MAV551EEWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I opened up the top of the washer which exposed the tub, I took the top ring off the tub and under in side of the ring is the seal. Took the old one out and put the new one in. The old seal was completely wore out.
It was real easy.
Finding the part is usually the hardest part, but thanks to Parts Select finding the part was the easiest part of the repair.

The lid hinges are fastened to the top of the washing machine body, near the edge of the lid, with 1 screw each.
To remove the old lid hinges, with the lid clamped in the open position, I needed to gain access to the screw heads from underneath, just inside the edge of the lid opening. To get at these screw heads, I needed to push the inside wash drum toward the screw I wanted to remove and wedge something in the gap created between the body of the washer opening and the drum, directly opposite the screw that I pushed the drum towards. What? This is to hold the drum completely out of the way while getting at the screw. My wedge was the handle of a squeege that just happenned to be nearby, but just about anything will work.
Once the drum was secure, I was able to get at the screw head, which, by the way, is a totally blind operation; you cannot see the screw head, only feel it. I guess we're kind of used to feeling our way around these days. Anyway, I had to repeat the wedging thing to remove the other lid hinge.
The only real problem I had was the original (factory installed) screw heads were hex heads, and I struggled a bit finding the correct size allen wrench to blindly remove the screws. It is a good thing that I also ordered 2 new screws along with the new lid hinges because the new screws have phillips heads. Much easier to work with, even though they were a little pricey. The old hex head screws were kind of worn and it would have been a cursing operation to try to reuse them.
Once the old hinges were off, I removed the lid, installed the new hinges on the lid and clamped the lid in place in the open position, while I screwed the new hinges on (wedging the drum out of the way like before). NOTE: It might be a good idea to line the wash drum with newspaper in case a screw slips out and finds its way into one the holes in the drum; lost forever. Anyway, this may sound like alot, but it really isn't. My wife didn't even comment on how the lid isn't smashing down on her any more. That's OK, I'm grateful I'm not the one doing laundry!

Removed inspection panel on rear of washer. Pump right there. Removed inlet and outlet hoses with pliers on squeeze clamps. Three 3/8" size self tapping screws were removed and old pump came right out. Reversed process with new pump from this site that fit perfectly. New pump was an upgrade factory part that mounted inside washer without a mounting plate as the old one did.

Replace the motor in 25 minutes, my repair guy said it was not worth the time , I got this motor for less than $150. And save my self over $600.00, this was incredible.

i followed the directions i found online. do not take the screws all the way out! The snubber ring solved the problem. I replaced the springs since i had them. The old ones seemed OK.

unscrew the screw holding the broken part in the lid to remove the old part and tighten the screw to a firm position to hold the new piece in place. Now working fine.

The Repair went well . I had the hose on in about 30 seconds . The best part about this ordeal was the ease of finding the part on your website , and the speed of the delivery . I had my part in about 2 days , put it on and back to the fun part of clothes washing . I would recomend this company to everyone. Thanks, Rick K.

Pulled wahser away from wall, unpluged, removed screws from rear access panel, removed hoses from water pump, used towell to absorb excess water still in pump and hoses, removed drive belt, removed screws securing pump, removed old pump replaced it with new pump, cussed a little when replacing hoses, repeated steps in reverse order, checked for leaks.

Took the washer outside, turned the washer on its side to expose the bottom panel. Removed the old water pump (three screws and two hoses. Replaced with new water pump and connected all fittings. Real easy to do. Washer runs great now.

Looked up probable causes on PartSelect website. Determined that worn snubber ring and and weak springs were probable cause. Ordered parts on a Thursday. Parts arrived on following Monday.

Read several repair stories on the website. One story gave step-by-step instructions for disassembly. Very helpful since I followed this prescription. While waiting for delivery of the parts, I removed the tub and inverted it.

Removing springs was relatively easy. Did not remove snubber ring until new parts arrived, but replacing it was easy. I was very cautious about loosening the 6 screws and heeded the warning about the 200 pound spring under the cover.

Diagrams on website showing expanded mechanism of washing machine parts were very helpful for reassembly.

The most difficult part was installing the new springs, since they were quite strong. One repair story on the website suggested using coins to expand the new springs enough to be able to hook the springs into the upper slots and hangers.

I USED ONE OF THE MORE ACCESSIBLE LOCATIONS (AT THE REAR OF THE MACHINE) TO PREPARE EACH SPRING FOR INSTALLATION).

I hooked a spring in the bottom slot. I pushed a long heavy screwdriver through the spring's upper hook and the hole in the metal support and expanded the spring until I could insert 1/2-inch washers (about 8) between the rings. I prepared each spring this way for installation around the tub. With the washers in the expanded spring, it was relatively easy to use a pliers to lift the upper hook into the hole or hanger.

I decided to insert the spring next to the motor first since it was the more inaccessible. The remaining springs were installed relatively easily.

Reassembly was easy by following the reverse order of the disassembly instructions. I found the tub to be pretty heavy to lift, so when it came time to put it back into the frame, I turned the frame on it's side and inserted the tub from floor level.

I am very proficient mechanically but I believed I could make this repair without difficulty. I think that without the repair stories I had viewed on the website, it would have been more difficult. A spring tool would have been immeasurebly more helpful.

Leaned washer forward, removed clamp and old hose, replaced with new hose, reinstalling clamp.

I obtained the parts on line and began to install these. I was surprised that the ease of my installation was great. Each part was held by one screw. I used a phillips driver and found the under screws easy to get to by pushing the inside clothes drum to the side. A total of four screws was required for the replacement. This repair was so easy that a normal non-trained person can accomplish it. Thanks Admiral.

Parts needed: Snubber Ring and 6 Springs (don't put the old springs back)
Unlug the AC cord, open the top from the front it snaps open with a little force and hinges on the back, remove the 2 screws on the front cover and take it off, tip the washer and remove the belt, take off the pump hose from the back It was not necessary to remove the back cover. Remove the little hose going to the basket from the control module. Remove the 6 springs and lift the complete drum out of the waser and turn it upside down. You can see the plastic snubber ring that is worn, loosen the 6 screws just enough to get the old ring out and the new one in. WARNING: DO NOT TAKE THE SCREWS ALL THE WAY OUT OR THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY WILL RELEASE AND A SPECIAL TOOL IS NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK. Seriously! Install the new ring, center and tighten the screws. Put the tub back in. I found it handy to support the tub with a 2x3 to get the springs back in. Connect hoses back up. It really isn’t that bad, a couple of scraped knuckles.

There is a small back panel about 14" square made to open for access to the drain pump. 3 screws for the back panel and 3 screws for the pump - Oh you do have to slip the belt off & back on, underneath the machine.

I tilted top cover to remove front washer panel removed suspension springs to remove complete tub assembly to gain access to bottom. Drive pulley to remove snubber ring I performed the repair step by step as per your video. was dead on made the repair go smoothly. I installed the belt last tilting washer mechine back to gain access to undercarrige just walked belt on all three pulleys self adjusting then. made sure washer was level. Front to back side to side no rocking in any deriction My wife did four full loads problems gone I think all needed to be done to complete repair snubber ring , washer drive belt, & leveling machine all played there roll in putting washer back in factory working condition washer not a angery walking vibration nightmare