A23CDL Maytag Washer - Instructions

My washing machine would only run hot water. Told my husband and we were ready to call the repair man when I suggested we try to order a part. So I Googled "washing machine repair". Clicked on the first sight I saw and 'searched 'no cold water' amd immediately saw explanation of our exact problem. The solution explained that MOST of the time the problem was the water inlet valve. So I ordered the part. My husband put the part on the machine and the process would have taken less than 10 minutes however the clamp was so rusted to broke and that required a trip to the hardware store. But I suppose clamp-life does not exceed 20 years. So mission accomplished and a great big thanks to all those who explained what they did to solve the problem!

1. Unplug machine.
2. Removed front cover,(2 screws).
3. Removed top cover,(2 screws).
4. Remove hose at top (twist lock), loosen clap holding hose at bottom.
5. Reverse procedure, attach clamp at bottom, attach hose at top(twist lock).
6. Plug in machine, turn on (fill), check for leaks.
7. Re-attach top
8. Re-attach front.

Instead of replacing one damage hose, i decided to replace the whole piece. the second hose was old and i figure ill just take care of one problem now and prevent a future problem. it was as simple and quick, save me some money from hiring a repair man. it was also a learning experience.

Did repair as instructed by video, I'm 74 years old if I can do it anybody can!

Removed top. Removed agitator and tubs . Replaced seals and reassembled.

unplug machine ,shut off water supply,Removed 2 lower front panel screws ,raise panel upward "hinge type motion"and removed , Remove 2 self tapping screws from under front corners, removed liquid bleach tube from upper connector ,raise top toward back of machine , place prop "piece of wood" to hold top up,removed 1 screw attaching injector ,now replaced injector assy and install with new hoses and clamps. then assemble in reverse order

simply removed old motor and replaced with new

Remove the power cord and water hoses. Lay the machine on the floor. Remove two belts (washing and pumping). Unlock the screw of pulley using a hex key. Remove the broken pulley from the motor. Place in the new pulley. Lock the screw of the pulley. Install two belts. Turn the machine vertically. Plug in water hoses and power cord. Level the machine.

After removing the front cover and tilting up the top of the washer housing, the area of leakage was obvious. I unscrewed the clear plastic injector housing, loosened the clamp, slid the hose off of the clear plastic injector housing, and removed the plastic injector nozzle and the rubber injector valve.

I then order the plastic injector nozzle and the rubber injector valve. After the parts arrived, I simply put things back together, and no more leak!

Note: When putting the plastic injector nozzle into the rubber injector valve, I used a little liquid detergent as a lube.

The three parts fit together to form one unit. As has been mentioned here already I'm not sure what purpose they serve. I'm also not sure how replacing them stopped the leak but it did. If it had not stopped I think I could have bypassed the valve entirely with a piece of hose or PVC and had it work just fine.

I followed the instructions on this website to a T. You can take the front cover off and you will notice a small drip from the tub area where the Hub bearings (above the tranny) meets the washing tub. Once you've identified that the leak is indeed coming from that area and not a loose tube. Allow the washer to complete the job and drain the water. Then simply unplug washing machine before starting the process of the repair. It is very important to remember that you must have a spanner wrench before attempting to perform this repair. keywords=spanner+wrench came within two days with Prime Shipping. Also be sure to order the replacement parts from this site. It takes about 3 days to arrive however so be prepared to be without a washer for a few days. Other than that just follow the instructions provided and there is a very good step-by-step video on this site .

The repair itself is fairly simple. However, being 65 years old getting the new valve back into the back opening of the washer and screwed in was a challenge. The clamp on the water connector hose broke and I had to drive to the store to replace it. You may want to consider giving a heads-ups option of ordering hose clamps to DIYers, when you go to order. Also, the instructions that came with the part was not totally accurate. I had to rotate the cylinders outward to connect to the electrical points. But, my machine is pretty old and that may be why. Otherwise, I am very pleased with how quick I received the part and it was exactly what I ordered. My washing machine is back in business. Thank you

After figuring out how to open the washer I could not find where the leaking water had come from. I ran the washer without the front cover (cold water) and it didn't leak. When I finally accidentally blocked the intake on the tub did it squirt out inside the washer. It turned out that it would only leak with both hot and cold water combined was the pressure big enough to leak. The place it leaked was about halfway between the intake valve and where it entered the tub in what looked like a small plastic housing with slots. The functionality of this thing is still in question. I call it the Kazoo because it makes noise so you can tell the water is going in. I can see that it also holds back pressure so the washer does not fill too fast if the incoming pressure is too high, but I have my doubts about this. It turns out the intake hose is interrupted with by a jet inside a 3 inch black rubber tube (valve) that extends into the second hose. The water pressure expands the rubber (valve)and makes noise. The way I see it old rubber had maybe shrunk and lost its ability to resist pressure so it overflowed because too much water was coming through. The new piece I ordered was 3/8 inch longer then the one that came out. Maybe a planned obsolence part. (My wife wanted to buy a new washer and dryer at the first sign of trouble.) Anyway the repair was pretty simple. No clamps needed the old one is easy to undo and you just replace the kazoo. By the way while I was waiting on the parts to get here I just throttled the water pressure on the wall so it wouldn't leak. On this maytag washer you take off the screws on the front towards the bottom to start. I did not notice them untill I had damn destroyed the lid. After you remove the front cover there are 2 screws in the top front corners to remove and the the top pops off. They repair is easy understanding it took some thinking. Good luck.

Removed tubs per prescribed videos. Removed transmission per video. Disassembled transmission per video. Used heat and penetrating oil to free top shaft. Lubricated top shaft and bushings with grease and reinstalled. Reassembled washer with replacement parts from partselect. Problem solved. My wife loves this washer. It lasted 30 years before I had issues, many of the internals looked brand new. They dont make' m like this anymore. With the self- help videos, and OEM parts from partselect, I'll get another 30, Thank you so much.

Layed the machine on it'sback and put the 2 belts on the pulleys,Very easy ,when you know to put the machine on it's backside!