MAV6000AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

pop top,remove 2 screws,remove front panel.remove 2 spring clamps from tub hose.reverse!

On a scale of 1 to 5 (with 5 being the most difficult), I would rate this a 2 or 3. It is just a matter of knowing how to access the pump. First I unplugged the washer. Then used putty knife to push in clips to lift up top of washer (the clips are located about 1 inch in from each side). Used socket to remove the two screws holding on front panel. Disconnected the two hoses from pump using pliers to squeeze clips (be sure to have cup or bowl handy because water will come out of the hoses). Lifted up washer and removed belt from pump. Used socket wrench to remove pump and replace with new one. Reattached hoses and belt. Reattached front panel and closed the top of the washer. Everything was easy to access.

Following the lid switch installation instruction, it was real easy.

Removed 5 screws on back of the control tower.

removed the temperature control board and replaced with new board.

Pop the cap off the agitator/auger no tools needed. Once removed select a socket and a socket exstension. remove the screw amd pull off the part. Make sure to save the washer that may be still attached to the inside of the agitator. install the new agitator using the existing screw and washer. Takes about 15 minutes.

removed rear acess panel and used pliers to remove leaking hose then reinstalled new hose..

Followed the excellent utube instructions you provide. Piece of cake when I followed the video. The rear springs became much more difficult because my model does not have rear access panel. They were the only stuggle. Thank you for doing the repair videos

Part Select data showed that over 60% of the time, this issue of the washer shaking was due to broken support springs for the tub and over 30% of the time, it was a worn/broken snubber ring. So, I initially purchased the six springs and snubber ($30 total) from this site and completed both of those repairs. I leveled the washer securely and tested it again. However, the washer still had the issue of shaking during the spin cycle with no improvement. So, I then researched again for this issue and parts recommended were a lower bearing kit or transmission. Since the transmission replacement was $429, that wasn't worth trying. So, for the $52 lower bearing kit, I ordered it from along with a new belt ($22) (even though the existing belt didn't show any signs of significant wear, but I changed it anyway). The new bearing kit was installed and the washer is now operating like new. I used the current videos on the website for replacing the parts that I ordered, and they were perfect step by step instructions. It made the repair very simple for anyone with any sense of do-it yourself ability and with minimum, ordinary tools. So, for approximately $110 for parts and doing the repair myself, the washer is like new again. Thank you!!!!

I found the mostly likely parts to fix my problem on the website... that washer would not start, stating the lid switch assembly fixed the problem 66% of the time. I used an ohmmeter to test the switch and could not find any continuity. Replacing the switch took less than 5 minutes. Easy.

As described in video; however, the video does not match the model I repaired. Most stuff is the same. Hardest thing to do was installing the new springs on the back of the tub (2 of them).

Removed the inner basket and outer tub to replace the gasket and rubber seal. just had to remove about a dozen screws to get it out.

Tipped the machine up to replace the belt.
The noise didn't go away at first. I decided to spray all the pulleys with some silicone spray, that did the trick.

Brought unit out to garage so I would have room to work on it. Popped the top off, removed two screws to remove the front panel, removed back panel also, since there was no way I was going to the trouble of dis-assembly to get to the snubber without changing those 6 springs also - and you HAVE to remove the back cover to access all 6 springs.Removed belt and level and drain hoses- tub came right out. Loosened those 6 screws without removing them and pulled old snubber out- very straight-forward. Spent 10 minutes just comparing the old and new snubbers- I saw that there's a "ridge" around the inside of the new part that is gone on the old snubber. Sprinkled some corn starch at base of unit where the new snubber will fit (Great Idea someone had!) After everything was re-assmbled, I noticed the tub was now nice and tight when I grabbed it to move it. Before, it took no effort AT ALL to move it all around. Did a test load with some laundry the wife had stacked on the drier. Imagine my disappointment when I heard loud knocking inside when it started to agitate, but not while it spun!
Got all my tools back out and took the wet laundry out to take it all apart again- found the wife's heavy glass vase had been hidden in one of the towels. Re-tested- everything works GREAT!So far I've changed the drum seal (hardest) and the waterpump (easiest)- thi springs and snubber was alsmost as easy as the pump.
Above average shipping from Parts Select also- very helpful and efficient people on the phones.

First I raised the top and took out the two screws that held the front on. Then I removed the back panel which were held by 4 screws. Then I turned the machine on it side and removed the belt. I then pulled the hose off from the tub to the water pump and the small hose on the back of the tub. I then removed the 6 springs that held the tube to the base and then I picked the tub up and turned it over on the floor. Then I backed off on the screws that held the snubber in place. I pulled the old snubber out, retighten the screws that held the snubber tight. Then I reversed my steps.

I unplugged the machine, tipped it back slightly and rested in on a gallon paint can. I inspected the under side and manually advanced the fan belt to hear if I could hear the noise at the water pump. The pump pulley and shaft was worn and there were metal shavins (small) on surface of pulley.

Then I removed the belt from the pulley, rested the machine back to normal position, removed front panel (two sheet metal screws on inside top), removed the water pump hoses (htere is water int he hose & pump assembly so you will get some water on floor.

Then I removed the pump and ordered a new one. The installation was the reverse, machine works like new and the washer tub spins better than ever during the final rinse and spin, since the worn water pump was binding and stressing the machine.

Thanks to Part Select - Your website is awesome and your service instructions and user advice gave me the confidence to do the repair myself. I saved $150 - $250 for the repair.

Took off the back plate. Looked to see where it was leaking. Squeezed the clamps on top and bottom to remove from hose and pull hose out.