MAV2200AJW Maytag Washer - Instructions

We had a repair guy come in and he said fixing the pump would cost at least 250. I called my dad and he walked me through it over the phone. I took off the back of the washer, and laid the washer on it's side. I then had to take a break as I had flooded my kitchen. (Lay the washer at an angle.) The belt was taken off by the repair guy. I then undid the hoses, taking the clips off with pliers. Next I screwed the new pump in, and put the hoses back on. FInally I took the belt and stretched over the two small pullies, and then pulled it to the bottom of the big pullie and started spinning it until it wrapped itself all the way around. It wouldn't have taken over an hour but I had a baby who needed me ever couple of minutes.

disconected water lines unplug power and took drain pipe off, used putty knife to open top of washer and pulled off front removed pannel off back pannel, disconnected water level tube,using vise grips took off springs and pulled tb out used 5/16 socket to loosen screws just enough to pull snubber ring out replaced with new one reversed prosses in putting it back to geather

We replaced the valve in the washer that feeds the hot and cold water to the wash/rinse cycles. The replacement was not simple only because you have limited space to work in as the back of the machine does not come off other than a small door in the back or by removing the top. We elected to work in the small space but were able to replace the part within a short period of time and the washer is now working again.

I took the washer into the garage, removed access panel from back. Spun drive belt. This located the trouble with the pump. I removed pump with three sheet metal screws and hose clamps. Upon delivery, I notice the two pumps were not identicle. I called Cust Serv. They assured the difference was ok. I installed the new pump with three screw, put the belt and panel and hoses on and ran a test load of my junk clothing. No trouble.

Studing the numerous notes under the parts listing, help me determine which parts to purchase and replace. These listings also helped me to do the repair with much ease. Once the front and rear panels were removed, I detached the springs which came out very easily. I then pulled out the tub and removed the pulley and loosened the screws holding the snubber which then came out. Put in new snubber tightened screws, replaced pulley & put tub back in place. The springs were a little tougher which led me to believe the old ones were streched. I used a towel to brace tub to one side so as to attach spring on the low side. Used Vice Grip pliers and could not phathom using anything but. Put everything back together and washed a load of towels. The tub was way more stable, but still, towels were little damp. Respun and they dried. Determined that the repairs was all good but told wife not to put so many towels in at once which is probably why the snubber & springs wore out.

Followed directions from video on your site. It was very helpful. The snubber ring fixed the problem.

Unlike most videos, mine had a solid frame, no access panels. Following, is my disassembly & repair: I disconnected the water supply lines and drain hose. I slid the washer out into the center of the garage & removed the 9 base screws from the base plate. I slid the frame away from the base, leaving the working parts exposed. After pulling the working mechanisms from the outer frame, I turned it (drum, transmission & base) upside down. I used a pair of vise grips, pinched them onto each spring & removed them, using a downward motion it was a lot easier. I placed the base plate aside, removed 3 opposing screws holding the snubber ring & put 3 longer 8-32 screws in to hold the brake assembly. Then I removed the 3 remaining screws, lifted the plate & replaced the ring. Then I reversed the process, replacing the old springs with new ones & finished the job in about 2 hours.

Pump is readily accessible at the back of the machine by taking off the access cover. First step is to disconnect power and remove drive belt off tub pulley which is the largest in the center - the takeup is in the drive motor mount but it seems easier to turn the larger pulley and wind the belt off. There are three 3/8 hex mount screws fastening the pump to the washer base and two hose spring clamps attaching the tub drain hose and outlet drain hose to the pump. Follow the directions in the utube video which is the best (most others don't give detailed directions and best method). The only caution I would give is that there is some water in the drain hoses so be prepared to mop it up with sponge and bucket or have some towels available. Install new pump (loose assemble two visible screws to locate pump and then loose assemble far side blind screw and tighten all 3),replace hoses snug to stops and assemble clamps, replace access panel and replace drive belt and plug washer back in.

Actually I got on YouTube and looked up the problem and watch the short video of it and went from there and it showed me how to take everything apart what the problems were and as I did take it apart and found out it was exactly what they said I simply reversed it just ordered the parts and put them in and took my time to make sure that everything was to specs as I've measured the clearance of the break and said all the hardware back in place it was quite simple yet it was just time consuming took me about two and a half hours but it runs quiet spins great just like a brand new one I couldn't be more pleased with it and I saved quite a bit of money doing it myself

I followed the video you have on web site. Very good and easy to follow.

First, I unplugged the washer.

then, I used a small prybar to pop open the front top of the waher. It's hinged at the back top edge. I drew a rough sketch of the four color coded connecting wires so I could disconnect the old water inlet valve and replace it the same way with the new one.
( just in case I lost track of which wire went where.)

I cut off the water supply for both the hot and cold water, (you can also cut off the water main,) then diconnected the supply hoses--noting where the hot water was connected, and where the cold water connected. Maytag had cut out a "C" and
a "H" our of the back wall of the washer,
to assist with hose installation.

I unscrewed the two hex nuts holding the old inlet valve to the back wall of the washer. ( from the outside back of the machine.) and pulled the old inlet valve up to the top of the machine. I didn't remove the basket that holds the laundry, so it was a kind of tight workspace.

Once you reconnect the wires to the new water inlet valve, attach the inlet valve to the washer wall, and reconnect the hoses, it's done. It's pretty simple.

followed video instructions

Removed one bolt, main thing was I had to buy a 10 inch extension for the socket and wrench to reach inside of the agitator, pulled the old one off replaced the new one tighten the bolt and I was done. 10 minutes start to finish.

The hardest part was finding the model # on the back. I couldn't move the washer out...so used a mirror! I used a putty knife to pop the 2 fasteners securing the top. Tilted it up & proped with a plastic clothes hanger. Unscrewed the one screw which is easy to get to with the top up. Replaced the hinge with the 1 screw. Closed the top. Gave the broken hinge to my wife as an early Mother's Day present.

I first had to take the old part out to find out what the part number was. Then I went online and ordered the part. Once the part came in I attached to part and replaced the drive belt. I did not think it could be so easy.