A300S Maytag Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Dean from Lynnwood, WA
- Parts Used:
- 206154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Leak due to torn hose
Loosen one hose clamp, slide old hose off fitting, disconnect hose from washer tub. Apply liquid soap to both ends of new hose to make it easy to slip onto the fitting and the tub. Slip hose clamp on one end, fit other end to washer tub, slip hose onto fitting, tighten clamp.
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- Customer:
- Homer from HARVEST, AL
- Parts Used:
- 12112425
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
belt started smelling like something was burning
watch the video and it was very simple replace belts like they show on the video. lay the washer on it back and the belts was visabile. removed the small belt and then removed large belt, and replace the large belt and small belt. i used no tools. that because i lay the machine on it back.
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- Customer:
- Michael from New York, NY
- Parts Used:
- 204660
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
torn hose from injector to top of tub
removed front panel (2 screws at base)
Raised lid panel (2 Screws under panel)
Removed old hose and water injector (2 clamps)
Installed new hose and injector and resecured panels
Raised lid panel (2 Screws under panel)
Removed old hose and water injector (2 clamps)
Installed new hose and injector and resecured panels
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- Customer:
- Charles from Chalfont, PA
- Parts Used:
- WP6-2022030, 12112425
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Washer was not draining completely & at times a small amount of water would leak from under the washer.
Followed the instructions on-line. Pulled the washer out from the wall, tipped it back about 45 deg. & removed the two philips screws as the base of the front of the washer.Removed the old belts which showed little wear, disconnected the hoses from the pump. Replaced the pump which was held in by only 3 nut-head screws, attached the belts & adjusted the tesnion as described on the website.
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Washer would not agitate.
Since my missus keeps her appliances like new, it behoves us to buy something of good quality when new. We did that. Now, after almost 20 years, the washer complained it needed new belts, which I complied. Tilted it up against the wall after pulling power cord. Removed both belts and replaced. Adjusted pump belt by loosening pump and then retightening. This is easy to get to by removing front (removing 2 philips screws). Piece of cake.
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- Customer:
- Toni from Glendale, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WP6-2022030
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
pump was leaking water
Unplug washer and shut off water valves. Remove water hoses from the faucets and caught the water in the hoses in a bucket. I removed the drain hose from the back of the washer and caught the water in the bucket. Remove front panel by removing 2-screws at bottom and tilting it out to come off. Disconnected the hoses to the pump and caught most of the water in the bucket.. An old towel stuffed under the bottom pan of the washer, under the pump hole caught most of the rest of the water. Tip the washer on its back and removed the belt coming from the motor. Removed 3-screws that hold the pump on and angled the pulley end through the hole in the bottom of the washer. I just reversed the procedure to install the new pump and everything else. I would have replaced the hoses and belts, but I had just done that about a couple of years ago, when I replaced the connector at the top back of the washer for the hose from the pump and hose to the drain in the wall, that had a crack in it and was leaking.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Cranberry TWP, PA
- Parts Used:
- 6-2095720
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
Washer leaked during fill and cycle
Followed the first guys directions.
remove front
lift top
remove agitator
remove locking nut clockwise
remove inner tub
remove Mounting S loosen set screw and clockwise also
clean well
replace boot as shown in tip in sheet
push boot on completely
remove front
lift top
remove agitator
remove locking nut clockwise
remove inner tub
remove Mounting S loosen set screw and clockwise also
clean well
replace boot as shown in tip in sheet
push boot on completely
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- Customer:
- Alan from CUMMING, GA
- Parts Used:
- WP6-2022030
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
I had a Burning Rubber smell, along with water leaking from the bottom of machine.
I propped up the machine. Turned the water off .took the pump belt off, then took the two hose clamps off. With a bucket and towels on hand for left over water in the hoses, i removed the two hoses. Then removed three screws that held the pump on. Installed the new pump in reverse order.
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- Customer:
- Dan from NOVI, MI
- Parts Used:
- 12112425
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Squeaky belt noise when running washer + rubber burning smell.
Tilt washer. Remove old belts. Put in new. Tighten transmission bet and pump belt per YouTube. It works like new now.
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- Customer:
- Roland from Hudson, NY
- Parts Used:
- 6-2095720
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Agitator in washer wobbles
Loosened the set screw and removed the agitator, found nothing wrong. Replaced the agitator and tightened set screw, no more wobble.
This is a mid 1970 Maytag and a workhorse.Had three kids wash over the years, now "kids" in their late 30's and early 40' and washer is as good as new (except a little rusty)
First time I had a problem with it. Sometimes just look for the simple things !
Part select refunded me for my part that I ordered very fast.
Great Company to deal with!
This is a mid 1970 Maytag and a workhorse.Had three kids wash over the years, now "kids" in their late 30's and early 40' and washer is as good as new (except a little rusty)
First time I had a problem with it. Sometimes just look for the simple things !
Part select refunded me for my part that I ordered very fast.
Great Company to deal with!
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- Customer:
- Corey from Mehoopany, PA
- Parts Used:
- 206154
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
Bad injector tube
Could not complete because sent the wrong part (just a seal instead of the tube) several times, in spite of talking on the phone for hours. Eventually gave up and ordered from another company.
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- Customer:
- Patrick Luke from Loma, CO
- Parts Used:
- WP6-0A57420
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
leaking gear box oil at bottom was the original problem. Replaced bottom oil seal.
Then found agitator shaft was rusted to spin shaft. Worked on that for awhile. Motor then burnt out. I quit and bought new machine. I had ordered a top end seal from you guys. I trashed the machine before your seal arrived. Called you. Nice lady said she would send an E mail so I could return unused seal. That message has not arrived yet.
Pat Wehling
Pat Wehling
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- Customer:
- William from Bedford, MA
- Parts Used:
- 6-2095720
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
30-Year Old Maytag Model 408 Washer Tank Leaking
This washer was purchased in the early 1980s and is different from the one in the video and other repair instructions. You can recognize this earlier model by the agitator design. It only has the 4 paddles that start at the bottom and does not have the auger design on the upper part of the spindle as the newer ones do. While I was able to get the agitator to pop off by threading thin ropes under it and using a four-foot board as a lever, that was the end of my successful efforts. Even with the special tool and a five pound hammer, the lock nut would not budge -- even after overnight soaking in WD40. Yes, I did recognize the reverse threading. My next attempt would have been to heat the lock nut with a butane torch, but I gave up at this point and purchased a new washing machine on my way to pick up the torch. Would be curious to know if anyone else has had success with this older model as I saw other differences in the design that suggested that it may not have been compatible with this kit.
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- Customer:
- Jon from TULSA, OK
- Parts Used:
- 6-2095720
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
We were seeing leakage on any but the smallest load size - higher water levels were pushing the worn seal back, not a total seal failure.
Viewed the very helpful video on your website, that spelled out all the steps to follow. The key point is to not forget the spanner nuts are left handed threads - even after noting that from the video, started the removal in the wrong direction, then caught my error and moved on through the disassembly process. In my case, I took time to deal with a lot of soap buildup cleanup in the outer tub, and even cleaned and put rust inhibiting paint on a few spots to try to get a little longer life out of the old machine. This repair cost far less than replacing it, and should get us several more years of service.
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- Customer:
- J Noel from Hockessin, DE
- Parts Used:
- 6-2095720
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
leaking water under machine in center
key to repair is to watch the video on mounting stem/tub seal as seen thru parts select. However, they use a nice new, clean,sanitized washer that may not reflect a 23 year old washer like mine. They give you the basics and it is invaluable to watch if you have never done this before. I strongly advise you buy a real spanner wrench made for your make. You may never need it again but it makes it much easier. Trying to use a punch or using a dremmel to operate on your large 'nuts' is, well, nuts! Get the wrench, just part of the cost of repair. See ebay. The first thing I noticed different between the video and my real life unit is the water hose connected to the washer, at the top of the tub cover. This did not exist in the video, but it is the way on my unit. So I did not disconnect it, just folded the top out of the way and tied it up. Then of course my real gripe with the video is that I have the old time band around the tub and the barrell, holding them together. They do not mate up very well and are not easy to put back together properly. In fact, installing the stem seals was easy and it fixed the original leak. I might add when you buy the replacement parts, you actually get 3 new parts. I suggest you use all the new parts in the package. You paid for them, you need them. Again the video only talks about replacing the very bottom seal, never mentioning the other parts they sold you in the bag. It is easy to figure out how to replace the other parts, they look like the ones you took off to get to the very bottom seal. Use all the new parts, regardless. So the only real issue is putting the band back on to hold the tub to the drum. We did not get it correct the first time and the unit would not spin, I had the top down too far. You could smell the rubber burning from the drive belt. They forgot to tell us about that!! Bums. So we loosened up the band, raised up the top piece and got it to spin. Of course, we did a large load, filled the water to the highest level allowed and when the unit hit the spin cycle, we got a leak from under the band. Thx video. To fix that we decided to never use the highest water level. So far so good. I can tell you the engineers failed on the design to mate up the cover to the tub. Other than that this can be done by us goobers, just take your time. And good luck. I must also thank my helper, neighbor John . for his added wisdom and support.
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