid section.

just took the front off and then took the old motor off and switched over about 2 parts from the old to the new and then put the new part on and then placed the front back on and it was ready to go

Removed the waterlines. Set the ends in a small pan or bucket to catch the water.Do the same with the drain line.
Keep an old towell handy as water will drain out of the drain pump when you remove the drain hose. Removed the back panel. Use a flat bladed screw driver to pop the top off the two clips in front holding the top down. Lift the top and pull the two screws which holds the front in place. Remove the front and set aside. Underneath, use gloves and the screw driver to remove the six springs by placing the screwdriver through the top hook end about an inch and with both hands lift the spring off. Carefull not to let the blade slip off and bust your knuckles on something,hence the gloves. Lean the machine over and walk the belt off the pulley. Disconnect the small tube in the back left corner from the drum and lift the unit out from the top. Set the drum on it's top and loosen the six screws under the big pulley just enough to pull the snubber out. Replace new snubber, tighten screws. Set drum back in place and reattach springs. Lean unit over and replace belt. Reconnect the small tube, back left corner. Replace the front panel and top. Connect the drain line and replace the rear panel. Connect waterlines and check for leaks. I went ahead and replaced all springs. I recommend replacing the belt while your at it. I'm wishing I would have. It runs like new, gets more water out on the spin cycle and the dryer dosn't take as long to dry the clothes.

Very simple, Lid cam part was broken, Just need to remove broken plastic lid cam with screwdriver and then snap in place the new piece. Worked like a charm first time. Easy , inexpensive repair to a reliable washing machine. Bill

just unplug the power , disconnect the wire from lid switch ,slide the lid switch assembly out off the switch housing . Then reverse the action I just did above and the machine work again.

Removed old agitator, and installed new one. Very easy.

Needed a medium extension and a rachet a screw driver and a 13mm socket. I used a short screw driver and inserted in it the softer container and lifted it strait up to get the softner container out of the way. I used the medium extension to reach in the auger and loosen the small bolt holding the auger on the machine. Pulled it up and out. Reversed the above procedure and it was set to go. Total time about 8 to 10 minutes. Thank for all the help Kudos to all including Susan W.

it took a little longer to fix the lid switch becasue the you have to figure out how to install the switch after you takethe old one out. The old one popped out but the new one needs some twisting and pressure. It also is an ackward position to work in on the back of the washer front the front. I think the instructions could have been much better by warning the installer to pay attention when you take the old one out. But it worked and we fixed the problem for $22 and four days of waiting for the part.

Installed a new electric control

I opened up the control panel on the back by removing the 4 screws and then used the print that was inside to check where the power went from the power cord. I checked the power at diferent places and determined that I did not have power coming from the lid switch with the door up or down. You could here the switch click when you opened and closed the door but aperantly it was not working. After going on your web site and looking at the other posts I realixed that there was a fuse link in the switch that was probably blown. I ordered the switch and it was a simple matter to replace when it arrived. The washer works great once more.

took off front of washer , took off hose clamp removed old hose . replaced with new hose clamped back on put on front cover ran washer check for any leakes. done and done

On this particular model #MAV7550AWW Maytag washer, you do not remove a back panel since it is a three sided case. I first disconnected power and hoses from wall. Removed the belt from under the machine (you need to tilt the machine). To access the water pump you need to remove the front panel by first sliding a putty knife between the top of the machine and the panel slide it in about 2 inches from the edge to release the latch, repeat the procedure on the other side. On the inside or the panel about 2 inches there is a nut on either side once you remove both the front panel unlatches easily, from the bottom two latches. The water pump is located on the right front of the bottom plate. it is held in by three nut screws, (have plenty of towels to catch the water that is released once you disconnect the two hoses that are on the pump. The replacement part (made in the USA) is all plastic but fits perfectly. We Replaced the pump and reconnected everything. There is a video here on this site the explains in detail the removal and placement of the drive belt. The job is very simple to do. I am a woman under 5ft and I did this repair with the help of my son (17yr old). The machine is good as new. Second repair I have done on the machine and with a lot of savings!.