MAT12CSAGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

This is a coin-op washer so the timer had to be removed through the coin box. The top lid was first removed from the coin box. There is one 5/16 hex head screw holding the timer in. After removing the screw the timer was lifted from the box. It is a tight fit that requires some wiggling around of the timer. There are two plug in wire harnesses attached to the timer. Because of the position of the timer the wires are a little short, but are able to be unplugged. The new timer was installed and the procedure reversed.

First I had to hold the balls into the little holes on the side of the lid - one at a time- and tap the plastic ball into the side with a small hammer. I did the same with the other side. Silde the lid to match the holes located on the washing machine - give a little push to make sure that the balls are in place. You have your lid fixed to your machine where you can lift the lid and it will stay up without falling.

Note: If the balls fall out - make sure to tap a little harder so that the balls stay in place.

It was as simple as leaning the machine back far enough so I could get to the belts - which were on the bottom. The diagrams that came with the ordered parts were right on. This is the first time I have attempted this myself - my repairman has retired - I'm sure I will do it again.

The instructions were clear. Did every step. Did 2 loads so far and everything works like new.

Took off the top rear off the washer, Removed the top control section,disconnected the wire harness, snaped out the old switch and installed the new one, connected the wire harness, put everything back together, and it was working again!

I went to the Internet and saw how to pry the front panel off the washer. This gave me access to the two belts and four pulleys underneath the washer; a pair for the Drive and a pair for the Pump. There was enough slack in the original belts that they came off with minimal effort. The new belts were easy enough to install. It took a mere seconds to install the new Spacers on the Front panel of the cabinet. The most time consuming portion of the project was getting the washer turned out of its tight corner to get access to the clips on the bottom of the front panel.

Switch material hardened due to old age & broke easily when force fitted. Ordered parts online & in two business day it arrived.

First open the lid & removed the side latch with screw driver carefully. Checked the length of the new plunger with the old one with respect to length & compare the stroke. Slide fit the switch & rectified the play in the plunger pusher with super glue.

Disconnected power. Then I removed the cover to the console on the back to gain access to the lid switch. Removed the switch assembly by hand and disconnected from electrical plug on machine. Attached new assembly unit to plug and reinserted new assembly onto machine. Reattached cover to console.

iremove the two screws that is on the lid and then ipulled that out then secound step remove the part is on the back were is the suit of the washer machine were is the hoses of the water hot and cold its berry easy to do it your self thank you

I used two vise grip wrenches in place of specialized tool that is no longer available. I put the vice grip wrenches on the brake assembly and hit them alternately with a hammer. I also used penetrating oil.

Note, the parts package stated made in USA but the bearings had China stamped on them.

Removed the front panel. Then blocked up the front of the machine. Removed the pump belt. Removed the 3 5/16" screws from the bottom of the old one and tilted it slightly to remove. Put the new one in and reinstalled the 3 screws. Put the belt back on and slid new pump all the way to the right and tightened 1 screw. Loosened the screw until there was about 1/4" of gap when squeezed the belt together. Tightened the one screw, then the other 2. Put the front panel back on and lowered the machine. New pump works great.

Found noise to be belt slapping the base sheet metal, from being too loose. Belt was loose because the drive pulley was worn and one side of pulley was loose! Used allen wrench to loosen the pulley set screw, and pryed off the old pulley. Replace d with new pulley and new belts. Works and sounds like new!

Lets just say thank god for part select!!!! # 1 By far. This was a one two three job.

Took a look at the new door switch assembly, used a socket wrench to remove the old, took wires off of old and attached them to the corresponding terminal on the new. attached the new assembly inside the top panel. Works!

After turning the water off and unplugging the machine, I took the front panel off the washing machine. I then slipped the belt off the pump sprocket. The pump was right in the front and easy to remove. All I needed was a screwdriver, for the hose clamps, and a 5/16" socket to remove the old pump. I then installed the new pump, with the existing screws, re-attached the 2 hoses, slipped the belt back on, and popped the front panel back into place. The new pump works great and the leak is gone. The whole job onlt took about 30 minutes.