MFW9700SQ0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Unplug machine,remove three screws that hold on top cover.
Unplug latch switch assembly,then open front door of washing machine, remove three screws which hold latch
switch. Install in reverse order.

This was an easy fix . PartSelect was quick and had all the info I needed to repair my washer. Plus shipping was super fast. Thanks

I ordered the part, followed the instructions listed on appliance help and put it in... easy

The product came on time and was perfectly rapped , it took me 15 mins to install after watching you tube videos on front loader washer . I was happy I didn't have to call a service man in . . . .

Disconnect the hot and cold water supply hoses from the rear of the machine. Remove 3 screws in the rear that fasten the top cover. Slide the cover rearward and remove it. Disconnect the black outlet hose and unsnap the two electrical connectors from the water valve. Remove one screw that fastens the water valve to the rear panel. Slide the water valve away from the screw and remove it. Reverse this procedure to install the new valve.

Disconnected the water supply lines. Removed four screws holding the top to back frame. Removed the top. Disconnected the electrical valve connections. Removed the valve set mounting screw. Removed the valve set and replaced. Reversed the steps above for installation.

I had replaced the flowmeter, but that didn't solve the problem, so I ordered the hot/cold solenoid fill part. Other than ONE screw that was unique -- the back retaining screws were nut driver screws, the one retaining screw was a torx which, of course, couldn't be seen unless you pulled the washer all the way out. Unscrewed that, unhooked the hose clamp with pliers and worried the hose off, removed the four electrical connections (which were TIGHT) and replaced the part. Turned on the water and was dismayed to get a d/l error code. After some colorful language learned from my drill sergeant 40 years ago, I realized that was "door lock" and closed the door tightly. Ran great and the Mrs. thinks I'm a hero.

It took less time to repair than it took to get new baffle out of the packing sleeve. Set it in drum and snapped it in place. Took about 5 seconds.

Placed baffle in drum over slots pushed down on it and slid it back to lock it in place. You will hear it click.

I opened the top by taking four screws from the back and lifted the top. The part to be replaced was clearly in view. I opened the clamps on the hoses, pulled the hoses off, removed the wires, and reversed the process with the new part. The washer works great now! I ordered the part on a Friday, and it was delivered the next day, even though I didn't pay for overnight!

Removed the 3 bolts attaching top of washer. Disconnected hoses from the inlet value and flow meter, also very careful to remove the wire connections. Removed Water inlet valve (this requires the star screw driver). Did find it best to connect the inlet valve and flow meter before reattaching the inlet valve, as that sits under the lip, it is just a bit of a tight fit to get the hose reconnected between the two. Then reconnected the flow meter hose to the dispensing box, reattached the hoses and ran a cycle no f20 issues, as a note, an f20 has to do with a restriction in the flow of water not with pressure so not sure if it was the inlet valve or flow meter clogging up or both.

First I want to acknowledge Parts Select for their prompt delivery(received parts in less than two days)and their unbeatable prices(approximately 1/3 less than two local appliance repair/parts shops). Repair was straight forward a simple swap of the pump and I saved quite a few dollars.Thanks Parts Select.Any future appliance parts needs will be purchased here.

Very limited access to the bellow clamp. Found it easier to first remove washer front panels (8 screws total), providing ready access to R&R the bellow. 40 minutes tops.

I unscrewed the three small sheet-metal screws holding the washer top to the frame and slid the top aft and laid it on the floor. Then I took fine sandpaper and cleaned the plug contacts from the various components connected to the main control board. After five years or so I have found that most copper connectors will corrode and prevent electricity from flowing properly. That did not correct the problem. I checked the flow control device and it appeared clear and not binding. Then I pulled the drain pump filter and it was clear. I could hear the water pump running and the water flowing out the normal rubber hose. But the washer would stop three or four times during a wash cycle. Pressing 'RESET" and "START" would start the washer again. At the end of the cycle my wife noticed there was water in the washer tub. It had to come in via the water control valve. This is the valve you screw the hot and cold water hose into. It is a ice blue color and held in by one screw. I unscrewed the two hoses and removed the one screw. Then I had to slip the black supply hose from the valve leading to the flow meter. I disconnected the four electrical connectors and installed the new valve and found the screw hole did not align with the screw hole in the washer frame. I used a eighth-inch metal drill and drilled a new hole which lengthened the slot that the mounting screw normally went through. After I re-connected the hot and cold water lines to the valve I turned the water back on and put the top back on the washer. The washer worked like new. No stops. I did notice before changing the valve the water would flow into the washer tub like beer coming from a tap. After installing the new valve the water flowed in at three times the rate like a garden hose.