LAT2500AAE Maytag Washer - Instructions

Took off the upper back that had 6 screws with a screw driver. Found the lid switch . Removed it after I figured out how to remove it. It was a little tricky without instructions. Putting in the new switch was a little tricky also. You have to angle the front of the switch in, pop it in and then push it back so it can snap in. Once I put it in, the washer started right up. I was very happy. Instructions would have been very helpful. I am very pleased with this company because I received my switch in a couple of days. I will definitely use this company again.

Layed the machine on it'sback and put the 2 belts on the pulleys,Very easy ,when you know to put the machine on it's backside!

I looked at the machine diagram on the website and removed the screw on the bottom and lifted up the from panel which allowed me to have easier access to the fill injector. Then I removed the back panel off of the control panel on the top of the machine and removed the screw that held the fill injector in place, attached the new fill injector using the hose clamp I ordered with the part ( you need a new hose clamp because the other one is useless after you remove the old injector). Tightend up the screw to hold the injector in place and replaced the back panel and front panel. It was an easy repair and only cost $28.00 with shipping. I easily saved $150.

To troubleshoot the problem I removed a panel/blank from the back of the machine. I then started to fill the tub while watching the pump. It immediately leaked from the shaft seal. I ordered the part early the next morning. It arrived late the next day. I was able to remove the front panel of the machine by removing a screw at each front corner of the bottom of the machine. The pump was attached with three screws which were simple to remove. The pump was an exact replacement and fit identically to the original. I tensioned the belt, and tested the machine. Before reinstalling the front cover, I cleaned the interior of the machine a bit and replaced a couple of hose clamps whose steel screws had started to corrode. All in all a simple repair.

1. Disconnected washer from power outlet.
2. Slid washer out from wall to allow access to rear.
3. Isolated water supply and removed both hot and cold water supply hoses from solenoid valve assembly.
4. Removed one screw holding angled metal bracket with water solenoid valves attached.
5. Rotated bracket to get it to clear back of washer and expose wiring and fill hose.
6. Removed hose clamp on fill hose with pliers and then removed hose from valve assembly..
7. Removed wires from each solenoid.
8. Removed one screw that attaches solenoid valve assembly to angled metal bracket.
9. Slid valve assembly to allow it to be released from angled metal bracket.
10. Reversed procedure to install new valve assembly.

This job turned out to be alot easier than I thought thanks to the tips I received on the web site. First I removed the agitator with a small nut drive I believe it was 1/4". Than I removed the two screws holding on the lid and lofted it out of the way. This is where the Hammer drill comes in. I had read someone else had used WD40 to help break free the threads and get the retaining ring off the tub it self. I worked on this for about 20 minutes with lube and trying to tap it off with the hammer and tap method. Finally I looked over and sitting there on the self next to the washer was my hammer drill. It can't be any worse than banging on the thing with the hammer. (They proably don't reccomend) but with a straight tip and a couple of quick shots the gaint nut came right off. I will say that my washer being older I could barely even tell where the threads were so I figured why not. It worked great. I then took the tub ring(plastic) at the top off and removed tub. Again a couple of quick shots with the hammer drill and the ring came right off. I did spend a little time making sure everything was clean and then reassembled machine with no more leaks. It may sound strange but it worked great with no fighting the space constraints, the calcium buildup and no damage to machine. If it doesn't work get a bigger hammer. Good luck

I went to the Internet and saw how to pry the front panel off the washer. This gave me access to the two belts and four pulleys underneath the washer; a pair for the Drive and a pair for the Pump. There was enough slack in the original belts that they came off with minimal effort. The new belts were easy enough to install. It took a mere seconds to install the new Spacers on the Front panel of the cabinet. The most time consuming portion of the project was getting the washer turned out of its tight corner to get access to the clips on the bottom of the front panel.

I tipped the washer up on 2by4 blocks used 1/4 inch rachet with 5/16 socket two remove 3 screws and the belt from underneath. Took clamps off hoses yahoo saved l00 bucks!

I removed the front of the washer (two screws) and found the drain hose to be cracked near the top where it attached to the drum. A hardware store hose was inadequate because it crimped when bent in an S shape as required, so I ordered the proper part amd installed with two new clamps.
I bought a 5/15 socket driver to do up the clamps, and all is fine.

all went well until testing. tub level did not shut the water off, caused a spill

My washer was sitting in a safety drain pan which made it difficult to work on due to the height of the pan walls. Managed to tilt it back and support on blocks well enough to access underside. Found two of the four leveling feet had fallen off, which was the ultimate cause of the problems from the cumulative effect of running unbalanced over time. Reinstalled these feet and had to remove rust to do so. I added two more nuts to the front feet to hold the adjustment tight. After adjusting to level, washer ran great and was no longer prone to unbalance. Procedure: Remove front panel- two lower screws and pry/pull off. Remove hoses at pump. Remove 3 mounting screws from pump. Remove belt from pump pulley. Push motor towards center of washer to release tension from other belt, and remove belt. Replace with new belt. Replaced old drain hose to pump and replaced all hose clamps with new. Install pump, replace pump belt. Level the washer. Replace front panel. Take the opportunity while the washer is open to clean out the dust from inside!

A friend said the cause was probably a belt. On Google we checked the washer model number which took us to your site. We looked at the videos on how to do the repairs, and so ordered a drive belt and pump belt. They arrived in two days. My husband is 84-years-old, I'm 83 -- difficult for us to lift the machine to tilt it. Experimenting with fulcrum and lever, we managed -- that's what took so long. After watching the videos again, I laid on the floor and was able to apply the belts. Washer works great!

Watched youtube presentation so that I knew what to do.

Removed front door from washer lifted front of washer off floor and removed belt’s put washer back on floor
Removed motor and slide
Cleaned and replaced slides and greased put back in washer secured
Then lifted front of washer back up replaced new belts and started the washer up worked great put front of washer back on done
Great instructions that came with parts

1. Remove front panel with phillips screw driver.

2. Remove hose from drum and exit pump

3. replace hose with new one (used some silicone grease on hose)

4. Tightened clamps with nut driver

5. ran a couple loads of wash to check for leaks

6. found none

7. replaced front panel - Job done