A702S Maytag Washer - Instructions

Looked online and found a video for the repair consistent with a water leak. Two screws to remove the front panel of the washer, loosen two hose clamps, remove belt (by hand) and three screws to remove old water pump. Replaced pump, replaced belt (made sure it was tight, but not too tight), replaced water hoses, placed cover back on the front and I was done. Maybe 15 minutes tops. Very, very easy. Works like a charm and saved probably $100 in labor.

Loosen one hose clamp, slide old hose off fitting, disconnect hose from washer tub. Apply liquid soap to both ends of new hose to make it easy to slip onto the fitting and the tub. Slip hose clamp on one end, fit other end to washer tub, slip hose onto fitting, tighten clamp.

I tipped the washing machine (somewhat tricky since it sits under the dryer) and saw the broken belt. Went online, found the belt I needed, bought the set of two belts since I figured it would probably be a good idea to change both belts at the same time. After a few days I had the belts in hand; it took more time to jockey the machine back into place than it did to attach the belts. No tools necessary; the washer parts are on a spring. I did need a screwdriver, however, just to re-attach the washer's front panel.

Well I looked on line to see if there were any similialtys to my problem and followed what they had done on their washing machines. I replaced the water pump,the slide control below the motor,and the lid switch.None of these items worked.I called a tech.and he informed me that it sounds like the transmission is bad ,he is coming to my house tonight to take a look at the machine.

all went well until testing. tub level did not shut the water off, caused a spill

A friend said the cause was probably a belt. On Google we checked the washer model number which took us to your site. We looked at the videos on how to do the repairs, and so ordered a drive belt and pump belt. They arrived in two days. My husband is 84-years-old, I'm 83 -- difficult for us to lift the machine to tilt it. Experimenting with fulcrum and lever, we managed -- that's what took so long. After watching the videos again, I laid on the floor and was able to apply the belts. Washer works great!

watch the video and it was very simple replace belts like they show on the video. lay the washer on it back and the belts was visabile. removed the small belt and then removed large belt, and replace the large belt and small belt. i used no tools. that because i lay the machine on it back.

removed front panel (2 screws at base)

Raised lid panel (2 Screws under panel)

Removed old hose and water injector (2 clamps)

Installed new hose and injector and resecured panels

Followed the instructions on-line. Pulled the washer out from the wall, tipped it back about 45 deg. & removed the two philips screws as the base of the front of the washer.Removed the old belts which showed little wear, disconnected the hoses from the pump. Replaced the pump which was held in by only 3 nut-head screws, attached the belts & adjusted the tesnion as described on the website.

Removed wet close and removed 99% of all the water with a simple sifon hose and sponges. Diconnected electric and water supply hoses. Layed washer on its back. Removed front of washer. Disconnected hoses to water pump and checked for blockage. None. You need to capture the risidual water from the hoses and the pump if you are working in an area that cannot tolerate spills. Pulled pump out (three screws) put a screwdriver and blocked the pump impellar and rotate the punps pully. Pully rotaded freely so the pump is bad. The two belts were pretty worn out so I replaced them also. Hooked up everything in reverse. Adjusted the tension of the belts as required. The drive belt for the pump should be pinched to 1/4". Checked the moter glides also. Put everything back together, checked for leaks and did a load of wash. Everything good. Dismanteling and diagnostics and clean up took about 30'. Assembly took another 30'. Purts fit perfectly.

First I took the door off. Undid two screws that held the top door on. Took the tub out. Make sure you have a spanner wrench. So much easier.

First I bought a Maytag spanner wrench on eBay, you have to have it. It was $12.00 including shipping. Then when the parts showed up the next day followed the video and had it done in just under an hour from gathering my tools and cleaning up. The video was perfect and I had no troubles what so ever. The quote from the repair services was $280.00 and I did it for less than $90.00

Based on info from website, sounded like it was the Belt Kit that needed replacing. While waiting for the Belt Kit, decided to take the Agitator out to have a "look-see". OMG! There was liquid fabric softener gunk so thick in, around, underneath the agitator that the unit could not get traction. The burning smell was the gunk getting hot as the agitator tried to work. After a thorough cleaning of the agitator and anything relating to it's ability to agitate, my Maytag is performing like it was brand new! I'm keeping the Belt Kit, because my washer is older and I've heard from friends and family that have purchased the new water restricted units, absolutely hate them; like the "low flow" toilets, instead of flushing once, you now have to flush 5 times. They are washing more smaller loads and double rinsing each load to get their clothes clean and free of residue. I'm a 69 year old woman who finds your website and your marvelous contributors an absolute Blessing!

Removed 2 Philip screws from bottom front panel. The belts came as a set, so pay attention to the belt sizes when replacing them. Have had the new belts installed now for a week or longer with no issues. Looks like a good fix.

Chalked the transmission with a pipe wrench. Removed the brake with grabbing on to it with vicegrips and hammered on the vicegrips to remove the brake. The new brake spun on after the first two brakes didn't. Working great now!