MAV8551AWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed it from the package and placed it on the washer.

Removed top, valve and water hoses. Replaced valve then reversed the process. Easy change out. Saved $100 service call.

I first had to take the old part out to find out what the part number was. Then I went online and ordered the part. Once the part came in I attached to part and replaced the drive belt. I did not think it could be so easy.

Remove back compartment, remove belt disconnect two water rubber tubes from the drain pump, unscrew three screws securing the drain pump from the frame. Replace with a new drain pump, secure to frame with thee screws, reconnect rubber tubes, and replace belt.

I pretty much followed the video,and read some of the other comments on how to do it. I only had one problem, the back panel had an opening of about 14"x14" to access the 2 rear balance springs. I finally laid the machine on it's face,so I didn't have to kneel down.The only problem with that,is the tub falls forward, making the springs farther away from the upper hole to attach/stretch, the springs to remove/install. I cured that problem by cutting a wedge out of a piece of 2x4, and stuck it between the top edge of the tub & upper frame. Worked great,held the tub in position, closer to the springs & locating holes. Taking them off is no problem,installing them, was made easier by using the wedge. The parts were a perfect fit, no more 'walking away from the wall' now! Thanks PartSelect

used video provided on repair procedure.

A few youtube videos to replace the motor and belt. From there on out it was pretty easy. Separate the top from the spring clips. Remove front panel. Remove motor once inside and remove belt from underneath. After motor was out, Remove base from old motor and attach to new. Reassemble and voila. Good as new.

Unlike most videos, mine had a solid frame, no access panels. Following, is my disassembly & repair: I disconnected the water supply lines and drain hose. I slid the washer out into the center of the garage & removed the 9 base screws from the base plate. I slid the frame away from the base, leaving the working parts exposed. After pulling the working mechanisms from the outer frame, I turned it (drum, transmission & base) upside down. I used a pair of vise grips, pinched them onto each spring & removed them, using a downward motion it was a lot easier. I placed the base plate aside, removed 3 opposing screws holding the snubber ring & put 3 longer 8-32 screws in to hold the brake assembly. Then I removed the 3 remaining screws, lifted the plate & replaced the ring. Then I reversed the process, replacing the old springs with new ones & finished the job in about 2 hours.

Actually I got on YouTube and looked up the problem and watch the short video of it and went from there and it showed me how to take everything apart what the problems were and as I did take it apart and found out it was exactly what they said I simply reversed it just ordered the parts and put them in and took my time to make sure that everything was to specs as I've measured the clearance of the break and said all the hardware back in place it was quite simple yet it was just time consuming took me about two and a half hours but it runs quiet spins great just like a brand new one I couldn't be more pleased with it and I saved quite a bit of money doing it myself

As described in video; however, the video does not match the model I repaired. Most stuff is the same. Hardest thing to do was installing the new springs on the back of the tub (2 of them).

Removed the inner basket and outer tub to replace the gasket and rubber seal. just had to remove about a dozen screws to get it out.

Tipped the machine up to replace the belt.
The noise didn't go away at first. I decided to spray all the pulleys with some silicone spray, that did the trick.

Followed the excellent utube instructions you provide. Piece of cake when I followed the video. The rear springs became much more difficult because my model does not have rear access panel. They were the only stuggle. Thank you for doing the repair videos

First I raised the top and took out the two screws that held the front on. Then I removed the back panel which were held by 4 screws. Then I turned the machine on it side and removed the belt. I then pulled the hose off from the tub to the water pump and the small hose on the back of the tub. I then removed the 6 springs that held the tube to the base and then I picked the tub up and turned it over on the floor. Then I backed off on the screws that held the snubber in place. I pulled the old snubber out, retighten the screws that held the snubber tight. Then I reversed my steps.

Removing and installing the pump is theoretically easy, as everyone on this site has said so far. Just remove three hex-shaped screws, loosen drive belt and remove pump, then install new one using the same steps in reverse order. The trick is getting the screws off and on--they do not have slots for a screwdriver and there is not room around them for a socket wrench or pliers. I probable spent over an hour just on removing/replacing these screws and have many bruises to show for it. I ended up attaching a vice grips on the tips of the screws underneath the washing machine and screwing them out that way. And replacing the drive belt was horrifically difficult--that's where the other hour went. The devil was definitely in the details! If anyone had told me what I would have to go through to make this repair, I would have called a repairman. And I am an extremely handy person--I do stuff like repairs all the time, so it is unusual for me to say this. The good news is that the new pump works and the washer is back in commission.

Phil job can be done by a baby. Hardest part of the job is to open the top of the washing machine. I was an h. V,a. C. Tect for 46 years.