MAH14PDAGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

When I found the WAX motor would not cycle I applied 120VAC directly to the WAX motor and machine went into SPIN CYCLE as it should have. Stopped machine and ordered replacement Machine Control Board. Replaced the part and machine works perfectly.

I thought for sure the washer was toast! Thankfully, due to your website it was an easy 26.00 fix. Husband took care of the repair in about a half an hour. He did not encounter any problems with the fix and it's running like a charm!

I bought the new Lip Seal Kit thinking that the sound I was hearing had to do with it sticking inside the drum at the end a rotation in either direction. We had replaced the outer drum a few years back when the bearings went. Believe me, you will know when your bearings are going. It sounds like you are in the same room with a jet engine. I knew this sound was not from the bearings. I had the washer apart in about fifteen minutes...and yes, I am a 125 lb. female...so ladies, it is not an impossible task. I have taken that washer apart enough times before that it is no big deal. Just make a mental note as to how it goes back together....if all else fails one can look at diagrams online. My husband just stood there and said "nice job honey". After I got the old seals out and the parts cleaned up, I turned the bearings to make sure they sounded smooth. A-okay. I installed the new seal and smoothed molycote on the spider shaft; replaced the drum, front panels, etc; tightened the pulley with a torque wrench, belt on, etc. and.....turned on the washer. The sound is still there. Sooooo, I am fairly confident that it comes down to the belt and the motor isolators...mostly the isolators...belt is pretty secure. I am changing those tomorrow. Found someone on youtube with the same problem...only far worse...and a response posted said it probably was due to the isolators and belt. Our seal wasn't too fried, but I guess that it isn't a bad thing that I changed it anyway since it has been a few years and they do fail resulting in bearing damage. Better to catch it now. As for whether my machine is worth fixing at its age, I went shopping while this was going on and I don't trust anything out there to not have a multitude of problems. At least with my current model...that still looks like new btw...I don't have a learning curve to deal with on how to take it apart. And a great big shout out to my father who taught me how to dig in my heels and get my hands greasy!! Update: Replacing the motor isolators did the trick. Put on a new belt too as long as I had the back panel off again. Running like a champ!!

The replacement was not complicated. It took me more time because the details are not in the videos and I had to do it twice because I didn't get the seal on correctly the first time. I used the Neptune videos available on you tube for the basics. Use the "inspecting front door lock wax motor" video for a start, but be sure to take off the top front crosspiece also for easier access to the spring that tensions the seal retainer cable. You don't have to disconnect any wires, just lay the door lock assembly gently to the left of the washer. The old seal comes off very easily, using the front loader door seal video. My washer was an early one without the drain tube so I had to get the drain tube and clamps separately and drill out the tub nipple to the left below the seal. I used the biggest drill bit I had that fit inside the nipple. The tub is plastic and very easy to drill. Most of the plastic shavings will come out toward you if you drill slowly and don't push too hard on the drill. I also used my shop vac to try and get out any other shavings. I used dish washing liquid as a lubricant to help put the seal on and used too much. It doesn't take very much. The spring that tightens the inner seal clamp/cable was very hard to attach and it did require two locking pliers [vise-grips] and quite a lot of effort. You have to hook one end of the spring to the cable that wraps around the seal, hold the other end of the cable with locking pliers, the free end of the spring with locking pliers, and stretch the spring to hook it to the free end of the cable. There are some other methods described in various forums and one of them might work better for you. When I was an auto mechanic we had a special tool that helped attach springs like this on drum brakes. I was sure wishing that tool was still in my tool chest but it was not. This was the most difficult part for me, getting the cable and spring all in place and stretching the spring without dislodging the seal and having to start all over.I didn't get the seal aligned correctly the first time and had to do it over after putting ever thing back together and washing a load of clothes. I could have avoided that by carefully inspecting the seal before I put everything together. When you put it back together the end of that red or green nylon line that looks like weed eater line goes under the soap/bleach dispenser bezel on the top so you can manually open the door if the wax motor goes bad and it won't unlock.

Removed front panels, lifted top to open position, removed back cover, removed drive belt, drum pulley, removed rear bearing snap ring, removed seal clips, removed 3 baffels then the 3 mount bolts. Pulled out spinner support and the inner drum. Removed the rear bearing #6206LL with brass drift rod and heavy hammer (came out with little effort. The front bearing #6207LL I soaked with penatrating oil overnight (this bearing was making all the noise as after 11 years water finally got to it) The next morning I had little trouble removing it with the brass rod and hammer, taking my time to work my way around driving it out. After cleaning everything up, assembly was the reverse, carefully driving in the new bearings. The new lip seal was the most difficult getting started without going in crooked. Time spent was a good 8 hours (it would have been more if the outer drum was removed) and the cost of everything was $167.09. Thanks to Part Select, the spinner support assy came the very next day. The two bearings came from Bearing Supply & Depot Inc. The washer operates like new!! Very Quiet!!

Using online disassembly instructions removed and replaced front and rear bearings. Then attempted to install the seal kit that was purchased online from partselect. Com. Was supposed to receive both seals plus lubricant so that no matter which seal I needed I would be covered. The kit I received had 2 seals that were identical. . . I needed, as it turned out the early seal kit, but unfortuneatly I had 2 revised kits. Of course I tried to assemble one but it just won't work. The seal kit must be the correct one. I didn't give up. I ordered another seal kit online from appliance partspros. Com and received both kits as advertized. . . One being the early version plus a small packet of grease along with all the other required loose parts and was able to complete the repair. The second time around proved much easier because of the experience factor.

Following the information on the web it simplified this repair a great deal. Disassembled the front of the machine, then pulled it out from the wall, removed the rear panel. Removed the belt & pulley and knocked the shaft loose from bearings. Removed the tub and using the brass bar drove the rear bearing out first then removed the seal and front bearing. The seal has to come out first so the plastic spacer can be removed, used the brass bar from the rear of machine to drive front bearing out. Cleaned up all parts and reassemblied. Replaced the motor isolators and drive belt with new since I was in the machine that far. Removed the soap & bleach tray and cleaned up all those parts. re-assembled and washed a load of rags to test machine. Sounded like a new machine. Sourced the new bearings from a bearing supplier they are 6200 Series bearings, Rear 6206-2RS; Front - 6207-2RS. Had I not made this repair I would have been buying a new washer & dryer so this job for a little over a hundred bucks saved me thousands! Thanks to PARTSELECT for all this information!!

Replaced parts then the door wouldn't unlock, so we called a repair man and he's replacing the control board and the wireing harness, it cost 394.85 but the machine is in good shape so it was cheaper than buying a new washer and dryer, because I want them to match & the dryers only 7 years old.

Removed 4 screws and door, lowered and removed front panel,removed screws holding locking tabs for the machine top, removed the four screws holding soap reservoir, lifted the top. Located under the lid and above the doorway I pulled out the wax motor retaineing clip with pliers and the wax motor, used pliers to remove the wire connectors, hooked them up to the new part and reassembled.

First I took off the door and the front of the washing machine. Then, took off the bracket of the soap dispensing bin from the top of the machine. Then lift up the top of the machine, and unscrew the bracket that holds the wax motots, label and pull wires, replace motors and wires and put back together. This is also a good time to clean and dust the interior of the machine. Before replacing, my motor smelled and looked burnt out, instead of paying $300 -$400 to have someone look at it, I investigated and I fixed it for around $30. I hope I get to inspire people to figure things out and save some cash!!

I had pretty much the same experience as others. Difficult parts were 1) removing the inner tub, I used the blunt side of an axe with a 4x4 after several hammers would budge it. 2) removing the old bearing, like others I had to cut them out using a Dremmel with a steel cutting disk from Home Depot ($15) Wear eye protection as sparks are flying! Cut out the inner race and the bearing fell out, then cut V notches in the outer race, trying not to cut into the bearing seats on the tub although I did have a couple small cuts, then hammered it out from opposite side. Installed the new beaings and metal sleave between (what is the sleave for?). I tapped both bearing up against the seat shoulder but with the sleave in between there's not enough room and the new bearings turned real hard as the sleave is binding them. (Minor panic). A couple taps with hammer and chisel on the inner bearing from opposite side to push it out created enough room and the bearings turned real easy. Suggestion; plug the drain opening in the bottom of the outer tub with a towel or sponge to prevent pieces of the old bearing from falling in there. I saw one ball roll down in drain, so I tipped the machine on its side and several balls washed out plus pieces of the old bearing. I had a towel laying over the top but that wasn't enough, needs to be stuffed down in the opening. Re-assembly was easy and the machine runs perfect. The wife is very impressed. Total investment approx $85 (kit, bearings and cutting disk) plus about 8-10 hours vs $800 repair or new machine.

Repair was simpl, took about 3 1/2 hours +. Used on line video for dismantal information & reassembling. Hammered out old bearings and seals. Installed them with big bolt and old bearings, I used the old bearings as pushing tools for new bearings. The large bolt and nut pulled the bearings in to place at the same time. Installed seal and reassembled machine. I moved from Jester to King at home.

Thanks to Partselect's accurate parts' lists, and installation video, along with others' posted installation trials, gained confidence to attack problem on my own (coupled with repair (or should I say, "replace")men's advise to trash machine). Bearings had basically disintegrated, causing inner tube to be out-of-alignment, and rub against outer tube. Would just like to add to what others' contributed, that I found Plumber's Tub Drain tool to work very well at knocking-out larger front bearing (was perfect fit to ID of bearing). Had to Dremel cut out rear bearing, but quite accessible from rear of machine. Otherwise, alot of cleaning from 13yrs. of useage. Thanks for everyone's assistance!

We read the instructions on the website which were very useful. We have a Maytag front loader. The instructions and pictures which came with the part are written to look like the hardware in the door and the door latch spring etc. is attached to the outer door. I realize this part fits multiple brands but instructions could clearly state that you have to remove all of the hardware from the inner door liner that you are replacing and reassemble it to the new inner door liner. It is really important to take pictures of how the door latch and spring are attached as this took the most time putting back on the new door liner. Our washer is older and did not have a vent tube and now has one. In the end, everything was correctly reassembled and we no longer have a leaky door. Shipping was very prompt and we're pleased with the part and repair.

Watched the video, worked just like shown so as quick as you can take out 8 screws you can make the repair. Turned out it was the MCB but maybe this part (wax motor) Will save a main control board failure.