2DMTW5705TW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Unbalanced load was creating a knocking sound (as if the clothes load was unbalanced). Dismantled the washer to find that one brackets had rusted out. [FYI: 3 bracket at 120 degree apart (for the 360 degree circle)]. I found that the hole (on the bracket) where the spring holds was gone. Purchased parts. Replaced them (spring, bracket, screw). Reassembled washer then ran wash for a cycle. Successful fix.

Although your website mentioned removing 2 screws to open the control panel, it took a while to realize there were 2 screws and 2 hex nut screws to open it followed by 15 minutes of efforts to release the control panel from the top of the washer by sliding it forward. After that it took 2 minutes to replace the switch; the web comment of keeping the lid open was helpful.
Unfortunately, the lid switch was not the problem; replacing the timer did the trick, was very easy with the control panel already opened and required the purchase of 1/4 and 3/16 hex nut drivers.
Parts, shipping and tools cost $110 but the success of the repair with your parts and advice was priceless.

Remove the main bolts that hold the gearbox in place, pull the gearbox and shaft out. You will see the brake shoes and drum--the large spring is a struggle to replace. Getting it out was not hard. The biggest struggle I had was replacing the brake shoe spring after replacing the shoes. I ultimately compressed the spring in a vise, then used safety wired it, then placed it between the shoes, then cut the wire to relaease the spring.

Removed softner dispenser, removed bolt on top of agitater,replaced parts supplied with repair kit.
Directions were inclosed in package that were easy to follow.I ordered Thrust spacer not knowing it was included in repair kit.

I WAS VERY PLEASED WITH YOUR WEB SITE AND DELIVERY TIME.

First I removed the two screws holding the main controller located on the back. I then slide forward the hole controller and I pulled out. Disconnected switch located on your left. (remember to place down washing machine lid before installing the new switch.)

Washer is 29 years old. Found that tub spring hooks into a simple (non-reinforced) hole in the base frame, and it had worn the hole through through the edge of the frame (key hole style). Due to age and low cost of parts, ordered all suspension springs, brackets, & pads. Once they arrived, took the tubs out (first time for that), found that the suspension pads looked fine, but the wear pads showed a lot of wear and the front one was snapped in the middle, perhaps an after effect of the spring failure. From my lack of attention, initially tried to get front pad into the wrong set of holes, a bad fit; corrected. Simply drilled a near-by hole in the base frame for the tub spring.

While the tubs were out, took them outside and scrubbed them clean. Also cleaned agitator parts using bottle brushes. Followed the PartSelect videos and owner comments for procedures, methods. Found that some miss some important info, but if you watch others you can combine the info to find what you need re disassembly/assembly.

At one point while attempting to remove the outer tub, did not realize that the screw that holds the rear spring bracket to the tub also holds the tub to the suspension plate.

Took me most of a day for the whole process, and I ended up with pulled/spasmic muscles from all the bending over, mostly from cleaning parts I think. Very helpful to have the parts breakout drawings, videos, others' experience.

before ordering the parts, I pulled the cap of the agitator, removed some internal parts of the agitator - had to remove one hex head bolt, and noticed the threads on the 3 little teenie weenie plastic dogs were worn off. I bought the repair kit on line after entering the model number, parts were here in a few days, and the repair took about 15 minutes. Works like new again.

The directions provided with the parts were very clear and made the job quick, easy, and painless.

Three of the four agitator cogs had broken. The agitator was able to spin freely both clockwise encounter clockwise which it should not be doing. I replaced the cogs as well as a couple additional parts just to be sure but the cogs were the important one. Very easy.

Removed bolt holding top of agitator, removed top of agitator. Replaced parts. Reinstalled agitator. An old machine now works like a new model.

I had to take the motor and transmission out. They are one piece. Removed the clutch, take off trans. cover, remove a snap ring, take the striped gear off, and put the new one on. Then put put everything back on the way it came off.

First, I'm so excited that this site exists because I knew that the problem was minor and I didn't want to pay the outrageous housecall price of a repairman. I read other customers' experiences on how they fixed the problem and that made it sooo easy! Basically unscrewed the screws on the far left and right on the top panel, folded it down toward front, unscrewed and unplugged the ground wire and replaced the part. Someone else had warned that the lid should be open to remove it and that was a huge time-saver. Thanks so much! The part was broken because of very poor design. The part actually worked fine, but the piece of thin plastic that held the part in place broke. Back to the drawing board Whirlpool.

Read the directions in the repair kit first- a 7/16" socket and 10" extension is needed. Assembled new dogs on agitator "cup" and retainer, added marine(waterproof) grease to assembly washer, replaced bolt anyway and installed new o ring. Took less than 15 minutes-READ ALL DIRECTIONS FIRST!

I thought the click of the lid switch sounded different so I pulled the top console and tested it for continuity in both positions and found none. When I by-passed the switch the washer started up, so I knew what the problem was. There are four screws involved to remove the console which reveals the lid switch to the left side. There's a single screw for a ground wire but the switch itself is simply snapped in place after disconnecting the wire harness plug (must be done with the lid open btw).

I was lucky to diagnose the problem accurately so that the first thing I suspected turned out to be the problem!

I unsnapped the top of the mechanism and removed the agitor assembly, (I had already put together the new one,) I just had to unsrew the old one to get it out and screw in the new one. This took me less than 10 minutes from start to finish. My husband was away for the week and this was left up to me if I wanted it done. So I (a female) decided that I would attempt it.
A Piece of Cake. thanks to Parts Select, I have a few more years with this machine. I was really hating to purchase a new machine. So for less than $25.00 with no service call "I Fixed It!"

Removed top cap on agitator w/ flathead screwdriver. Removed protective cap over bolt and cog housing shaft. Used 7/16 deep socket w/ extension to remove bolt. Removed housing where stripped cogs were located. Cogs seated loosely in shaft housing no tools required to remove cogs. Replaced cogs in housing, made sure everything was lined correctly. re-inserted housing into shaft. ,screwed bolt, replaced caps and works like new.