MAH20PRDWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Followed the instructions that were supplied with the Lip Seal Kit, for removal of the inner drum. As expected, once into the project, I found that the bearings that are part of the outer drum, were bad. Reading other installation blogs, prior to starting, I knew the bearing sizes, 6206-2RS & 6207-2RS, and I purchased the bearings, from Motion Industries, before starting the project. Taking a hammer and long 1/2" socket extension I was able to remove both the inner and outer bearings form the outer drum. (Bearings were all but seized up) Once I had cleaned up the aluminum hub which is part of the outer drum and where the bearings mount, I was able to start the process of installing the new bearings and completing the project. Timing could not have been any better to take on this repair project because the aluminum hub was showing major signs of corrosion on the inner side of the hub. I was concerned that the new lip seal would not seal off the inner drum from the bearings/outer durm. This project was competed on 8/21/12 and so far and 6 loads later I have not found any leaks.

I referenced the enclosed instructions, and U tube videos, along with gasket I also changed the bearings for about $40. From local grainger, it seems to have solved problem, thanks for quick shipping,

The whole thing is on YouTube beating out bearings was the only difficult part

after getting the washer apart and notice that the inner andd outer bearing were bad, I had to beat out the bearing because they were rusted in. after getting the bearings out the washer went together quite easily. It runs like new again.

Removed tub replaced bearings. Put in new seal. Be aware drawing on instruction shows seal cup instaled from wrong side of seal. Other wise went well. Got bearings from McMaster Carr.

Accessing the bearing housing was quite easy and the PartSelect videos were quite informative. Upon removing the lip seal the bearings obviously needed to be replaced. The bearings needed to be purchased from a local supplier and we used Grainger #6L028 (rear bearing) and #6L029 (front bearing). We needed to apply a generous amount of Liquid Wrench and used a long drive punch pin and a 3-jaw pilot bearing puller to remove the bearings. After removing the rear bearing we broked the puller on the front bearing, but were able to remove with the punch pin with the access created at the rear of the drum. Reinstalling the bearings was text book, we used a long bolt with large washers to pull the front and rear bearings together, with the spacer inserted between them.

My first time attempted to repair washer and step by step video instruction attached with order confirmation did it for me. Thank you

When I found the WAX motor would not cycle I applied 120VAC directly to the WAX motor and machine went into SPIN CYCLE as it should have. Stopped machine and ordered replacement Machine Control Board. Replaced the part and machine works perfectly.

I watched the provided video that EXCELLENTLY showed the replacement of the part. Then I was able to complete the task with no trouble at all

Unplug washer.Take off front panel by removing several screws. Lift up top after removing left and right side hold down bracket. Remove wax motor(brown item on left) The rotating latch will be free to remove and replace with new items. Don't forget to reattach spring. I found that my latch was not fully engaging with the teeth slightly misaligned. The locked light was on however there are two switches. One to control the lock light and one which enables the final spin to occur. After the items were changed unit ops normally. Also fast delivery (2 day) regular shipping!

I thought for sure the washer was toast! Thankfully, due to your website it was an easy 26.00 fix. Husband took care of the repair in about a half an hour. He did not encounter any problems with the fix and it's running like a charm!

I read the reviews from others fixing this same part, it didn't seem to difficult. It was not even hard at all. I installed the part and my washer does not leak at all. My Neptunes are old so I am very sure I will come back to buy parts here. I did install the hinges backwards at first, the didnt close so I had to take an extra five minutes to turn them around.

The machine had the old style boot drain hose with built-in bellows. The constant flexing of this tube caused a small crack in one of the bellows that gradually increased in size over time, causing water to leak into the bottom front part of the machine. Repair accomplished by removing the door (crosspoint screws), the retangular panel above the apron over the door, the apron above the door (5/16 socket), and the front lower panel (crosspoint screws). Pliers used to open the spring hose clamps, old leaky tube removed (re-use the rubber clearance washer that is on the tube). New tube installed easily, then panels reinstalled. 10 minutes total.

Unplugged, removed back, removed hose, removed pump. Reversed the order and plugged it back in. Walla! Do'n wash again. Parts Select is the way to go.

Remove the back panel (4 screws). Use screw driver to loosen the bands. I had to tilt the washer up on a block to "twist" the part free. Once you see the bottom of the washer, you can see how the pump attaches and how to free it from the mount. The hardest part of the job was trying to get the hoses back on using one hand. That was a hard task. I used the shop vac to suck up the water that came pouring out of the drum once I loosened the bands. Not a hard repair. Unfortunately this did not fix my issue, but I wasn't going to go through hooking the old pump back up. (Was the far more expensive timing board that was faulty)