MVWP575GW1 Maytag Washer - Instructions

My spin cycle was running, but spinning slowly and not drying my clothes. The agitator spun quickly like normal, but the basket did not spin fast. It seemed like something was slipping. I checked the belt, but it seemed fine and it was less than a year old. I was afraid that the transmission was going, but there wasn't any grinding sound of gears. Luckily the hub part description said that this could fix the slow Spin cycle. Over all the repair was easy, but pulling the agitator off was very difficult. I've got a strong grip and patience and after about 10 - 15 mintues of yanking on the agitator it came off. Don't try to use pliers as it will damage the plastic agitator. Replacing the hub drive and reassembly went very smoothly. The old hub drive wore out because it is plastic and connects to the metal drive shaft from the transmission. After years of torque, the hub will eventually strip out. Sooner depending on your usage and heavy duty cycles. In case you don't know, your machine might have the service manual in it on the inside of the body taped to the side. Mine helped me run through some troubleshooting steps and component tests to pinpoint to problem. Thanks Parts Select!

remove softener dispenser assy,remove barrier cap & o ring remove auger assy retainer,remove cam assy from auger, assemble new cam assy and reverse disassembly order. less than 5 minutes.

slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys

Force the thin nylon strap around and down into the perimeter of the agitator. Draw it snug to the center. The strap must be long enough to make a complete loop up to the top of the tub. Insert a fairly stout wooden stick through the loop so that an upward prying motion of the stick applies a vertical force on the agitator. While the force is applied pound on the lower part of the agitator so that it will break it free from the motor's axel. Of course remove the center bolt first after removing the small hub cover.
Applying liquids to the connection did not help. Just a steady upward force and a few rubber hammer blows to the lower part of the agitator di the trick.

I watched the video and did exactly what they said to do. It was really easy. The key to the success was in the parts that were mailed to me it had a separate piece of paper telling you to "reset" the washer after doing the repair. I missed this when I watched the video. That was a critical part of the repair which required no tools to accomplish.
I have done 6 loads of wash and the washer has not made any crazy noises and hasn't moved!

I watched the repair video on Partselect, it was very informative. In the video the agitator lifted right out easily, I was not so lucky. It took me and another gentleman about 4 hours to get the thing out. I watched other videos on ideas to remove, still no luck. Finally I cut the strap off of a carry all bag and was able to get it in around the agitator and slide it under it. After getting it under the agitator we were able to pull up on it and get it loose.
The rest of the repair was simple, cleaned everything, installed new part, and now washing machine is working like new again.

unscrewed a bolt, pulled top agitator out and replaced parts and reinstalled.

Based on, online troubleshooting and repair guide. First repair attempt was unsuccessful after replacing suggested parts and required a professional repair tech to diagnose the issue. Second attempt at repair was successful after the proper issue was diagnosed. Sometimes you just have to call a professional. John Suchinsky, Paterson NJ

screw driver and a rachet and socket took it off and put the new one on . no problem follow the direction that comes with it .

I drained the machine and pulled it away from the wall.Then I disconnected the drain hose and removed the back panel.Next,I removed the three screws holding the pump in place and disconnected the power plug from the motor.I then removed the short drain hose from the pump.Installation was the opposite of the removal sequence,and the machine worked fine right after I was done.The new part was identical the the old one,and the job was a snap.

Remove the center cover with a screwdriver then loosen the 7/16 bolt with an impact driver socket ccw to remove completely biggest issue is removing bottom cover tried pick tools only thing that was succesful was some dawn dishsoap on the center bolt area to loosen enough to lift up the cover replace the hub part that had worn spline grooves remember to use blue loctite on the 7/16 bolt before re-installing cw to tighten bolt

So I took apart the agitator and found that it was just worn down. So I ordered the new part on a Friday and recieved it over the weekend! It took me about 10 minutes to get it back together and works like new. Thank you PartSelect!!

Getting to the actual hub is a bit difficult as it involves removing the accetuator and takes some time and patience, but when I tried to replace with a new hub, I found that the screws were stripped, so PartSelect walked me through the ordering process and helped me choose the exact size screws that I needed. Parts came quickly...I already had the hub waiting to be secured and the screws tightened easily. (We had tried using a similar size, but you REALLY need the whirlpool screws that go in there) No more spinning problems, and the machine is not jumping around anymore. Works just like before. This particular machine has to have this part replaced at least twice a year (luckily it's cheap),but saves us from having to buy a whole new machine. My son also told me that since I replace the part so often, best to replace the screws every other time as well.

First you should take the proper safety precautions. Disconnect the appliance from the source of power and ensure you are grounded to avoid any potential hazards.

Check if any breakers flipped and if not, test the VAC from the outlet using a multimeter. If the breaker was not flipped and you are seeing 120-125 VAC from the outlet, proceed to next steps.

Disconnect appliance from source of power. Using a Torx security bit, unscrew the top left and right screws on the overlay cover. Lift overlay cover up and out to expose the PCB and connectors. Plug the appliance back into a source of power and check if the diagnostic LED on the PCB is on or off. If off, you will most likely need to replace the main control. At this point, take a picture of the main control and take note of where everything is plugged in.

Using a multimeter on VAC setting, test the incoming power supply to see if it matches what you tested on the outlet. If you are seeing 120-125 VAC the main control is getting power but a component or numerous components may have failed. If you have not repaired PCB components, it would be best to replace the entire control.

Disconnect power once again. Disconnect all connectors and pressure hose. Move those around so you have ample room to remove the main control. Unscrew the fastener screws holding the main control in place using a socket wrench. Lift main control up and slightly to the left. Place new main control into the unit and insert the screws you just removed. Be sure that the selector knob rod on the backside of the main control matches the position of the old main control or you may run into issues getting the new main control set in place.

Reconnect all connectors and the pressure hose following the picture you took previously. Push in enough where you hear the fasteners click. Check all wiring to ensure everything is connected properly and nothing became dislodged. Put the overlay cover back onto the console and insert the Torx security screws. Plug machine into power source and turn the selector knob to see if the LEDs light up. If so, you now have a functioning washing machine! Anytime you are working on an appliance you should always consult the service technicians guide located within the machine itself. The location will vary by manufacturer but on this unit it was behind the front panel. It requires you to take apart the machine to a certain extent. That allows you to find the proper diagnostic testing methods that should be followed prior to running a load.

For this model you can place the cycle selector knob at the 12 o'clock position. Rotate left, rotate right, rotate right, rotate left, rotate right. That will enter diagnostic mode and all status LED's will activate except for lid locked. This has to be done fairly quick otherwise you will not enter diagnostic mode. Now we need to enter calibration mode which is indicated by only having the rinse LED activated. Turn the cycle selector knob left and then right which will select different diagnostic tests until you land on the calibration mode test. Once there you can press that start button to begin the calibration. Let it run through the full test and now you are ready to begin running regular loads.

Took out old parts and put in news ones, super easy and works great!!