BA8440 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed the front of the washing machine. Located & removed the water inlet valve from it's mounting on the back
inside face of machine. Replaced water valve, & restarted machine. Like new again!

Can't say enough about the speed of parts delivery & professionalism and accuracy recieved from the team at Parts Select. Thanx again,

Greg W.

Removed old part, installed new part. tested machine. worked fine.

First thing unpluged power cord from wall outlet, removed hot and cold water supply hoses.Then took out srew holding metal plate ,pulled plate out exposing valve, marked wires and diconnected.Pulled clamp and hose from valve.Pulled out valve and reinstalled new.Reconnected wires and hose.Installed screw to hold in place, reconnected hot and cold supply hoses.Plug unit back in. Job done.Washer works like new.

Remove the following items: Washer to sink hose (loosen hose clamp and twist hose), two philips screws from bottom of front panel, front panel, upper side bolt screws, tilt up top washer deck and secure, remove 4 syphon break screws from rear of unit, remove pump to syphon break hose,
remove old syphon break, install new part and tighten with hose clamp, re-install pump to syphon break hose, re-assemble in reverse order. Check for leaks. Show your wife.

I removed one screw from the access panel directly below the syphon break. I removed the 4 screws that secure the elbow to the valve. I reached inside the access panel and pulled the valve towards the front of the washer far enough so I could reach in and remove the broken elbow. I inserted the new elbow and replaced all the screws. I connected the drain hose to the syphon break, connected both water lines and I was done!

First removed 2 screws(phillips) at bottom of front cover and lifted front to remove. Then removed 2 3/8 screws from under top cover and lifted cover and slid forward to exposed Syphon Break. After running briefly on spin, it was easy to see where the leak was. Syphon break was installed in 5 minutes by removing both hoses and 4 hex screws and reinstalling. Part arrived as promised in 3 days. I was very pleased with the whole experience.

followed simple directions... no brainer.
just be careful - shut off water and unlug first.

Install new siphon break connector: 1. Loosened the clamp holding the drain hose in place on the elbow at the rear of the washer. Removed the hose from the elbow. 2. Removed the round upper access plate on the rear of the washer. 3. Removed the 4 screws holding the elbow in place, thereby releasing the siphon break connector and internal drain hose inside the washer cabinet. 4. Reached through the access port, grasped the siphon break connector end of the internal drain hose, pulled it through the access port. 5. Loosened and removed the clamp on hose, then removed the old siphon break connector from the end of the hose. 6. Installed the new siphon break connector onto the hose, clamped it in place, then returned the hose into the washer cabinet through the access port and positioned it onto the elbow, tightened the part down by reinstalling 4 screws at elbow on rear of the washer and then reconnected/clamped the external drain hose onto the elbow and replaced the access port cover.

ordered the part and it was easy to change.it worked great! Thanks

Just as the video described.... Unplugged the machine, turned off the water, both hot and cold. Unhooked the hoses (replaced them at this time since they were over 5 years old). Took out the top screw holding the frame piece and removed from machine. Took off the wires and the output hose. Removed the valve ass'y from the frame piece. Matched new to the original and reassembled in reverse order.

Repair was pretty simple, as I was able to access the valve from the rear of the washer without having to remove any large panels. All I had to do was disconnect the water supply hoses, and remove a small cover at the rear of the washer (the valve is mounted to this cover). Cleaning the electrical connectors, which were lightly corroded, took longer than anything else. Replacing the valve with the new one was just a matter of making sure the electrical connections, and the hot and cold water supply hoses were attached in the same places as the old installation. There is also a water outlet nipple on the top of the valve which had to be connected to the inlet hose, and I replaced the old clamp with a new one, which I believe is always a good idea. Two screws attach the valve to the cover, and two more screws attach the cover/valve assembly to the washer.

After watching the video on PartSelect, I ordered the part and received it the next day! The hoses involved were over 24 years old and is the only reason it took longer than about 10 minutes. The hot water hose was dificult to remove. Once I removed the hose, the old water inlet valve was replaced with the new valve within minutes...quick as per the video. The washer is back and was down for less than 1 full day.

Had to remove front of washer to get to the back of the washer to make repair.

Remove the front panel by removing the screws at the bottom of the panel; remove the screws holding top and swing back on hinges; loosen the screws on the back holding the valve and replace the valve following how the defective one was attached and then reverse the operation.

just like the vidio, only a had to remove the back panel to replace the valve. but we ., or should say my mother has a working wacher now,thank you for your help,