MVW7232HW2 Maytag Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Emmett from WEATHERFORD, TX
- Parts Used:
- 40922
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Socket set
Needed to extend drain hose to reach drain
Ordered drain hose extender. It uses a rubber flange with hose clip to attach to washer's plastic hose. When tightened, the hose clip crushes the plastic hose and crimps it, causing a leak. My solution was to find a copper pipe flange that was the same diameter as the interior of the plastic hose to act as a bushing for the plastic hose. The hose clip could then be tightened without deforming the hose. Worked great with no leaks.
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- Customer:
- Derrick from WILSON, NC
- Parts Used:
- W11457841
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Door strike broke.
It easily installed with a twist lock removal and installation. 2 minute fix.
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- Customer:
- Susan from Clayton, NC
- Parts Used:
- W11400156
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Violent shaking of tub when spin
replaces all 4 suspension rods.
1. unplug machine.
Take a zip tie and attach the end to form a loop. Keep the loop as large as possible.
2. Remove 4 self tapping screws in back of machine top two are into the tabs, 1 in the washer top and 1 in the electrical cover.
3. Use plastic pry bar to elevate tabs under top on right and left sides. use the heel of your hand to tap the back of the top forward. Once it moves you will need to use the pry bar to help pop it up out of the tab. When both sides are loose and the top is free. It will tilt back. There are slots on the top that the tabs on the washer slide into to hold the top up. CAUTION: the lid is hinged and loose so either have it supported when it’s back or use tape to secure it shut.
4. At the 4 corners you will see where the suspension rods attach into the plastic cups. Use a screwdriver to pry up the hook until you can grab it with a pair of pliers. Lift the hook until it clears the plastic puck, remove the puck then let the hook fall into the hole.
5. If possible set a flashlight so you can see down to the bottom attach point of the suspension rods attach. Grab the rod about half way down the shaft, the push down. The assembly will break loose and drop to the bottom, then you can slide the rod out and remove it. NOTE: THE SPRING IS STRONG. WHEN YOU REMOVE THE ROD, THE TUB WILL NOT BE SUPPORTED AT THAT POINT, SO YOU WILL ALSO HAVE THE WEIGHT OF THE TUB TO CONTEND WITH WHEN YOU INSTALL THE NEW ROD.
6. Make sure the new rod assembly has the black retainer positioned on top of the spring and the white retainer is about 6” above.
7. Hold the new rod so you can put the bottom with the spring back into the plastic cup. Once it’s in, give the rod a tug to seat the spring in the holder. keep holding the rod. Grab the zip tie loop you made earlier. Place it on the top hook of the hook then hold the rod by the zip tie. Feed the tie through the top hole, insert the screwdriver through the zip tie and set over the hole to hold the rod in position. Get the holder cup assembly (outer ring and inner bracket).
8. Hold the zip tie, let it back through the hole, while holding it, position the outer cup, then pull the zip tie back through the hole, insert the center bracket watching the position so the stem clears the rod, then lift the zip tie and position the hook over the bracket. At this point you can either cut the zip tie and pull it out or pry up the hook on the rod until you can slip off the zip tie.
9. Let the rod seat into the cup bracket. I orient the hook so it faces outside. The first rod is in.
10. Repeat doing 1 rod at a time. Be prepared to bruise your arm reaching down into the washer as it’s close quarters. The spring is strong and the tub is heavy so you need some arm strength to do this with one arm. It isn’t difficult and you’ll do better on each successive rod.
11. When all the rods are in and set, ease the top back down, align the tabs, check the side tabs that they didn’t bend (if they did just bent them back in), make sure the top is out of the tabs, then shove the front to reset the top.
12. Reattach the 4 sheet metal screws to the top, plug it it and test.
1. unplug machine.
Take a zip tie and attach the end to form a loop. Keep the loop as large as possible.
2. Remove 4 self tapping screws in back of machine top two are into the tabs, 1 in the washer top and 1 in the electrical cover.
3. Use plastic pry bar to elevate tabs under top on right and left sides. use the heel of your hand to tap the back of the top forward. Once it moves you will need to use the pry bar to help pop it up out of the tab. When both sides are loose and the top is free. It will tilt back. There are slots on the top that the tabs on the washer slide into to hold the top up. CAUTION: the lid is hinged and loose so either have it supported when it’s back or use tape to secure it shut.
4. At the 4 corners you will see where the suspension rods attach into the plastic cups. Use a screwdriver to pry up the hook until you can grab it with a pair of pliers. Lift the hook until it clears the plastic puck, remove the puck then let the hook fall into the hole.
5. If possible set a flashlight so you can see down to the bottom attach point of the suspension rods attach. Grab the rod about half way down the shaft, the push down. The assembly will break loose and drop to the bottom, then you can slide the rod out and remove it. NOTE: THE SPRING IS STRONG. WHEN YOU REMOVE THE ROD, THE TUB WILL NOT BE SUPPORTED AT THAT POINT, SO YOU WILL ALSO HAVE THE WEIGHT OF THE TUB TO CONTEND WITH WHEN YOU INSTALL THE NEW ROD.
6. Make sure the new rod assembly has the black retainer positioned on top of the spring and the white retainer is about 6” above.
7. Hold the new rod so you can put the bottom with the spring back into the plastic cup. Once it’s in, give the rod a tug to seat the spring in the holder. keep holding the rod. Grab the zip tie loop you made earlier. Place it on the top hook of the hook then hold the rod by the zip tie. Feed the tie through the top hole, insert the screwdriver through the zip tie and set over the hole to hold the rod in position. Get the holder cup assembly (outer ring and inner bracket).
8. Hold the zip tie, let it back through the hole, while holding it, position the outer cup, then pull the zip tie back through the hole, insert the center bracket watching the position so the stem clears the rod, then lift the zip tie and position the hook over the bracket. At this point you can either cut the zip tie and pull it out or pry up the hook on the rod until you can slip off the zip tie.
9. Let the rod seat into the cup bracket. I orient the hook so it faces outside. The first rod is in.
10. Repeat doing 1 rod at a time. Be prepared to bruise your arm reaching down into the washer as it’s close quarters. The spring is strong and the tub is heavy so you need some arm strength to do this with one arm. It isn’t difficult and you’ll do better on each successive rod.
11. When all the rods are in and set, ease the top back down, align the tabs, check the side tabs that they didn’t bend (if they did just bent them back in), make sure the top is out of the tabs, then shove the front to reset the top.
12. Reattach the 4 sheet metal screws to the top, plug it it and test.
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- Customer:
- James from PINE MOUNTAIN, GA
- Parts Used:
- 8212641RP
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Washer hoses due for replacement
Replaced each hose. Did discover that either hose can be used for hot or cold water lines. No longer required to label hot and cold replacement hoses.
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Non agitator pulsating action ceased
Ordered the parts and followed You Tube DYI clip. This 3YOMaytag top loading washer has had a motherboard replaced and now this. It all works fine for now, I cannot imagine what the appliance tech would have charged. Maytag is not what it used to be.
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- Customer:
- William from LANCASTER, SC
- Parts Used:
- W10902814
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
washer plate would not agitate
after watching a video i ordered the part. removed the old part and installed the new wash plate using a socket and ratchet.
now washer works like new
now washer works like new
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- Customer:
- Stephanie from INDEPENDENCE, KY
- Parts Used:
- W10752187
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
the impellar mechanism wore out so stopped aggitating
Popped the cap , used a socket to unscrew the bolt (it was stripped so ended up having to cut off bolt) Took off old impellar and replaced, installed a new bolt, replaced Cap and it was fixed.
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- Customer:
- Howard from Boynton Beach, FL
- Parts Used:
- 350930
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Both outside door handles turned very beige
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you
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- Customer:
- Brian from DREXEL HILL, PA
- Parts Used:
- W11244231
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Replace drain hose
At first I had to position the washer so I could get access.. after having it positioned, I figured it out. Getting the clamp fastened, I was done.
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