BA3910 Maytag Washer - Instructions

1. Removed hoses 2. Removed inlet valve. 3. Took valve apart to discover defect in diaphram. 4. Looked up and ordered part. 5. Replaced inlet valve. 6. Tested washer.

I followed steps outlined on you web page.

since i had already opened up the machine to remove the old part, all i had to do was install the new part. actual time was less than 5 minutes. additional time was in putting the machine back together.a more detailed description would be:
i inserted the part in the sleeve at the back of the machine,held it in place and replaced the four screws to hold it. i attached the hose and clamped it. i then re-fastened the machine's top with two screws and replaced the front panel, using the two screws to hold it in place. the machine was used the next day and worked fine.

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

I first shut off the cold and hot water hoses so that no water would run while replacing the part. After that I made sure to unplug the washer .Then I removed the plate that was holding the water inlet valve with a 1/2 " nut driver ,I think there were four bolts .Then I removed two more bolts from the center of the plate that were holding the water inlet valve.I then disconnected one 1/4 " screw or I should say loosened one which held the main water hose going into the washer which then released the part ,except from four wires. I then took one wire off at a time and attached to the new part one at a time.Finally, I was finished and reconnected everything .It worked perfected !I'am very happy and pleased . This washer is over 25 years old and still runs .

Change the position of electrical connection on inlet valve before installation to match positions of old valve. Shut off electricy and water to washer. Disconnected water hoses, and power wires to old valve. Removed old valve and installed new valve exactly as installed on old valve. Washer operated perfectively

After getting my husband and another strong guy to move the washer from the wall... I removed the single screw that held the access in panel below the elbow. I then removed the 4 screws that held elbow pinned between the syphon break and the rear panel of the washer. I reached up and removed the broken piece of elbow and replaced with my new syphon elbow. Within 20 minutes I had the 5 screws replaced and the access panel cover back on and the washer moved back into place against the wall. Since we broke the elbow moving it around during home remodeling... I was able to complete our first load of wash in 6 months that afternoon! Thank you!

Removed 2 screws on the bottom of the front of the washer and pried the front off. Then removed 2 more screws for the top of washer and rocked it back to expose the water inlet vavle. Removed the water inlvet vavle and replaced it. Then put it all back together. Done

Removed the screws with a small socket set. Moved around cover over so I can remove broken syphon. Placed new Syphon in it's place. Attached the hose to Syphon with new clamp and wala! Machine is back to normal. Thanks Parts Select :)
P.S. Delivery was faster then expected.

Removed old valve and replaced with new. Wire for wire..screw for screw..

Followed instructions, those were OK.
Dishwasher front still leaking

I checked the inlet hoses for hard water build up and noted that this was not a problem. Then checked the hose from the inlet valve to the washer drum and determined that it was clear so I knew the problem was a faulty inlet valve. After receiving my replacement valve, I removed the old valve by removing the hot and cold water hoses and unscrewing two screws securing the inlet valve and lifting the inlet valve out the metal holding bracket. This gave me complete access to the inlet valve allowing me to remove the hose clamp and hose to the washing machine drum. The new inlet valve was an exact match so I removed the four electrical wires one by one while putting them back on the new inlet valve to insure correct electrical connections. I added a piece of one half inch plastic tubing provided with the new inlet valve on the outlet nipple of the new inlet valve to prevent leaking. I then put the new inlet valve back into the holding bracket and screwed it down. I replaced the hot and cold hoses to the new inlet valve carefully so as not to cross thread the plastic connection on the new inlet valve. After turning the water back on, I checked for leaks and plugged the washing machine back on to test it with a washing cycle.

I removed 2 screws at the bottom front corner of the washer. Then lifted the front panel upwards about 45 degrees, which allows the front panel to be removed.
I then removed one small lag bolt from under each front corner (with a nut driver), which hold the top to the frame.
I was now able to swing the top up to have access to the siphon break.
I then removed the drain hose from the rear of the machine where it is attached to the nipple end of the siphon break, by loosening the hose clamp. Still at the rear, the nipple end of the siphon break is attached with 4 mini lag bolts, Which go through the back plate & hold the siphon break to the inside of the washer. I removed the bolts with a nut driver.
The nipple end now fell away. You must save it, as the siphon break does not come with a new nipple end.from the siphon break. Maytag attaches it with an iron band, as they must think that this repair will never be done! I cut the band with the Dremel, being very careful not to cut the hose.
I pulled the siphon break free from the hose.
The installation is a reversal of the removal, starting with inserting the siphon break in the inner hose, clamping the hose with the supplied hose clamp.
I the removed the inner drain hose

Pushed machine out from wall; disconnected the supply hoses (after closing the valves at the wall); unplugged electrical cord; removed two wires from the solenoid connectors; removed two screws that secure valve assembly to backplane of machine. Installation of new assembly was the opposite procedure. We have private well, and silt was plugging the cold water side of valve. So, I also installed a large sediment filter behind the washer, so this will never happen again.

Exactly as the video showed. This was a very simple repair. The only extra thing I did was to replace the mesh screen/gasket at the hose ends. They were plugged with crud. PartSelect saved me from buying a new washing machine. Yay!

I took the hot and cold water hoses off with pliers.and then I took the one screw out towards the top of the water inlet valve plate.disconnected 4 wires,there is a small clamp on the small hose on the valve you have to remove.and last there is a cluster of wires that has to be removed from a bracket and (it is important to put these cluster of wires back in place otherwise they will wear a bare spot in them.)