LAT7314AAM Maytag Washer - Instructions

Found noise to be belt slapping the base sheet metal, from being too loose. Belt was loose because the drive pulley was worn and one side of pulley was loose! Used allen wrench to loosen the pulley set screw, and pryed off the old pulley. Replace d with new pulley and new belts. Works and sounds like new!

Cleaned the cavities. Lubed them with olive oil. Inserted one ball on left side, while holding tension against that side to hold the ball in the lid and top indentations. Applied olive oil to right hand side indentation, and placed the new ball into lid indentation. Put lid down into closure cavity with ball, and with lid vertical, began pushing it rearward so as toslightly spring metal lid rolled edge and top metal away from one another UNTIL the new ball snapped into the hinge indentation in the machine cover. Done.

My husband took the old water inlet valve off, and put the new one on, and it works great. Very easy to replace.

Unplug from electrical outlet.Unscrewed control panel and laid it open. The switch is in 2 parts. Removed wires and unscrewed each switch. Put wires back on and tightened switch back to mounting plate. No brainer. Tried washer and worked perfectly. Two tips: Check fuse on plate to make sure it isn't burned out before ordering any parts. Secondly when installing if you have older model washer there is a nib that sticks up on mounting plate that keeps the switch from installing correctly. Cut this nib off with a wire cutter and then install. The directions don't mention that.

Removed top. Removed agitator and tubs . Replaced seals and reassembled.

First closed hot & cold water faucets feeding the two washer water hoses, then turned the machine on fill momentarily to bleed off water pressure in hoses, and unplugged power cord. Used pliers to help break seal on brass hose ends, removed old hoses. Removed 1/4 & 5/16 sheet metal screws, replaced leaky valves. New assembly was EATON Made in USA, high quality. Replaced rusted outlet hose spring clamp with "IDEAL" stainless screw clamp. Replaced unit in machine, installed new hoses, runs fine.

I removed the top cover that has the controls .Then started to voltage check the circuit (diagram was inside top cover) starting from L1 (had power cord pluged in) noted power was not going through the Check switch after tapping on the switch it started to work. the switch was intermitent so replaced with a new one from your company. works good now .Greg Gran

Had to look up how to pop the front panel off the washing machine - that was the hardest part. Once that was off, the top unbolted and the cover came off the back of the control panel with a few screws. Tilting the washer-top back, I was able to clip the new upper and lower injector (attached to each other in advance) to the washing machine. Then I realized that I needed to clamp the water line to the injector FIRST - so I found a small screw clamp and attached the water line. One screw and one plastic tab hold the injector in place. Everything went back together fine and worked great! Maytag washer keeps on truckin for another ten years!

I looked at the machine diagram on the website and removed the screw on the bottom and lifted up the from panel which allowed me to have easier access to the fill injector. Then I removed the back panel off of the control panel on the top of the machine and removed the screw that held the fill injector in place, attached the new fill injector using the hose clamp I ordered with the part ( you need a new hose clamp because the other one is useless after you remove the old injector). Tightend up the screw to hold the injector in place and replaced the back panel and front panel. It was an easy repair and only cost $28.00 with shipping. I easily saved $150.

simply removed old motor and replaced with new

I was really glad the parts took only two days to come in. My son did the work and very easy for him. I handed him the tools. Take inlet hoses off, go into back and top of machine to reconnect injector hose to tub. Then connect hose to intake valve replacing two clamps and connecting inlet valve to back of machine. Reconnect two water hoses to back of inlet valve and to the faucets.

Removed the bottom belts to inspect. Belt for tub was well beyond it's service life. Belt for pump was OK. ordered the pair and replaced. When the washer was started the agitator still did not move. With power off I grabbed the agitator and pulled upward a few times then twisted it from side to side a few times. No change. Then I did the same with it with powered up ( a bit dangerous ). The agitator then ran OK.

Remove the power cord and water hoses. Lay the machine on the floor. Remove two belts (washing and pumping). Unlock the screw of pulley using a hex key. Remove the broken pulley from the motor. Place in the new pulley. Lock the screw of the pulley. Install two belts. Turn the machine vertically. Plug in water hoses and power cord. Level the machine.

shut off water to machine remove water mixer removed bracket. Installed new part put back together, turn on water, start washer all worked as it should.
Really like your parts selection.
clayton

Could not repair. The gearbox on the agitator was broken and that kept the agitator from working. Do not assume it is a belt problem on a washer built in 1987.