MAT23PCAAL Maytag Washer - Instructions

Tilted the washing machine back at 45 degree angle. Removed three screws from the underside of machine. Slipped belt off pump. Lessened two hose clamps and removed hoses.
Lifted old pump out. Dropped new pump in place.
Screwed in the 3 screws. Slipped on the belt.
Attached two hoses. Tightened hose clamps.
Set washing machine upright.

No more leak.
My problem was I could not prove the pump was the source, but after switching it out I have had no problems (good enough).

Disconnect the water lines. Remove two screws that hold the water valve to the back of the machine. Pull the water valve out and remove the panel that holds it on to the machine. Remove the water line from the valve to the wash tub. Remove the four wires from the valve remembering where each one goes on the new unit. Attach the valve to tub hose to the new unit. Attach the four wires in the proper order to the new unit . Screw the metal holding panel on to the valve. Push the unit in place and reattach with the two screws. Attach the water lines and use the machine. Remember to unplug the machine prior to changing the valve

I opened the front of the washer by removing the 2 screws on the bottom front of the washer, then swinging the front upward until it was clear of the hangers at the top. The hose sits right in front. It was cracked where it attaches to the tub. I loosened the hose clamps at the tub & the pump with a nutwrench & removed the old hose. I slid the clamps onto the new hose & put the hose on to the tub & pump. I tightened the clamps, reinstalled the front & was finished.

After reading the description of the problem and finding the source of the leak I decided to buy the parts suggested.
To begin:
1. Unplug and turn off water valves at the wall.
2. Unscrew the two front phillips head screws that hold the front of the machine on. Pull off the front facing panel of the washer.
3. There are two hex head screws that hold the lid on. Remove these and then the lid can be lifted to see the nozzle and the valve.
4. Unscrew the pipe clamp that hold the valve on to the pipe.
5. Take out the old valve and nozzle.
6. Use water or soap to lubricate the nozzle and valve before replacing.
7. Install the new parts and reinstall the pipe clamp.
8. Replace the lid and the screws.
9. Replace the face cover and the screws.
10. Plug in the machine and turn on the valves and test.

I tested the machine and thought I could save the water and run another cycle later. This is a bad idea. The water fills up and over the top when a new cycle is added because there is no water level sensor. If you decide to test it and need to empty the water instead of wash a load you can turn the dial to spin and it will drain your test water.
Best

Replaced old valve with new one.

A tension sping on the motor broke, smoking the drive belt.
step1...remove front of the washer to access spring, tip washer back & prop on short 2 x 4 board. 5 minutes
step 2... remove one end of pump belt to get new bely up to drive pulley put on belt using fingers only & replaced the end of the pump belt....2 minutes

step 3...put new spring under motor & hook one end in attaching hole on motor, reach through with pliers to grasp spring to pull end to attach spot on base...1 minute

It took longer to open up the washer front & prop it up that it took to repair it. This is a siper easy repair!

I looked up the procedure to remove the switch in a repair book, removed the broken switch. Then I reconnected the wire leads, put the part in and closed everything up. The part arrived so quickly and there were even instructions with the part which made the repair go so easily.

First I removed the two screws that held the front panel in place. Then I determined that the belt for the pump had fallen off because the drive belt was worn (and inverted) and a piece was hanging off and causing the pump belt to slip off the motor. I replaced the belt for the pump (Temporarily) to allow the tub to drain.

I replaced both belts with new belts and returned the front panel. The process took 15 minutes due to the necessity of explaining the proper use of tools to a neighbor child and allowing him to assist (required for the completion of one of his Cub Scout requirements).

The hardest part was figuring out how to get the front panel off of the washer. Once that was done, the pump came off easy.... 3 screws attached it to the bottom panel and 2 hose had to be disconnected. Putting the new one in was easy.

1st We pulled the washing machine from the wall and unplugged it. 2nd We tilted the maching back against the wall so that we could see all the pullies. 3rd. We removed the two screws that afix the front panel on the lower part of the washing machine and removed the panel. 4th We removed both belts and put new belts on. 5th We put all parts back in place and plugged maching back in, slide it back in place. 6th It worked like a charm and I proceeded to wash 3 loads of laundry that evening. The only tool we needed was the phillips head screw drive to take off the front panel. It took us 5 minutes to fix the machine.

Wish there was a video. I am above average handy but this one- I might just pay someone next time...The tape on the threads was a great tip but took a while to understand what they meant by putting tape on the threads. Scraping off the old pads is easy for the front one but the back pad and a half is so hard to reach to really get it cleaned. Bruised and cut knuckles on that one. Then not having the glue for the pads was a surprise and you have to get a good contact type cement that sets in 10-15 minutes or you will be waiting hours to put it back together. It was easy to put the first spring on, then the second and third got harder and harder.

Thoroughly cleaned the edges to be sealed with a wire brush and sand paper. shimmed the top piece with 1/4 inch plywood strips. seated the top piece with the seal attached and worked the seal down into place. Positioned the seal clamp, carefully, and tightened the clamp screws. Replacing the seal did the trick, even though the old seal did not look to be in bad shape.

Well, I figured out a couple of things during this process. #1 The Washer was smoking. It had happened before (a sock got suck between the basket and the tub) so I assumed that happened again. I couldn't see anything in that space this time, so I dissasbemled the washer to see if any clothing was there. Relatively easy once finding the screws to remove the front panel. #2 What I found was a sock in the pump box. I disconnected the hoses and removed it, saw nothing between the basket and tub and ran it to see if problem corrected itself. It still was smoking. That is when I checked the belts, #3 first the pump belt, replaced it, very easy, just pulled the old one off, and wheeled the new one on. It still was smoking, #4 so I replaced the drive belt, very easy and the same as the pump belt. It still was smoking so I lubed the wheels for the belts, and #5 cleaned the residual rubber around the wheel from the old, fried, dry rotted drive belt. No more smoke!!! However #6 remember to leave space between the basket and the top of the tub, as when I put the washer back together the basket didn't spin. I removed the top and ran the spin cycle, it spun fine, reconnected and it didn't spin, the tub top was touching the basket, that's when I relized the top was on too tight. I reattached and left about 1/4 in of space and all is well now.

Removed the two phillips screws from the bottom front of the machine. Removed the two bolts under the front lip of the top. Raised the lid and propped it up. Disconnected the hose clamp attaching the water fill tube to the valve assembly. Removed the bolt holding the plastic injector to the edge of side panel. Twisted and removed the fill tube from the tub rim. Re-installed new assembly in reverse and all bolts.

Took front panel off. Ran machine. Pump is see-through. Could not see any "aeration" of the water in the pump and no water was coming out of drain hose. Disconnected electric. Disconnected hose from drum to pump(first emptied ALL water from drom)and drained in bucket. Disconnected drain hose from pump to drain and drained any water. Checked for obstructions in hoses. Removed pump. Checked belt (was fine after 14 years). Ordered new pump. Received the next day! Replaced pump and tighten belt. Connected hoses and test it. All OK. Replace panel and did laundry.