MAV7504EWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Other peice broken or worn out. Poped old one off and new one in......YAHOO!! back to washing clothing again......

The hardest part of this is the springs. The best way to disconnect and reconnect was to tilt the tub towards the spring I was trying to work on (thus putting less tension on the spring and cutting down the distance). I took a large boot and jammed it into the oposite side wall to hold it in a tilted position before I disconnected the spring and then redid that to reconnect using a vice grip wrench. I replaced all three things, snubber, brake roto and stator and it went back together very easily. The key on the pully shaft was hard to reattach but there was a trick to that as well. The shaft has to move up slightly to slide ring on so you need to have something under the tub to help raise it. After that was back together it was 15 mins. to finish and now the washer is running like new.

I opened the front of the machine. The clips had rusted. One broke and the others were very difficult to work with. I pried the panel open with a large screwdriver. I took the back panel off to access the water pump. I removed the back panel on the electricals to access the timer. To replace the timer I pried off the decorative cover. To get the knob off you have to squeeze in on the timer split shaft while pulling out on the know. This was the second hardest part. (The front panel access was the most difficult). After that the timer clip is easy to loosen and it slides a littel then pops out. Electrical connection was obvious. The motor sping was the next most difficlt part. The spring fits on the rear part of the motor which is most easily accessed through the rear panel used for replacing the water pump. The water pump has three screws holding it and two hose clamps that come off easily with a pair of pliers. Before removing the water pump, I had to tip up the machine and take the belt off. This was also pretty easy. Put it back together and works great again on all cycles.

replaced timer and pull knob. easy and work great.

Removed washer top by depressing spring loaded clamps with a screw driver. Tricky part was determining location of clamps so that I knew where to insert screw driver; (I used diagrams of my model found on the Internet). With top lifted up, I located water control valve and removed brackets and plastic fixture surrounding it. Was careful to disconnect electronic wiring into valve. Then removed hoses and replaced with new part. Most of the time spent was diagnosing problem, determining plan for getting access to part, and reassembling without losing parts down in tub area. Saved an estimated $150-250 by doing it myself.

Took a screwdriver and pried up the top of washer, then reached in and unscrewed the front two screws that allowed the front to be lifted off.
Removed two screws on lower right side that allowed us to pry open right side of washer. There are six springs along the bottom of washer that keep the tub stable and keep it from bouncing against sides while in spin mode. One of the springs broke and needed to be replaced. Off course it was the one that was in the far back and the hardest to get too. But by prying open the right side it was reachable. The wife pushed against the tub to make the spring stretch a little less but still was too difficult. We took the advice of another home repair guy and put quarters in the spring (about $1.75 worth) to make it stretch out, then it was simple to connect the two ends, remove the quarters and voila....it was done. Screwed theright side back on, but the minimum order on the springs was six and the others seemed fine, we just put the other five inside the washer cabinet, replaced the front panel, reset the clamps on top of the front panel, slammed the top down and we were back in business. The parts including shipping was a little over $10.00. So I am sure we saved at least $140 repair job.

Vey Easy to Fix. 1)Turn Water off at the wall. 2)Remove access panel on back of washer. 3) Remove Water pump. It is bolted down to the bottom of the washer by three nut head bolts. when loose the pump can be manipulated and tilted so the belt will have slack and most likely fall right off. Have a bucket ready. Remove water hose from top of pump by sgueaing clam with pliars and sliding clamp up hose. allow to drain in bucket. Lift drain hose out from wall and allow to drain through the pump into bucket. remove hose from pump that goet to drain. Replace pump and reverse steps listed above.

After pulling the machine away from the wall and turning off the water and unpluging. I simply removed the panel in the back and reached underneath and removed the belt. Took off the hose clamps and removed the three screws holding the pump on. Put the new pump back in place and hooked up the hoses. Then put the belt on for a test run.......all OK put the back on and was done. Whole job about twenty minutes. Saved over two hundred dollars doing this myself. Very simple repair.

i did the repair by the instructions that you had on the web site,and i thank you for all the help you gave me.

tip washer up on wooden blocks.remove drive belt.remove "E" clip from tub drive pulley and remove all the parts.Install new parts in kit as per instructions.machine works great!

First I took the front shield off, then I took the motor off.

just took the front off and then took the old motor off and switched over about 2 parts from the old to the new and then put the new part on and then placed the front back on and it was ready to go

Just installed the valve 7-18-2010.
Removed electrical plug from the wall and closed the water supply valve. Removed supply hoses. Had to use pliers to get into recessed connections. Bad design. Raised lid using narrow putty knife to release clips under lid on corners. Removed connectors from solonoids, marking their positions, and set aside wires to prevent pinching or slicing them accidentally. Opened chute by depressing tabs on both sides. Removed the only screw in the water chute on left side and depressed the tab beneath other side to slide chute off. Removed single screw on left side holding valve bracket and slid bracket out of slot on right side. Removed screw from bracket holding valve in place. Reversed order to reassemble.
This is the second valve replaced in this five year old Maytag along with one transmission at two and one half years old. This new valve appears to be leaking through at this writing but I'm running the washer through a cycle to see if it will then seal tight. Will post follow up if possible.
P.S. Valve is holding as of 8-5-2010.

Removed the waterlines. Set the ends in a small pan or bucket to catch the water.Do the same with the drain line.
Keep an old towell handy as water will drain out of the drain pump when you remove the drain hose. Removed the back panel. Use a flat bladed screw driver to pop the top off the two clips in front holding the top down. Lift the top and pull the two screws which holds the front in place. Remove the front and set aside. Underneath, use gloves and the screw driver to remove the six springs by placing the screwdriver through the top hook end about an inch and with both hands lift the spring off. Carefull not to let the blade slip off and bust your knuckles on something,hence the gloves. Lean the machine over and walk the belt off the pulley. Disconnect the small tube in the back left corner from the drum and lift the unit out from the top. Set the drum on it's top and loosen the six screws under the big pulley just enough to pull the snubber out. Replace new snubber, tighten screws. Set drum back in place and reattach springs. Lean unit over and replace belt. Reconnect the small tube, back left corner. Replace the front panel and top. Connect the drain line and replace the rear panel. Connect waterlines and check for leaks. I went ahead and replaced all springs. I recommend replacing the belt while your at it. I'm wishing I would have. It runs like new, gets more water out on the spin cycle and the dryer dosn't take as long to dry the clothes.

Very simple, Lid cam part was broken, Just need to remove broken plastic lid cam with screwdriver and then snap in place the new piece. Worked like a charm first time. Easy , inexpensive repair to a reliable washing machine. Bill