MVWP575GW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

So I took apart the agitator and found that it was just worn down. So I ordered the new part on a Friday and recieved it over the weekend! It took me about 10 minutes to get it back together and works like new. Thank you PartSelect!!

Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.

Watch video on the site and the insulation will be easy and take about 30 min.

Took out old parts and put in news ones, super easy and works great!!

I removed the cover for the softener dispenser on the top of the agitator. Then reached in and removed the cover of the nut and washer which was very sticky and sealed with an o-ring. This took a bit of pressure. Then used a socket wrench with an extension to loosen the bolt and took the whole agitator out of the machine. Then I set the agitator on the floor and with a fine 12 inch long screw driver released the catches while turning and pulling the agitatior with my other hand and holding the lower agitatior on the floor with my feet. I then turned the upper part over and removed the cogs and holding mechanism.
Then I reversed the process after replacing the cogs with the new part. 25 minutes total.

Pop center cover off wash plate. Remove bolt. Lift off washplate. Slide retainer off with screwdriver and hammer. Slide new retainer on. Replace washplate.

Getting to the actual hub is a bit difficult as it involves removing the accetuator and takes some time and patience, but when I tried to replace with a new hub, I found that the screws were stripped, so PartSelect walked me through the ordering process and helped me choose the exact size screws that I needed. Parts came quickly...I already had the hub waiting to be secured and the screws tightened easily. (We had tried using a similar size, but you REALLY need the whirlpool screws that go in there) No more spinning problems, and the machine is not jumping around anymore. Works just like before. This particular machine has to have this part replaced at least twice a year (luckily it's cheap),but saves us from having to buy a whole new machine. My son also told me that since I replace the part so often, best to replace the screws every other time as well.

First you should take the proper safety precautions. Disconnect the appliance from the source of power and ensure you are grounded to avoid any potential hazards.

Check if any breakers flipped and if not, test the VAC from the outlet using a multimeter. If the breaker was not flipped and you are seeing 120-125 VAC from the outlet, proceed to next steps.

Disconnect appliance from source of power. Using a Torx security bit, unscrew the top left and right screws on the overlay cover. Lift overlay cover up and out to expose the PCB and connectors. Plug the appliance back into a source of power and check if the diagnostic LED on the PCB is on or off. If off, you will most likely need to replace the main control. At this point, take a picture of the main control and take note of where everything is plugged in.

Using a multimeter on VAC setting, test the incoming power supply to see if it matches what you tested on the outlet. If you are seeing 120-125 VAC the main control is getting power but a component or numerous components may have failed. If you have not repaired PCB components, it would be best to replace the entire control.

Disconnect power once again. Disconnect all connectors and pressure hose. Move those around so you have ample room to remove the main control. Unscrew the fastener screws holding the main control in place using a socket wrench. Lift main control up and slightly to the left. Place new main control into the unit and insert the screws you just removed. Be sure that the selector knob rod on the backside of the main control matches the position of the old main control or you may run into issues getting the new main control set in place.

Reconnect all connectors and the pressure hose following the picture you took previously. Push in enough where you hear the fasteners click. Check all wiring to ensure everything is connected properly and nothing became dislodged. Put the overlay cover back onto the console and insert the Torx security screws. Plug machine into power source and turn the selector knob to see if the LEDs light up. If so, you now have a functioning washing machine! Anytime you are working on an appliance you should always consult the service technicians guide located within the machine itself. The location will vary by manufacturer but on this unit it was behind the front panel. It requires you to take apart the machine to a certain extent. That allows you to find the proper diagnostic testing methods that should be followed prior to running a load.

For this model you can place the cycle selector knob at the 12 o'clock position. Rotate left, rotate right, rotate right, rotate left, rotate right. That will enter diagnostic mode and all status LED's will activate except for lid locked. This has to be done fairly quick otherwise you will not enter diagnostic mode. Now we need to enter calibration mode which is indicated by only having the rinse LED activated. Turn the cycle selector knob left and then right which will select different diagnostic tests until you land on the calibration mode test. Once there you can press that start button to begin the calibration. Let it run through the full test and now you are ready to begin running regular loads.

I always tought that I could never fix my own washer with so little time and with less than $25 dollars so good that our washer is working like new once again thanks to partselect. . . . I will be happy to buy from you any time.

Removed two screws to remove guard. Two screws to remove another part with wires. Pulley nut was already missing. Component was twist locking tabs.

Royal pain getting the wash plate off. I'm 6 foot 215 lbs with muscular arms( beer belly too) and I could not get it to come off. Put hay bail twine around the edge and pulled up so hard the entire machine came off the ground. Luckily I am married. Yep I pulled one end of the string and her the other and it flew off. Part select was $10 cheaper than whirlpool and was a perfect match. I might order another to have because like stated earlier I'm married. She is married to me and the washer and dryer.

I ordered the new cogs but didn't want to wait the few days for them to arrive. So I decided to try and temporarily repair the old ones. After looking at the picture of the new ones on this site I realized that the teeth were just worn down. I took all four of them out and used a grinding disc to carve the teeth down deeper. They were not perfect. (I would recommend holding the teeth with a vise.) However, after reinstalling the cogs the machine worked perfect and that was two weeks ago. I'm not going to install the new ones until I have to.

I followed the online instructions and found it remarkably easy. I saved a lot of money and will certainly use PartSelect in the future! Washer works like new again!

Unplug unit. Remove back panel. Disconnect drain hose using pliers to squeeze hose clamp. Tilt washer forward to access drain pump. Remove three screws on the pump. Unplug wire connector. Install new pump. Plug in the wiring connector. Reconnect hose. Reinstall back panel. Super easy fix!

I turned off and disconnected the water lines (have a bucket ready) and tipped the washer on its back. I followed along with the provided video that was super helpful. Disconnecting, moving the washer, and reconnecting everything took longer than the repair. Very satisfied with this repair!