LAT8240ABX Maytag Washer - Instructions

Solved theprobel m by noticiing the HOT water filled the tub and it began to run when it was full. Figured out it was the solenoid valve. Ordered a new one. Simple to install and then it ran just fiine.

Did the same as others. Loosened the three screws diconnected the wires and put them on the new valve. Disconnected fill hose and connected to new valve. 10-15 minutes. Replaced panel and tested new part. perfect, My repair was a little longer, I vaccumed up all the dust bunnies I could find before moving washer back. Good for another 35 years, I hope. Thanks for the help and experiences.

Pushed machine out from wall; disconnected the supply hoses (after closing the valves at the wall); unplugged electrical cord; removed two wires from the solenoid connectors; removed two screws that secure valve assembly to backplane of machine. Installation of new assembly was the opposite procedure. We have private well, and silt was plugging the cold water side of valve. So, I also installed a large sediment filter behind the washer, so this will never happen again.

open top of washer
remove two screws that hold water inlet valve
disconnect four wires and hose;replace new water inlet valve and reversed operation
everything went well

followed simple directions... no brainer.
just be careful - shut off water and unlug first.

Remove the following items: Washer to sink hose (loosen hose clamp and twist hose), two philips screws from bottom of front panel, front panel, upper side bolt screws, tilt up top washer deck and secure, remove 4 syphon break screws from rear of unit, remove pump to syphon break hose,
remove old syphon break, install new part and tighten with hose clamp, re-install pump to syphon break hose, re-assemble in reverse order. Check for leaks. Show your wife.

First thing unpluged power cord from wall outlet, removed hot and cold water supply hoses.Then took out srew holding metal plate ,pulled plate out exposing valve, marked wires and diconnected.Pulled clamp and hose from valve.Pulled out valve and reinstalled new.Reconnected wires and hose.Installed screw to hold in place, reconnected hot and cold supply hoses.Plug unit back in. Job done.Washer works like new.

First removed 2 screws(phillips) at bottom of front cover and lifted front to remove. Then removed 2 3/8 screws from under top cover and lifted cover and slid forward to exposed Syphon Break. After running briefly on spin, it was easy to see where the leak was. Syphon break was installed in 5 minutes by removing both hoses and 4 hex screws and reinstalling. Part arrived as promised in 3 days. I was very pleased with the whole experience.

I did it per the video on line and was a snap.I don't have issue recomending the web site to my freinds who want to do repairs themselves.

I didn't expect a problem, but watched the video anyway, it was right on the money. Make sure to use a new clamp for the hose.

Removed fill hoses, inlet valve cover,valve mounting hardware,hose to tub,unplugged electrical connector.Installed new valve in reverse order.

Studied, diagnosed the issue, looked at symptoms described in ParrtSelect's on line resources, purchased the part. Had it in one day without the need for extra FedEx shipping charges; waspleasantly surprised to see how easy this repair was to make. I then replaced inlet hoses with new stainless steel types. This workhorse pair of of Maytag appliances, constructed in January 1985 will continue to serve for many more years. These are well-built battleships! And PartSelect will be my part source of choice to keep them going!

My nephew followed directions in the repair video. Washer no longer leaks when warm water is specified.

Ordered replacement water inlet valve, switched out within 10 mins and problem solved for less than $50. Maytag design easily allowed for the inlet valve unit to be replaced without accessing interior workings of the washer. The unit is mounted with 3 screws on a removable rear panel where the hot and cold H2O hoses are connected. Very easy! Tested immediately upon completion and was delighted to see that hot, warm and cold water filled the tub extremely fast, the way it worked when purchased new 18 years ago. The web site repair video was key to my success.

Pulled the washer away from wall and tipped forward, leaning against a chair. Removed the hot and cold water hoses. Removed 1 screw. Pulled the plate off the back of the washer. Removed two screws holding the old valve onto that plate. Took 4 wires off the original valve one at a time and placed the wires one at a time on the new valve, so I didnt have to write down or remember which wire went where. Slid one hose clamp up, pushed the hose off the old valve and placed it on the new valve. Threw the two screws back on the valve and fastened it to the plate. Put the plate back on the back side of the washer with one screw. Put some teflon tape on the threads of the new water valve and screwed on the hot and cold water hoses.