PAV3100AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I pretty much followed the video,and read some of the other comments on how to do it. I only had one problem, the back panel had an opening of about 14"x14" to access the 2 rear balance springs. I finally laid the machine on it's face,so I didn't have to kneel down.The only problem with that,is the tub falls forward, making the springs farther away from the upper hole to attach/stretch, the springs to remove/install. I cured that problem by cutting a wedge out of a piece of 2x4, and stuck it between the top edge of the tub & upper frame. Worked great,held the tub in position, closer to the springs & locating holes. Taking them off is no problem,installing them, was made easier by using the wedge. The parts were a perfect fit, no more 'walking away from the wall' now! Thanks PartSelect

used video provided on repair procedure.

On a scale of 1 to 5 (with 5 being the most difficult), I would rate this a 2 or 3. It is just a matter of knowing how to access the pump. First I unplugged the washer. Then used putty knife to push in clips to lift up top of washer (the clips are located about 1 inch in from each side). Used socket to remove the two screws holding on front panel. Disconnected the two hoses from pump using pliers to squeeze clips (be sure to have cup or bowl handy because water will come out of the hoses). Lifted up washer and removed belt from pump. Used socket wrench to remove pump and replace with new one. Reattached hoses and belt. Reattached front panel and closed the top of the washer. Everything was easy to access.

Hving read some of the tips in regards to this repair I set out with equal parts of confidence & apprehension. The advice of shifting the tub toward the hinge to be removed is in itself the key to the whole procedure. After having done so & wedging a dust pan handle between the tub & frame to first one side & then the other, I removed the entire lid with the hinge & hinge pin assys. attached as ther is not sufficient clearance to slide a servicable hinge pin from a hinge when only one hinge has beeen removed. With the lid completely removed access to the hinge pin(s) is straight forward. I suggest screwing & unscrewing the fastening screw into a new hinge assy before mounting the hinge onto the machine & also using an offset philips screwdriver or ,as I did, a 1/4" drv. ratchet with a #2 philips apex bit which allows for a better feel & more control over the upside down blind operation of removing & replacing the fastening screw into the hinge assy. Hope this helps. Tom

unscrewed screw holding old actuater in and replaced it whith the new part.

Unlike most videos, mine had a solid frame, no access panels. Following, is my disassembly & repair: I disconnected the water supply lines and drain hose. I slid the washer out into the center of the garage & removed the 9 base screws from the base plate. I slid the frame away from the base, leaving the working parts exposed. After pulling the working mechanisms from the outer frame, I turned it (drum, transmission & base) upside down. I used a pair of vise grips, pinched them onto each spring & removed them, using a downward motion it was a lot easier. I placed the base plate aside, removed 3 opposing screws holding the snubber ring & put 3 longer 8-32 screws in to hold the brake assembly. Then I removed the 3 remaining screws, lifted the plate & replaced the ring. Then I reversed the process, replacing the old springs with new ones & finished the job in about 2 hours.

Actually I got on YouTube and looked up the problem and watch the short video of it and went from there and it showed me how to take everything apart what the problems were and as I did take it apart and found out it was exactly what they said I simply reversed it just ordered the parts and put them in and took my time to make sure that everything was to specs as I've measured the clearance of the break and said all the hardware back in place it was quite simple yet it was just time consuming took me about two and a half hours but it runs quiet spins great just like a brand new one I couldn't be more pleased with it and I saved quite a bit of money doing it myself

I checked the belt 1st. It didn't look like it could be the problem, but it needs replacement anyway. Replacing belt is very easy, this 1 is at the bottom of the washer.

1. Unplug washer.
2. Move it away from the wall.
3. Tilt washer back & support the bottom front with lumber.
4. You can see the belt looped around 3 pulleys. Water pump in the back. The motor is in the right front & is spring loaded.
5. Grab the motor pulley & push it back as far as it will go, & remove the belt from it.
6. Do the reverse to install new belt.

There is a Brake Rotor & Lining Assy on this washer. I looked up the part on this web site, sure enough somebody else had this same problem. Part is on order. If this is not the fix, I will revise this posting later.

First I lifted the top of the washer to get access to the screws that held the hinges in place, unscrewed them, removed the broken hinges and put the new ones on, replaced the screws and closed the top. It was very easy. I was amazed that I could still get replacement parts and at such a great price, less than $15.00 with shipping!

The hardest part was finding the model # on the back. I couldn't move the washer out...so used a mirror! I used a putty knife to pop the 2 fasteners securing the top. Tilted it up & proped with a plastic clothes hanger. Unscrewed the one screw which is easy to get to with the top up. Replaced the hinge with the 1 screw. Closed the top. Gave the broken hinge to my wife as an early Mother's Day present.

First, I unplugged the washer.

then, I used a small prybar to pop open the front top of the waher. It's hinged at the back top edge. I drew a rough sketch of the four color coded connecting wires so I could disconnect the old water inlet valve and replace it the same way with the new one.
( just in case I lost track of which wire went where.)

I cut off the water supply for both the hot and cold water, (you can also cut off the water main,) then diconnected the supply hoses--noting where the hot water was connected, and where the cold water connected. Maytag had cut out a "C" and
a "H" our of the back wall of the washer,
to assist with hose installation.

I unscrewed the two hex nuts holding the old inlet valve to the back wall of the washer. ( from the outside back of the machine.) and pulled the old inlet valve up to the top of the machine. I didn't remove the basket that holds the laundry, so it was a kind of tight workspace.

Once you reconnect the wires to the new water inlet valve, attach the inlet valve to the washer wall, and reconnect the hoses, it's done. It's pretty simple.

took back off washer with nutdriver, pulled wires off by hand, ( was unplugged ). pliars used to remove hose, regular clamp put back on. reinstalled back plugged in, tested water,,,, done

Followed the excellent utube instructions you provide. Piece of cake when I followed the video. The rear springs became much more difficult because my model does not have rear access panel. They were the only stuggle. Thank you for doing the repair videos

removed rear acess panel and used pliers to remove leaking hose then reinstalled new hose..

The repair was easy. I had to unscrew on bolt, place the agitator assemply on and screw the bolt back down. Simple , Sear was gonna charge 175.00 just to ship the part. I got the part for $57.00.