LAT9334ABE Maytag Washer - Instructions

The instructional video clearly told me how to remove access panels. I was able to observe the leak during operation, and determined it was coming from the siphon break and running down the internal drain hose. The video clearly showed me how to access the part and replace it. This saved me a $300 service call for sure. Thank-you for your excellent guidance. We're going for 30 years of operation from this appliance!

Took a look at the new door switch assembly, used a socket wrench to remove the old, took wires off of old and attached them to the corresponding terminal on the new. attached the new assembly inside the top panel. Works!

The valve was leaking. I shut off the water to the machine and unplugged the power supply. I removed the defective valve. I then installed the new replacement valve reconnecting the 3 hoses and the 4 wires to the selenoid. I plugged it in and tried it before I pushed the machine back in place. I had to retighten one of the hose connections due to leaking. The leak stopped and I then pushed the machine back in place.

It saved me some $500.00, the cost of a new machine.

When selecting a cold cycle, the inlet valve would allow for slow water flow resulting in 15+ minute tank fill times.

I unplugged the washer, disconnected all water sources.

I removed the 3 screws holding the water inlet value and cover. Disconnected all cabling and water tubing. Replaced valve, reconnected all cabling and reinstalled.

While I was doing the repair on the inlet value. I replaced the hose washer and also installed a screen kit at the home water valve. The home is supported by a well and at times sees sedimentation in the water which could have sparked the initial issue to begin with.

I did clean the old water inlet valve once before which fixed the problem temporarily. It was time to replace the entire part.

This corrected the issue.

Lets just say thank god for part select!!!! # 1 By far. This was a one two three job.

I turned the dial to other selections and nothing worked, no power. I checked the fuse box, but nothing was off, and then I checked to make sure electricity was working with a light bulb. I googled the situation and came across this site and read other posts as they sounded exactly like what I was experiencing. I ordered the complete lid assembly not just the fuse. The item arrived quickly in two days. After about an hour, as it was pretty easy to replace, the washer was working again! Thank you all for posting, as it saved me at least a couple hundred dollars.

Removed top. Removed agitator and tubs . Replaced seals and reassembled.

So Easy a Caveman could do it, remove knob cover, retaining pin, spring and knob. Undo the nuts, unplug the plugs. Replug the plugs, put the nuts back in put on the spring,knob and retaining clip. Put the pop in cover back on. Simple and runs like new.

opened front of washer, removed motor, replaced glides and springs, installed motor and replaced belts. Installed new hoses and vacuum breaker. Its been a week now and no leaks or other problems.

Unplug from electrical outlet.Unscrewed control panel and laid it open. The switch is in 2 parts. Removed wires and unscrewed each switch. Put wires back on and tightened switch back to mounting plate. No brainer. Tried washer and worked perfectly. Two tips: Check fuse on plate to make sure it isn't burned out before ordering any parts. Secondly when installing if you have older model washer there is a nib that sticks up on mounting plate that keeps the switch from installing correctly. Cut this nib off with a wire cutter and then install. The directions don't mention that.

Our Maytag (A308) washer is now about 29 yrs old. I put in a PartSelect water valve 3 yrs ago. When it started leaking recently I found the cuplrit to be a flexible hose to the outer basis. The front came off easily (two screws at the bottom) and the hose clamps required some cleaning. I recommend purchasing new clamps. Under 30 minutes to get it running again.

Cleaned the cavities. Lubed them with olive oil. Inserted one ball on left side, while holding tension against that side to hold the ball in the lid and top indentations. Applied olive oil to right hand side indentation, and placed the new ball into lid indentation. Put lid down into closure cavity with ball, and with lid vertical, began pushing it rearward so as toslightly spring metal lid rolled edge and top metal away from one another UNTIL the new ball snapped into the hinge indentation in the machine cover. Done.

Pried off the center cover on the setting knob with a screw driver, removed the "keeper" pin behind it with a screw driver, removed the knob, Spring and secondary knob behind the first knob simply pulling it off, removed two small bolts on the face of the control panel with 5/16" nut driver that was holding the "Timer" in place. Removed the front of the control panel (4 phillips screws on top)and unplugged the "Timer" and plugged in the new one. Reversed process. Very easy.

First closed hot & cold water faucets feeding the two washer water hoses, then turned the machine on fill momentarily to bleed off water pressure in hoses, and unplugged power cord. Used pliers to help break seal on brass hose ends, removed old hoses. Removed 1/4 & 5/16 sheet metal screws, replaced leaky valves. New assembly was EATON Made in USA, high quality. Replaced rusted outlet hose spring clamp with "IDEAL" stainless screw clamp. Replaced unit in machine, installed new hoses, runs fine.

My husband took the old water inlet valve off, and put the new one on, and it works great. Very easy to replace.