MAV8600AWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

Read DIY review from William, Middleton, OH on 01-15-08. Tip on how to relieve spring pressure on brake assembly worked like a dream (3ea 10-24X2 bolts/machine screws). Replaced brake and machine works like new and was an inexpensive fix. Once the shell/housing is off the machine, tub can be turned upside down and the base doesn't need to be removed. White powder under machine was a plastic wear ring that tells you when your brake rotor needs to be changed. Brake rotor still had lining but was much thinner than replacement part. Note* Use putty knife to push in clips on front to release the top lid section.

First I took the front shield off, then I took the motor off.

just took the front off and then took the old motor off and switched over about 2 parts from the old to the new and then put the new part on and then placed the front back on and it was ready to go

Needed a medium extension and a rachet a screw driver and a 13mm socket. I used a short screw driver and inserted in it the softer container and lifted it strait up to get the softner container out of the way. I used the medium extension to reach in the auger and loosen the small bolt holding the auger on the machine. Pulled it up and out. Reversed the above procedure and it was set to go. Total time about 8 to 10 minutes. Thank for all the help Kudos to all including Susan W.

just unplug the power , disconnect the wire from lid switch ,slide the lid switch assembly out off the switch housing . Then reverse the action I just did above and the machine work again.

it took a little longer to fix the lid switch becasue the you have to figure out how to install the switch after you takethe old one out. The old one popped out but the new one needs some twisting and pressure. It also is an ackward position to work in on the back of the washer front the front. I think the instructions could have been much better by warning the installer to pay attention when you take the old one out. But it worked and we fixed the problem for $22 and four days of waiting for the part.

Removed old agitator, and installed new one. Very easy.

1. ) Pulled washer away from wall 2. ) Disconnected power and removed supply hoses from valve 3. ) Removed valve mounting bracket from washer. With 8mm socket 4. ) Disconnected wiring harnesses from valve and removed valve from bracket with phillips screwdriver. 5. ) Installed new valve and completed repair in reverse order.

On this particular model #MAV7550AWW Maytag washer, you do not remove a back panel since it is a three sided case. I first disconnected power and hoses from wall. Removed the belt from under the machine (you need to tilt the machine). To access the water pump you need to remove the front panel by first sliding a putty knife between the top of the machine and the panel slide it in about 2 inches from the edge to release the latch, repeat the procedure on the other side. On the inside or the panel about 2 inches there is a nut on either side once you remove both the front panel unlatches easily, from the bottom two latches. The water pump is located on the right front of the bottom plate. it is held in by three nut screws, (have plenty of towels to catch the water that is released once you disconnect the two hoses that are on the pump. The replacement part (made in the USA) is all plastic but fits perfectly. We Replaced the pump and reconnected everything. There is a video here on this site the explains in detail the removal and placement of the drive belt. The job is very simple to do. I am a woman under 5ft and I did this repair with the help of my son (17yr old). The machine is good as new. Second repair I have done on the machine and with a lot of savings!.

I opened up the control panel on the back by removing the 4 screws and then used the print that was inside to check where the power went from the power cord. I checked the power at diferent places and determined that I did not have power coming from the lid switch with the door up or down. You could here the switch click when you opened and closed the door but aperantly it was not working. After going on your web site and looking at the other posts I realixed that there was a fuse link in the switch that was probably blown. I ordered the switch and it was a simple matter to replace when it arrived. The washer works great once more.

took off front of washer , took off hose clamp removed old hose . replaced with new hose clamped back on put on front cover ran washer check for any leakes. done and done

first remove drive belt then then remove dust cover on bottom of shaft take 5/16 nut driver to only 4 of the screws off that hold the brake cover on install 4 5/16 screws 1" long in those 4 spots.reomve rest of screws then slowly reomve back out 1" screws to relve spring pressure from brake pad.install all new parts from partsselect.com then install other part taken off in oreder and make your wife very happy

Three screws removed that hold dial panel to top of washer. Remove timer cap and lock pin, then knob. Remove circuit board and connectors. Remove two screws holding timer to panel. swap out old timer for new one, reverse order to put back together.

I did a continuity check on the lid switch assembly since it was a) the easist to get to, and b) my wife's descreiption of how rthe washer stopped made me think it had something to do with the lid switch.
I found that all of the contacts were open regardless of the position of the switch, and I also discovered that there was a fuse inside the swithch. I decided to order a replacement part based on the presence of the fuse.
Upon repacling the fuse (a snap in affair), the washer was working again... my wife was impressed and I was happy!

I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.