MAV5920EWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

PROBLEM: The washer lid has two hinge pins that are attached to the lid with Phillips screws (one per pin). The plastic pin that inserts into the hinge broke off, allowing the lid to come free. SOLUTION: First, I removed the lid from the washing machine. Second, I used a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the original hinge pins from the lid. Third, I replaced the hinge pins. Fourth, I used a flat-head screw driver to pry up the washer top to obtain easier access to the hinge screws. Fifth, I removed the original hinges with a Phillips-head screwdriver (one screw per hinge). Sixth, I attached the new hinges to the washer lid. Finally, I attached the hinges (and lid) to the washer top, then lowered the washer top.

Removed inspection panel on rear of washer. Pump right there. Removed inlet and outlet hoses with pliers on squeeze clamps. Three 3/8" size self tapping screws were removed and old pump came right out. Reversed process with new pump from this site that fit perfectly. New pump was an upgrade factory part that mounted inside washer without a mounting plate as the old one did.

The Repair went well . I had the hose on in about 30 seconds . The best part about this ordeal was the ease of finding the part on your website , and the speed of the delivery . I had my part in about 2 days , put it on and back to the fun part of clothes washing . I would recomend this company to everyone. Thanks, Rick K.

Replace the motor in 25 minutes, my repair guy said it was not worth the time , I got this motor for less than $150. And save my self over $600.00, this was incredible.

unscrew the screw holding the broken part in the lid to remove the old part and tighten the screw to a firm position to hold the new piece in place. Now working fine.

Pulled wahser away from wall, unpluged, removed screws from rear access panel, removed hoses from water pump, used towell to absorb excess water still in pump and hoses, removed drive belt, removed screws securing pump, removed old pump replaced it with new pump, cussed a little when replacing hoses, repeated steps in reverse order, checked for leaks.

i followed the directions i found online. do not take the screws all the way out! The snubber ring solved the problem. I replaced the springs since i had them. The old ones seemed OK.

Took the washer outside, turned the washer on its side to expose the bottom panel. Removed the old water pump (three screws and two hoses. Replaced with new water pump and connected all fittings. Real easy to do. Washer runs great now.

Looked up probable causes on PartSelect website. Determined that worn snubber ring and and weak springs were probable cause. Ordered parts on a Thursday. Parts arrived on following Monday.

Read several repair stories on the website. One story gave step-by-step instructions for disassembly. Very helpful since I followed this prescription. While waiting for delivery of the parts, I removed the tub and inverted it.

Removing springs was relatively easy. Did not remove snubber ring until new parts arrived, but replacing it was easy. I was very cautious about loosening the 6 screws and heeded the warning about the 200 pound spring under the cover.

Diagrams on website showing expanded mechanism of washing machine parts were very helpful for reassembly.

The most difficult part was installing the new springs, since they were quite strong. One repair story on the website suggested using coins to expand the new springs enough to be able to hook the springs into the upper slots and hangers.

I USED ONE OF THE MORE ACCESSIBLE LOCATIONS (AT THE REAR OF THE MACHINE) TO PREPARE EACH SPRING FOR INSTALLATION).

I hooked a spring in the bottom slot. I pushed a long heavy screwdriver through the spring's upper hook and the hole in the metal support and expanded the spring until I could insert 1/2-inch washers (about 8) between the rings. I prepared each spring this way for installation around the tub. With the washers in the expanded spring, it was relatively easy to use a pliers to lift the upper hook into the hole or hanger.

I decided to insert the spring next to the motor first since it was the more inaccessible. The remaining springs were installed relatively easily.

Reassembly was easy by following the reverse order of the disassembly instructions. I found the tub to be pretty heavy to lift, so when it came time to put it back into the frame, I turned the frame on it's side and inserted the tub from floor level.

I am very proficient mechanically but I believed I could make this repair without difficulty. I think that without the repair stories I had viewed on the website, it would have been more difficult. A spring tool would have been immeasurebly more helpful.

Leaned washer forward, removed clamp and old hose, replaced with new hose, reinstalling clamp.

Hired someone. Note: I purchased two (2) hoses and (2) clamps -- this is the third time I am replacing a cracked hose. The manufacturer needs to use better quality and more flexible material for hoses.

Pulled up the top of the washer and removed the lid hinge with a star tip screw driver. Realized that I also needed the hinge pins and had to reorder those. They should come as a kit.

Take three screws out of the top of washer where the control knobs are located, pull knobs off and tilt the panel toward front of machine. The control panel that needs replaced is on the back of that panel, two clips and unplug wires from control and install new control in reverse order of removing.

I tilted top cover to remove front washer panel removed suspension springs to remove complete tub assembly to gain access to bottom. Drive pulley to remove snubber ring I performed the repair step by step as per your video. was dead on made the repair go smoothly. I installed the belt last tilting washer mechine back to gain access to undercarrige just walked belt on all three pulleys self adjusting then. made sure washer was level. Front to back side to side no rocking in any deriction My wife did four full loads problems gone I think all needed to be done to complete repair snubber ring , washer drive belt, & leveling machine all played there roll in putting washer back in factory working condition washer not a angery walking vibration nightmare

Using nutdriver or screwdriver, remove metal panel from lower left side of back of washer to expose the pump. This is where the drain hose attaches to the washer. Use pliers to move the clamp off of the drain hose, then ease the hose off of the pump by wiggling it back and forth while pulling gently. Be careful to keep drain hose opening pointed upward until you can point it to a bucket, as there's likely to be quite a bit of water in it. Detach drain hose on other end as well (wiggling / pulling works well here; no clamp is used, so no pliers are required). Install new hose by reversing above steps.