BA8440 Maytag Washer - Instructions

I removed the two hoses connected to the valve, then I removed the front panel by removing two screws on the bottom. I disconnected a drum hose connected to the top, tilted the top back, then separated the inlet valve from its metal housing by removing the screws holding it in place. I then removed the metal housing in order to have more access to the old valve. At this point, the valve was only held in place by a few wires. I noted which wires connected where and how the valve was oriented (Hot/Cold position), then removed the wire connections with pliers by grasping the connectors (not the wires). I then reversed this process to install the new valve.

I watched your 'how to' video, then repeated the procedure on my own machine. The repair went pretty much like the video. The new valve corrected the problem, and in fact, fills the washer faster than the old valve. I also replaced the water supply hoses, as one started to leak after I jiggled it around during the repair. Very satisfied with the this sites experience.

Followed video that came with part.

I order a water inlet valve from this site It was the best buy around. The email from the site part came with a video how to change it. It was a 15 minute job. One 5/16 nut driver to remove the inlet valve and pliers to remove the hoes from the valve. Easy off easy on.

removed cover, disconnected small water tube and disconnected electrical connections. Reversed above to install new piece. two nutdrivers required. Channel locks for supply hoses.

Watched your video and followed your instructions and it was very simple.We bought our maytag washer in 1988 next year it will be 30 years old we raised 3 children and for $21 and your video I hope to it last another 30 years

Unplug machine and remove drain hose clamp and hose from rear of the machine.Using Phillips head screw driver remove the 2 screws from the lower front panel of washer. Lift and remove front panel. Using a small socket, remove 2 screws from the inside top left and right of machine which secures the machines top cover and lift cover up (use duct tape to secure washer lid from opening). At the inside rear top of the machine is the Siphon Break Connector. Loosen clamps, remove old Siphon Break Connector and install new one. Reinstall top cover, front panel and then drain hose.

Performed repair through access cover in rear of machine. Removed screws with a nut driver and took out broken elbow. Pulled hose down to access hole to replace gasket then put back into position. installed elbow and reinstalled screws.
( this was tricky, have a helper to start the screws or place the screw in the nut driver with a piece of cloth to hold it in place), Make sure the screws are tightend evenly so the elbow sits completely against the gasket

We turned off the water, removed the hot and cold water hoses from the machine, then unscrewed the metal plate on the back of our washer that was covering the water inlet valve. Next we removed the output hose and pulled out the inlet valve. As we unhooked each electrical wire we immediatley hooked it to the same location on the new inlet valve. Then we rehooked the out put hose and reversed our steps to finish the job. Before putting the plate cover back over the inlet valve we filled the machine with cold water and ran it through all cycles to make sure we didn't have any leaks. The pictures/insturctions that came with the new part were helpful.

This was the first repair job that our 20 year old Maytag washer has needed, and it was nice to be able to do the job ourselves. Reading other customers's repair stories on your web site helped us diagnose our problem. I found it easy to locate and order the right part and it arrived two days after being ordered.

Other guys have already spelled out in fine detail how to do the actual replacement. What I would add is this: First, I promised I wouldn’t swear during this repair. Second, I got everything I needed together including tools, a small bucket and some old newspaper to soak up the water that is sure to spill. I bought 6 foot stainless steel hoses to replace the old rubber ones. THIS IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED as the last thing you need is a burst water line. Shorter hoses limit the distance you can move the washer without disconnecting them. The directions were wrong in that I did not need (nor could I use) the plastic sleeve over the outlet tube. So I very carefully had to pry this off without breaking the plastic bushing. And I had bent the clamp securing the outlet hose to the valve, and had a devil of a time getting it back on properly, so you may want to have a small tubing clamp handy as a replacement. Also, I checked for leaks before putting the valve back in place by holding it very carefully, powering up and turning the washer on and off a few times. Keep your fingers and sheet metal away from the terminals or your promise not to swear will be null and void! The last thing is that when I get into a project I go all the way, which meant pulling the washer all the way out and cleaning the floor and all the dust behind it, and even cleaning the washer itself. The result is my Maytag works like new, fills fast without the buzz and looks new, too. I love it when a plan comes together.

I took the front off the machine and ran the cycle to see when it was leaking. I found it was leaking when it was draining the water out on the inside of the machine where it was going out of the machine. I took that part out off the drain hose and ordered the part no that was stamped on the part. The part came in and I reassembled everything and it did not leak.

Agitator motor burned out -- purchased new one through Parts Direct (parts still available) 4 bolts and plug and play wire harness and now runs like new.

I removed the two screws holding the front panel and lifted out of the way. I then removed the front two bolts holding the top to the frame. I slid the top forward providing access to the interior. I then removed the four screws holding the discharge unit against the back panel. I removed the broken elbow and installed the new one. I reversed the removal procedure and installed the discharge hose to the new elbow. (Note: the new elbow was slightly smaller at the discharge end than the old one. The discharge hose had a larger inside diameter than the elbow. Probably due to the age of the machine). I will pay attention to the discharge hose if I have to move the washer again.

It was really quite simple. I found out where the leak was coming from by taking off the front panel and running the washer through the drain cycle. PartSelect website was right on for what part I needed and delivered it promptly. The installation video from PartSelect couldn't have been more clear. I removed a few screws from the back of the washer and installed the new part in about 1 hour. All was good.

The machine had leaked late last year; replacing the interior hoses fixed it, but the leak came back.

To diagnose the problem, I used a short, #2 phillips screwdriver to remove the two retaining screws under the front panel indentation. I pivoted the front panel toward me, unhooked it from its retaining hangers, and set it aside.

Inspection revealed that water was running down the exhaust hose from the siphon break, so I unplugged the machine, pulled it away from the wall, removed the two top retaining screws and pulled the top toward me. There was enough play in the wiring harness to leave everything connected.

I used a socket wrench to loosen the hose clamp at the bottom of the siphon break, and to remove the 4 hex head screws that hold the siphon break to the back of the machine. A few twists freed the siphon break, and one glance revealed that its top was covered with soap scum. It clearly needed replacement, so I ordered the part.

Replacement was a piece of cake. I mounted the gasket in the new siphon break, moistened its tube, twisted it into the hose, and tightened the clamp with a socket wrench. I then mated the new part with the old exit elbow, lined up the holes, and installed the retaining screws. I pushed the top back into position, installed the top retaining screws with a socket mounted on a universal nut driver handle, rehung the front panel, and installed the two retaining screws. Presto, good as new!

Everything else is clean. I would much rather replace a few parts and continue using "Old Reliable" than pony up $800 on a new machine.