MAV9750AGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Took a screwdriver and pried up the top of washer, then reached in and unscrewed the front two screws that allowed the front to be lifted off.
Removed two screws on lower right side that allowed us to pry open right side of washer. There are six springs along the bottom of washer that keep the tub stable and keep it from bouncing against sides while in spin mode. One of the springs broke and needed to be replaced. Off course it was the one that was in the far back and the hardest to get too. But by prying open the right side it was reachable. The wife pushed against the tub to make the spring stretch a little less but still was too difficult. We took the advice of another home repair guy and put quarters in the spring (about $1.75 worth) to make it stretch out, then it was simple to connect the two ends, remove the quarters and voila....it was done. Screwed theright side back on, but the minimum order on the springs was six and the others seemed fine, we just put the other five inside the washer cabinet, replaced the front panel, reset the clamps on top of the front panel, slammed the top down and we were back in business. The parts including shipping was a little over $10.00. So I am sure we saved at least $140 repair job.

After pulling the machine away from the wall and turning off the water and unpluging. I simply removed the panel in the back and reached underneath and removed the belt. Took off the hose clamps and removed the three screws holding the pump on. Put the new pump back in place and hooked up the hoses. Then put the belt on for a test run.......all OK put the back on and was done. Whole job about twenty minutes. Saved over two hundred dollars doing this myself. Very simple repair.

tip washer up on wooden blocks.remove drive belt.remove "E" clip from tub drive pulley and remove all the parts.Install new parts in kit as per instructions.machine works great!

First I took the front shield off, then I took the motor off.

Read DIY review from William, Middleton, OH on 01-15-08. Tip on how to relieve spring pressure on brake assembly worked like a dream (3ea 10-24X2 bolts/machine screws). Replaced brake and machine works like new and was an inexpensive fix. Once the shell/housing is off the machine, tub can be turned upside down and the base doesn't need to be removed. White powder under machine was a plastic wear ring that tells you when your brake rotor needs to be changed. Brake rotor still had lining but was much thinner than replacement part. Note* Use putty knife to push in clips on front to release the top lid section.

I was able to get the belt off easily but the belt was fine. I changed the snubber easily also. But that wasn't the problem. I went through all the parts that are easy enough to change without a mechanic but turned out it was something inside the innerbasket and we had to junk the washer and it was only 4 yrs old.

just took the front off and then took the old motor off and switched over about 2 parts from the old to the new and then put the new part on and then placed the front back on and it was ready to go

Removed the waterlines. Set the ends in a small pan or bucket to catch the water.Do the same with the drain line.
Keep an old towell handy as water will drain out of the drain pump when you remove the drain hose. Removed the back panel. Use a flat bladed screw driver to pop the top off the two clips in front holding the top down. Lift the top and pull the two screws which holds the front in place. Remove the front and set aside. Underneath, use gloves and the screw driver to remove the six springs by placing the screwdriver through the top hook end about an inch and with both hands lift the spring off. Carefull not to let the blade slip off and bust your knuckles on something,hence the gloves. Lean the machine over and walk the belt off the pulley. Disconnect the small tube in the back left corner from the drum and lift the unit out from the top. Set the drum on it's top and loosen the six screws under the big pulley just enough to pull the snubber out. Replace new snubber, tighten screws. Set drum back in place and reattach springs. Lean unit over and replace belt. Reconnect the small tube, back left corner. Replace the front panel and top. Connect the drain line and replace the rear panel. Connect waterlines and check for leaks. I went ahead and replaced all springs. I recommend replacing the belt while your at it. I'm wishing I would have. It runs like new, gets more water out on the spin cycle and the dryer dosn't take as long to dry the clothes.

Very simple, Lid cam part was broken, Just need to remove broken plastic lid cam with screwdriver and then snap in place the new piece. Worked like a charm first time. Easy , inexpensive repair to a reliable washing machine. Bill

took off front of washer , took off hose clamp removed old hose . replaced with new hose clamped back on put on front cover ran washer check for any leakes. done and done

i took off the old belt and i took off the motor pulley with the pliers and srewdriver. i put the new pulley in with my hand and gave it a hit with the palm until it snap in and then i put the belt on by rotating the main pulley on tub till the belt was pulley on.

first remove drive belt then then remove dust cover on bottom of shaft take 5/16 nut driver to only 4 of the screws off that hold the brake cover on install 4 5/16 screws 1" long in those 4 spots.reomve rest of screws then slowly reomve back out 1" screws to relve spring pressure from brake pad.install all new parts from partsselect.com then install other part taken off in oreder and make your wife very happy

I removed the plate at lower left corner on rear of washer 3 screws and it pops right off after that there are 2 clamps on the hoses attached to the pump I removed those with pliers then I removed the 3 screws holding the pump to the bottom of the washer then pulled the pump through the hole and replaced it with the new pump installed all the screws then layed washer on its side and replaced the belt set it up pluged it in and no more noise sounds better than new. Thank you Part Select for making it an easy painless task to get the parts I needed.

I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.

Simple remove and replace. Plastic cam and hinges simply snap out, replacement parts snap right back in. Needle nose pliers were helpful to remove broken lid cam. With hinges and lid removed, took advantage of great opportunity to clean lid and and top of washer.