MAT10CSEGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

Lets just say thank god for part select!!!! # 1 By far. This was a one two three job.

Took a look at the new door switch assembly, used a socket wrench to remove the old, took wires off of old and attached them to the corresponding terminal on the new. attached the new assembly inside the top panel. Works!

After turning the water off and unplugging the machine, I took the front panel off the washing machine. I then slipped the belt off the pump sprocket. The pump was right in the front and easy to remove. All I needed was a screwdriver, for the hose clamps, and a 5/16" socket to remove the old pump. I then installed the new pump, with the existing screws, re-attached the 2 hoses, slipped the belt back on, and popped the front panel back into place. The new pump works great and the leak is gone. The whole job onlt took about 30 minutes.

The hardest part was actually finding the right part. It was easy to take of the control panel. make sure you unplug and plug in the correct wires....

I thought that would be it, but after doing that you need to fine adjust the whole assembly so that the timers and automatic switches work well.

That's about it.

Cleaned the cavities. Lubed them with olive oil. Inserted one ball on left side, while holding tension against that side to hold the ball in the lid and top indentations. Applied olive oil to right hand side indentation, and placed the new ball into lid indentation. Put lid down into closure cavity with ball, and with lid vertical, began pushing it rearward so as toslightly spring metal lid rolled edge and top metal away from one another UNTIL the new ball snapped into the hinge indentation in the machine cover. Done.

Unplug from electrical outlet.Unscrewed control panel and laid it open. The switch is in 2 parts. Removed wires and unscrewed each switch. Put wires back on and tightened switch back to mounting plate. No brainer. Tried washer and worked perfectly. Two tips: Check fuse on plate to make sure it isn't burned out before ordering any parts. Secondly when installing if you have older model washer there is a nib that sticks up on mounting plate that keeps the switch from installing correctly. Cut this nib off with a wire cutter and then install. The directions don't mention that.

Removed top. Removed agitator and tubs . Replaced seals and reassembled.

Had to look up how to pop the front panel off the washing machine - that was the hardest part. Once that was off, the top unbolted and the cover came off the back of the control panel with a few screws. Tilting the washer-top back, I was able to clip the new upper and lower injector (attached to each other in advance) to the washing machine. Then I realized that I needed to clamp the water line to the injector FIRST - so I found a small screw clamp and attached the water line. One screw and one plastic tab hold the injector in place. Everything went back together fine and worked great! Maytag washer keeps on truckin for another ten years!

I removed the top cover that has the controls .Then started to voltage check the circuit (diagram was inside top cover) starting from L1 (had power cord pluged in) noted power was not going through the Check switch after tapping on the switch it started to work. the switch was intermitent so replaced with a new one from your company. works good now .Greg Gran

Could not repair. The gearbox on the agitator was broken and that kept the agitator from working. Do not assume it is a belt problem on a washer built in 1987.

I followed the instructions on this website to a T. You can take the front cover off and you will notice a small drip from the tub area where the Hub bearings (above the tranny) meets the washing tub. Once you've identified that the leak is indeed coming from that area and not a loose tube. Allow the washer to complete the job and drain the water. Then simply unplug washing machine before starting the process of the repair. It is very important to remember that you must have a spanner wrench before attempting to perform this repair. keywords=spanner+wrench came within two days with Prime Shipping. Also be sure to order the replacement parts from this site. It takes about 3 days to arrive however so be prepared to be without a washer for a few days. Other than that just follow the instructions provided and there is a very good step-by-step video on this site .

I removed the lid switch assembly and replaced it with the new lid switch assembly. The assembly included the lid switch, lid. check switch, and fuse. It came as one complete part.

well i first put on 2 new belts because they were worn and smoking. the new belts did not fix the problem. you suggested putting in a new pulley. it went against my better judgement that the pulley was defective. well i put in the new pulley and now the real problem has surfaced. the transmission is not working. now i want to order a new tranny and low and behold it is no longer available. well why did you sell me a $99 pulley when that was not the next part to change after the belts were replaced. now i have a new pulley on a washer that is going to the recycle center as metal trash. well on my part i will reward maytag by buying a ge washer now. plus i will not count on using you as my parts supplier.

Removed the bottom belts to inspect. Belt for tub was well beyond it's service life. Belt for pump was OK. ordered the pair and replaced. When the washer was started the agitator still did not move. With power off I grabbed the agitator and pulled upward a few times then twisted it from side to side a few times. No change. Then I did the same with it with powered up ( a bit dangerous ). The agitator then ran OK.