LAT9316AAE Maytag Washer - Instructions

I disconnected both water hoses from the back of the machine. I then unscrewed the panel that holds the water inlet valve. After disconnecting the two electrical connections from the valve and replacing it with the new unit, the job was done.

Power cord out, of course.Popped off the front panel, swinging bottom outward. Wedge shaped protrusions on top of front panel work as a hinge until the bottom is swung out and the entire front lowered. Unscrewed the top--one screw in each front corner accessed from the front opening (removed panel). Panel behind control panel must be removed (5 hex head screws). Tilted front of top up revealing broken injector. Retaining screw for injector accessible from behind control panel loosened and broken injector assembly removed. New (easily assembled--snap together) injector slid into holding slot on one side and screwed down with previously removed hex screw. Reassemble in reverse.

Good.

I checked out the reason why it was not providing hot water then went to this site and found out that it was most likely a water intake valve. I am hardly a do-it-yourselfer, but after watching the "how to" video, I figured why not? The valve arrived in two days, and it was quite easy to do. We now have hot water again.

I went to the Internet and saw how to pry the front panel off the washer. This gave me access to the two belts and four pulleys underneath the washer; a pair for the Drive and a pair for the Pump. There was enough slack in the original belts that they came off with minimal effort. The new belts were easy enough to install. It took a mere seconds to install the new Spacers on the Front panel of the cabinet. The most time consuming portion of the project was getting the washer turned out of its tight corner to get access to the clips on the bottom of the front panel.

Removed the front panel. Then blocked up the front of the machine. Removed the pump belt. Removed the 3 5/16" screws from the bottom of the old one and tilted it slightly to remove. Put the new one in and reinstalled the 3 screws. Put the belt back on and slid new pump all the way to the right and tightened 1 screw. Loosened the screw until there was about 1/4" of gap when squeezed the belt together. Tightened the one screw, then the other 2. Put the front panel back on and lowered the machine. New pump works great.

It was as simple as leaning the machine back far enough so I could get to the belts - which were on the bottom. The diagrams that came with the ordered parts were right on. This is the first time I have attempted this myself - my repairman has retired - I'm sure I will do it again.

Unplug the washing machine , disconnect the water hoses, and remove two screws. Then remove the bracket and valve from its area. Remove the electrical connections and the small hose, and then reverse the procedures with the new water valve.Plug the washing machine electrical cord in , and hopefully savor the positive results.

Frist remover the two screws from washer front. The ones that are about 5 inches from the floor. Pulled front cover toward me and removed. The hose was right in the front that was cracked. It was held on by two hose clamps. I just removed the old and put in the new. No more water on the floor. Shipping was fast for the hose too. They said that if they recieved the order by 3pm it would be shipped the same day. I order at 3:01pm Sat. recieved Tuesday.

Took off the top rear off the washer, Removed the top control section,disconnected the wire harness, snaped out the old switch and installed the new one, connected the wire harness, put everything back together, and it was working again!

Followed the procedures recommended for replacement of all the parts included in the Tub Bearing Kit and the Mounting Stem/Tub Seal kit as illustrated in a detailed, 32 minute repair video for the Maytag A606 washer which is available on YouTube. Many difficulties were experienced in the disassembly procedures due to extensive corrosion of tub bearing and tub stem parts (the washer is 47 years old).
I was not successful in using a special tub wrench that was purchased to break loose the old tub mounting stem and its threaded lock nut. The old tub mounting stem, lock nut, and the tub bearing race had to be cut off the threaded support shaft using a saws-all electric tool. Finally, corrosion on the edge of the tub caused problems with water leaks once the tub top and its rubber tub seal ring were reinstalled and the washer was put back into operation. The bottom line is that it may be questionable to attempt major repairs on washers that are 40+ years old and have any extensive corrosion in internal, mechanical parts.

I didn't know it was a timer problem, so had called a repair firm. He diagnosed the problem quickly, then said it would 2 weeks to get a part, and then $140 to install it. His part cost was $150.

I asked him to leave it disassembled and looked at buying a new washer. After seeing they cost approximately $1000 I figured it was worth the risk to try to make the repair myself.

The top of the control handle popped off easily with a screwdriver, and the little metal clip came off with a screwdriver to pry it off. I gently removed the other control plastic pieces to ensure the spring did not go flying.

The old timer came off with the use of a socket though a screwdriver woudl have worked, I was worried about stripping the screws.

The new timer came within 5 days, including a weekend, faster than the service company supposedly could get it.

The timer had one part that needed to be inserted into a gear, and the metal clips needed to be bent down a bit to keep it inserted. I had the old timer to look at, this took 2 minutes to figure out, and 15 seconds to accomplish.

I attached the ground wire and then placed the timer where it goes and started to put the screws back in. I removed it again and started the screws on a flat service to get the threading started properly, removed the screws and then attached it easily to the washer.

Putting all the other small parts back only took a couple minutes.

I had not watched the repair person remove the back plate, so figuring out where the screws went took some time as there were 14 holes and 7 screws. If I had taken the back off it would have been trivial.

I plugged it back in and it has run fine for over 20 loads since I replaced the part last week.

I would make sure you mark where the screws go, and keep the old timer until the new one is working. I would also look to see where the ground wire goes before removing the old one.

A cup of coffee, a couple tools, and you are set within 45 minutes of the new part arriving. I also took advantage of moving the machine to clean up around the back and underneath, a little time and a lot of dirt.

Since the washer is 28 years old, my first impulse was to rush out and buy a new one. However, I'm a DYI'er and I figured what do I have to loose by taking the front panel off (I had seen this done by the Maytag Repairman) and checking things out. After removing the two screws located near the bottom front of the panel, I pulled out on the bottom and the panel easily came off. I couldn't see any evidence of leaking water so I thought, "what would the Maytag Man do next". I figured "he'd run through a cycle to see if he could find the leak" so that's what I did. Sure enough, as soon as the spin and drain cycle came on, the source of the leak became apparent. There is a slight vibration during the spin which caused the hose to fail.

I then got on my computer, Googles "repair parts for Maytag Washer" and found Parts Select.Com. I was surprised (to say the least) to find the part I needed in stock. I place my order on Sunday morning and the part was delivered the following Wednesday afternoon. I installed the hose and replaced the front panel and was washing a load of jeans within 20 minutes.

I appreciate the service provided by Parts Select and will be ordering again when the need arises.

Tom Nelson
Fort Worth, TX

Switch material hardened due to old age & broke easily when force fitted. Ordered parts online & in two business day it arrived.

First open the lid & removed the side latch with screw driver carefully. Checked the length of the new plunger with the old one with respect to length & compare the stroke. Slide fit the switch & rectified the play in the plunger pusher with super glue.

Disconnected power. Then I removed the cover to the console on the back to gain access to the lid switch. Removed the switch assembly by hand and disconnected from electrical plug on machine. Attached new assembly unit to plug and reinserted new assembly onto machine. Reattached cover to console.