MAH14PDAGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Using the video tape (YouTube URL) provided, I went step by step and replaced the bellows with no problem. No water leaking..the toughest part was putting the spring back on, it takes some coordination and muscle.

I followed the steps on the first post which are very good. I had trouble, however, putting the seal over the drum. I finally removed the plastic rim to the drum by removing the clips. I was then able to lay the rim on the floor and put the new seal over it more easily. It is a lot like putting a bicycle tire on a rim. I had no helpers so I used a vice grip pliers on one end of the cable-spring and another pliers on the other. I was then able to pull both ends together enough to get them to hook up. I recommend removing the plastic rim as I mention above. Had I done this first, I would have done the job in less than 30 minutes.

We followed the directions in other people's repair stories here. Removing the spring was a challenge, as was getting it back on! The rest of the repair was simple. Be patient with removing the soap dispenser. Ours had some plastic cords connecting it to the frame which we didn't anticipate, and we broke them because we didn't see them.

We're going to try that new Affresh product in the hopes of avoiding this repair again in the future. We never washed anything harmful in the washer. This seal becomes moldy and deteriorates with time. Using bleach to kill the mold only speeds the process.

Unscrew door hinges, front panel, soap tray, lift top to 12 oclock position,unhook strap from spring located on top of the drum,tape strap ends to drum to prevent from falling,disconnect the billows drain clamp on the bottom of the billows,remove the billows by peeling off the drum, install the new billows from the top first and tape it to the drum to prevent it from slipping off as you work your way around the drum,install the strap in its track, secure with spring(better with two people)in same location, hook up billow drain, finish doing the laundry.

This is an easy fix once you see how it goes together but can be a little difficult in certain steps. I first Removed the door at the hinges and removed the screws on the side securing the liner. Once the liner was removed you can see what pieces are involved and how they go together. Take pictures before removing any thing, you'll need them during the repair. I removed the vent tube and the circular thing with springs. Transfer the circular thing first noting the screw slots. The next step may be a little difficult to see how the upper vent tube bracket slides off and how to maneuver the springs. The whole unit comes off as one so don't take it apart. Make sure you know how it goes back on with pictures. I found using channel lock pliers to compress the site springs was the best as it was easily attached on the new panel while compressed. The vent tube with the rubber seal on the bottom was tricky but you can finesse it in place. Once together putting the door together and back on the unit was easy, Worked great and saved a ton of repair money.

Everything went smoothly enough until I reached the tension spring issue...It is definitely a two person job (that part, al least) It may be helpful to add that to the video...otherwise, the repair went well as I followed the video completely

I looked on Utube at some videos which helped a lot all told i replaced the bearings in the outer hub which was quite a chore as the bearings came out rather hard I used a steel rod about 18 inches long and a heavy hammer to pound the old bearings out they came out hard then I put the new bearings in very carefully as I had to tap them back into place and installed the seal and put the new shaft on the tub and slid everything back into place. The instructions that came with the new seal and shaft were very helpful I bought the new bearings from local implement dealer as they were not available with the shaft and seal didn't keep track of my hours probably about 21/2 to 3 hours

Very easy.I used a screw driver to remove and install the new hinges. Three screws on each hinge. Door closes like new again.

Used the conversion kit to replace both parts.Note the supplied instructions say to test the install by running a spin cycle before you put the door and panels back on. However the unit will not initiate a spin cycle without the door lock engaged. Not just the light switch, the actual door lock mechanism. You have to reinstall the door, then test. This error in the instructions cost me about 30 minutes.

With a torn boot on this front load washer, (nails in the pocket of my jeans) water leaked out on the floor with every wash. I knew it would cost a fortune to get fixed, so I decided to try it myself. I can take anything apart!
I heard of Parts Select.com from a friend and checked it out. With their help, I found the model and part and just ordered it. It was easy!
When the part arrived, I was obligated then to do something!
Since this is a stack unit, with the dryer on top, I thought I would take the dryer off and try the repair from the top. But there was no way that dryer was coming off! I tryed every screw and it wouldnt budge.
So I saw two screws in the front and started in on the washer below. I was careful to make notes on how I took this machine apart so I could put it back together!
I got down to the drum with a spring close guywire that holds the boot tight to the drum. It came off easily and I took the old torn boot off and put the new boot in place.
The tough part was getting that guywire and tight spring back on! The lip that holds the boot to the drum is very shallow and the book would not stay on all the way around and allow me to string the guy wire around in the little channel without coming off. FRUSTRATING!
I improvised and used duct tape to tape the boot to the drum to keep it in place so I could string that wire around. Man, did that take some doing!
I managed to get that wire around with the help of the duct tape, but the second big challenge was putting the spring on, as it was under alot of tension. It was tough to puuuuuullllll it together without pulling the boot out of the channel I had to duct tape it into!
By the grace of the Almighty, some prayer and some cussing (forgive me Lord), I got the spring into the rings on both ends of the guy wire. VICTORY!
Putting the boot front back in is easy, just put it into the holes that receive the projections under the front of the boot. No problem.
After all that, putting the washer all back together was a cinch!
And....
IT WORKS!!
I did it! No more leak! No expensive fix it job!
I did it myself, am prouder than heck!
Oh.....
No more Nails in the jean pockets!

My husband completed the repair by himself. He said that the "string trick" was helpful.

Removing the gasket was very easy. A couple hints on installing (1) attach the gasket to the drum first!! this is the trickiest part but once you get it on, attaching the cable and spring was fairly easy (just used two people and a pair of needle nose pliers). Once you get that on, "lube" up the other side with soap to make install easier.

removed door,Opened the front panel, opened the top and proped it out of the way. Pulled the boot from the front cover disconnected the drain, released the boot clamp and pulled the boot off. I cleaned the inside of washer and soap tray. cleaned debris from the drain hose. repaired a broken soap dish connection. changed supply hoses and new valves. Generally checked cleaned and overhauled the washer.

removed one panel and front door to access under tub.leak solved!!!! thanks

Off with the door. Off with the front panel. Lift the top and you are looking at the boot. Remove the boot retaining wire . Remove the boot and reverse the procedure. It's a snap.