MAH14PNAEW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Using online disassembly instructions removed and replaced front and rear bearings. Then attempted to install the seal kit that was purchased online from partselect. Com. Was supposed to receive both seals plus lubricant so that no matter which seal I needed I would be covered. The kit I received had 2 seals that were identical. . . I needed, as it turned out the early seal kit, but unfortuneatly I had 2 revised kits. Of course I tried to assemble one but it just won't work. The seal kit must be the correct one. I didn't give up. I ordered another seal kit online from appliance partspros. Com and received both kits as advertized. . . One being the early version plus a small packet of grease along with all the other required loose parts and was able to complete the repair. The second time around proved much easier because of the experience factor.

Followed the instructions that were supplied with the Lip Seal Kit, for removal of the inner drum. As expected, once into the project, I found that the bearings that are part of the outer drum, were bad. Reading other installation blogs, prior to starting, I knew the bearing sizes, 6206-2RS & 6207-2RS, and I purchased the bearings, from Motion Industries, before starting the project. Taking a hammer and long 1/2" socket extension I was able to remove both the inner and outer bearings form the outer drum. (Bearings were all but seized up) Once I had cleaned up the aluminum hub which is part of the outer drum and where the bearings mount, I was able to start the process of installing the new bearings and completing the project. Timing could not have been any better to take on this repair project because the aluminum hub was showing major signs of corrosion on the inner side of the hub. I was concerned that the new lip seal would not seal off the inner drum from the bearings/outer durm. This project was competed on 8/21/12 and so far and 6 loads later I have not found any leaks.

Followed the video, besides the spring, everything was easy.

Follow the suggestions on the rope tied to the side of the washer, then mechanically lever the spring open. Only change I would incorporate is using a block of wood to keep the wash drum from moving over as you pull on the rope to open the spring up. GREAT AND EASY FIX!

Had to remove the door, the face of the washer, and two face pieces between the washer and the stacked drier. I then removed and replaced the bellow. The installation of the new bellow was difficult, the first time. Getting the silicone part onto the tub is tricky as is re-installing the cable and spring. I must have not gotten the cable properly seated on the lower lip as it leaked and I hade to repeat the job the next day. The second time around was much easier. There is a learning curve, even for me, a retired electro mechanical tech. I thing someone who is not very handy would have trouble with it. This repair should be considered only by someone of intermediate or better skills.

This is a stacked Neptune washer. You must take the door, front covers of the machine, plus remove the light and wax motor section to the side. You must disconnect the bleach and softener dispenser connections near the bottom of the washer to get the front portion off so that you can get to the boot. Catch the excess water in a pan to avoid getting the electrical circuit board wet. Take the boot off. This is easy, but the spring that holds the small cable around the boot is a bit tough. You can do this with the needle nose vise grips. Place the boot on the tub first making certain that the small notches in the boot line up properly onto the washer ridges. I had to use a 2 X 2 to pry the tub down so that my friend could get the boot lined up on the tub. Some stretching of the boot is required. Place the cable around the boot on the washer and use a strong mason's cord or similar cord and tie the ends of the cable as tight as you can get it so that the cord holds the cable in place. Place one end of the spring into the cable end and taking the needle nose vise grips pull the spring until it can be placed into the other end of the cable. When finished, take a knife and cut the cord and pull it out. The spring is very strong so it is difficult to pull it into place. Since I am old, I had to enlist a friend who is an appliance repairman to get the spring on. That is the most difficult part. Lastly, you get some dish soap and place around the inner part of the boot where it fits onto the other section of the washer so that you can get it on easily. Reassemble the parts and everything should work OK. Don't remove the plug at the bottom of the new boot unless your washer happens to have the drain connection.

I just followed what others have already noted. The only challenge was the spring as others have already stated many times. You will need help but be patient and you'll make it work.

Accessing the bearing housing was quite easy and the PartSelect videos were quite informative. Upon removing the lip seal the bearings obviously needed to be replaced. The bearings needed to be purchased from a local supplier and we used Grainger #6L028 (rear bearing) and #6L029 (front bearing). We needed to apply a generous amount of Liquid Wrench and used a long drive punch pin and a 3-jaw pilot bearing puller to remove the bearings. After removing the rear bearing we broked the puller on the front bearing, but were able to remove with the punch pin with the access created at the rear of the drum. Reinstalling the bearings was text book, we used a long bolt with large washers to pull the front and rear bearings together, with the spacer inserted between them.

Being a seventy five year old man I was reluctant to taking on this job but after getting prices for the repair or replacing the machine I cringed and trying to save some money I took on this job.Got all the information I could find on line I got started.Taking machine apart was easy and remembering to keep parts separated is something I learned from my mechanical back round is a must.Pictures also help.Taking out spinner drum easy.Bearings a nightmare If you don't have a bearing removal tool.Front bearing had to be cut out with a dremel tool and zip wheel being careful not to destroy the race.Removed spindel from spinner drum as I could see that for me to put shaft in hole would have been a problem.Put new improved seal in.Easy part.Reassembled. Springs and clips hard.Washing again and quiet.Wife happy four days later.Old guy sore.All done with outer tub in machine.Estimated savings Big,Big,Big.Getting big steak dinner and big kiss.

I went on your site and found out the Bearings were not sold separately by Maytag and that they wanted $800.00 for the entire outer tub in which the bearings are pressed into. I read another post on your site where someone referenced some NSK bearing part numbers. I went to my local auto parts store that cross referenced the NSK number to Timken Bearings (a high quality automotive bearing). Following the instructions I hammered out what was left of the old bearings cleaned everything and pressed in the new bearings. When the Lip Seal kit arrived I pressed in the new seal following the instructions provided, reassembled the washer and it’s as good as new. Total cost just over $100 in parts and a few hours labor. Removal of the old bearings was a difficult task especially since mine were in such bad condition as water must have been slowly leaking into them for some time. If you have some basic automotive repair skills and or some knowledge of how to remove and replaced pressed in bearings I would recommend this repair. In my case money was the motivating factor with 2 kids in college and a wife who would have insisted on a new matching set of a washer and a dryer instead of just replacing the washer.

I referenced the enclosed instructions, and U tube videos, along with gasket I also changed the bearings for about $40. From local grainger, it seems to have solved problem, thanks for quick shipping,

Following the information on the web it simplified this repair a great deal. Disassembled the front of the machine, then pulled it out from the wall, removed the rear panel. Removed the belt & pulley and knocked the shaft loose from bearings. Removed the tub and using the brass bar drove the rear bearing out first then removed the seal and front bearing. The seal has to come out first so the plastic spacer can be removed, used the brass bar from the rear of machine to drive front bearing out. Cleaned up all parts and reassemblied. Replaced the motor isolators and drive belt with new since I was in the machine that far. Removed the soap & bleach tray and cleaned up all those parts. re-assembled and washed a load of rags to test machine. Sounded like a new machine. Sourced the new bearings from a bearing supplier they are 6200 Series bearings, Rear 6206-2RS; Front - 6207-2RS. Had I not made this repair I would have been buying a new washer & dryer so this job for a little over a hundred bucks saved me thousands! Thanks to PARTSELECT for all this information!!

Repair was simpl, took about 3 1/2 hours +. Used on line video for dismantal information & reassembling. Hammered out old bearings and seals. Installed them with big bolt and old bearings, I used the old bearings as pushing tools for new bearings. The large bolt and nut pulled the bearings in to place at the same time. Installed seal and reassembled machine. I moved from Jester to King at home.

I am happy when PartSelect included the instruction video, so I completed my repair that easy. Thanks the PartSelect. Davis Dao

Well, if a picture is worth a thousand words, the repair video is priceless! Without it, this repair would have been more difficult, but it was so easy to follow along with the video while doing the repair. I rated it easy, but the reinstallation of the wire and spring holding the bellow in place requires significant pulling power. It took a couple tries to get it on, but other than that, the rest of it is cake. From start to finish, the job took less than an hour, but set aside some time for cleaning behind the washing machine if you haven't pulled it out in a while! Also, I have to mention that the part I received was an identical genuine Maytag part and not a remanufactured knock off. The fit and finish was perfect.