MAV7450AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed upper back cover to expose the timer, the whole panel could then be tipped foward which made it easy to work on.
Removed the dial knob on front by popping off the cover then pryed up a smaller plastic button used to hold the knob in place.......knob slid off.
Disconnected wire harness from the switch.......had to pry up the snap tab that holds it in place.
Had to remove a small electrical board attached to the back of the timer......used screwdriver to pop it up and out (gently).
Removed one hold-down screw, lifted a little lock-tab and slid the unit to the left and lifted out and replaced.
I'm sure I forgot something.........but the whole thing was pretty easy to figure out .

Found a website that showed how to open the lid. Lifted the lid and checked the solenoids. When hot was disconnected, got cold only. Multimeter showed hot was being continuously energized regardless of temperature selector switch position. Removed back (5 or 6 screws) and found the circuit diagram. Studied it and determined that the switch or analog card had to be the problem. Took digital pictures of everything to aid in replacing wires pulled for trouble shooting. Pulled temp selector switch (pushed in a couple of tabs). Disassembled switch and checked all contacts. Working fine. Nothing left but the temperature board. Determining correct revision was difficult. Found a website that said, "first numbers of serial are revision number. Pick card with highest revision number lower than your model." Replaced card and everything worked as designed. Every wire was labeled and every wire bayonet was labeled so I didn't need the pictures, but I felt better having them.

I did what anyone could do, remove the screws and replace the part. The part just came apart during installation. If I were Maytag, I would replace the part free of charge.

Took a screwdriver and pried up the top of washer, then reached in and unscrewed the front two screws that allowed the front to be lifted off.
Removed two screws on lower right side that allowed us to pry open right side of washer. There are six springs along the bottom of washer that keep the tub stable and keep it from bouncing against sides while in spin mode. One of the springs broke and needed to be replaced. Off course it was the one that was in the far back and the hardest to get too. But by prying open the right side it was reachable. The wife pushed against the tub to make the spring stretch a little less but still was too difficult. We took the advice of another home repair guy and put quarters in the spring (about $1.75 worth) to make it stretch out, then it was simple to connect the two ends, remove the quarters and voila....it was done. Screwed theright side back on, but the minimum order on the springs was six and the others seemed fine, we just put the other five inside the washer cabinet, replaced the front panel, reset the clamps on top of the front panel, slammed the top down and we were back in business. The parts including shipping was a little over $10.00. So I am sure we saved at least $140 repair job.

first we looked at schematics on your web site to see what we thought was wrong and if we felt we could do ourselves. It appeared to be seals and gaskets, so we went for it and carefully took the washer apart. We ordered the parts, cleaned the parts we had such as the tub, and were all ready to put back together when the parts arrived. Again, using your pictures, we reasselbled and when we tested, it worked better than it had been in a long time. And we saved a large repair bill!

Vey Easy to Fix. 1)Turn Water off at the wall. 2)Remove access panel on back of washer. 3) Remove Water pump. It is bolted down to the bottom of the washer by three nut head bolts. when loose the pump can be manipulated and tilted so the belt will have slack and most likely fall right off. Have a bucket ready. Remove water hose from top of pump by sgueaing clam with pliars and sliding clamp up hose. allow to drain in bucket. Lift drain hose out from wall and allow to drain through the pump into bucket. remove hose from pump that goet to drain. Replace pump and reverse steps listed above.

The repair it is simple the problem was to figure it out, I did some research on this kind of problem and everything was pointing to the timer so I used a philips screw driver and a nut driver to remove the backside of the control panel,but first don;t forget to unplug the machine, I have to pry off the knob top cover and remove a plastic clip to pull the knob after that you can unplug the electronic board connector and the timer connector,remove a couple of screws amd the timer is out, installation is the reverse of removal.

i did the repair by the instructions that you had on the web site,and i thank you for all the help you gave me.

tip washer up on wooden blocks.remove drive belt.remove "E" clip from tub drive pulley and remove all the parts.Install new parts in kit as per instructions.machine works great!

After pulling the machine away from the wall and turning off the water and unpluging. I simply removed the panel in the back and reached underneath and removed the belt. Took off the hose clamps and removed the three screws holding the pump on. Put the new pump back in place and hooked up the hoses. Then put the belt on for a test run.......all OK put the back on and was done. Whole job about twenty minutes. Saved over two hundred dollars doing this myself. Very simple repair.

Removed the waterlines. Set the ends in a small pan or bucket to catch the water.Do the same with the drain line.
Keep an old towell handy as water will drain out of the drain pump when you remove the drain hose. Removed the back panel. Use a flat bladed screw driver to pop the top off the two clips in front holding the top down. Lift the top and pull the two screws which holds the front in place. Remove the front and set aside. Underneath, use gloves and the screw driver to remove the six springs by placing the screwdriver through the top hook end about an inch and with both hands lift the spring off. Carefull not to let the blade slip off and bust your knuckles on something,hence the gloves. Lean the machine over and walk the belt off the pulley. Disconnect the small tube in the back left corner from the drum and lift the unit out from the top. Set the drum on it's top and loosen the six screws under the big pulley just enough to pull the snubber out. Replace new snubber, tighten screws. Set drum back in place and reattach springs. Lean unit over and replace belt. Reconnect the small tube, back left corner. Replace the front panel and top. Connect the drain line and replace the rear panel. Connect waterlines and check for leaks. I went ahead and replaced all springs. I recommend replacing the belt while your at it. I'm wishing I would have. It runs like new, gets more water out on the spin cycle and the dryer dosn't take as long to dry the clothes.

First I took the front shield off, then I took the motor off.

Read DIY review from William, Middleton, OH on 01-15-08. Tip on how to relieve spring pressure on brake assembly worked like a dream (3ea 10-24X2 bolts/machine screws). Replaced brake and machine works like new and was an inexpensive fix. Once the shell/housing is off the machine, tub can be turned upside down and the base doesn't need to be removed. White powder under machine was a plastic wear ring that tells you when your brake rotor needs to be changed. Brake rotor still had lining but was much thinner than replacement part. Note* Use putty knife to push in clips on front to release the top lid section.

just took the front off and then took the old motor off and switched over about 2 parts from the old to the new and then put the new part on and then placed the front back on and it was ready to go

Very simple, Lid cam part was broken, Just need to remove broken plastic lid cam with screwdriver and then snap in place the new piece. Worked like a charm first time. Easy , inexpensive repair to a reliable washing machine. Bill