MAV7650AWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

pop top,remove 2 screws,remove front panel.remove 2 spring clamps from tub hose.reverse!

Pump is readily accessible at the back of the machine by taking off the access cover. First step is to disconnect power and remove drive belt off tub pulley which is the largest in the center - the takeup is in the drive motor mount but it seems easier to turn the larger pulley and wind the belt off. There are three 3/8 hex mount screws fastening the pump to the washer base and two hose spring clamps attaching the tub drain hose and outlet drain hose to the pump. Follow the directions in the utube video which is the best (most others don't give detailed directions and best method). The only caution I would give is that there is some water in the drain hoses so be prepared to mop it up with sponge and bucket or have some towels available. Install new pump (loose assemble two visible screws to locate pump and then loose assemble far side blind screw and tighten all 3),replace hoses snug to stops and assemble clamps, replace access panel and replace drive belt and plug washer back in.

This was a very easy fix.....roll belt off....roll new belt on....seemed to help not sure if it fixed problem....might try pulley and bearing kit next

Lift the lid and remove the auto-soap dispenser using a coin to turn the four locks. You will see a cloths hanger diameter wire that is held in place by nylon segments. The right end of the wire goes through the right hinge bushing. This is the torsion rod that hold the lid closed. There is a bushing that is on this rod and that is the part that fits into the hinge bushing. Remove this rod assembly by first removing the center nylon segment. Then pull out and the the left on the left hand side of the assy. Then fish it out of the right hinge bushing. Pay attention to how it is removed so you can replace it easily. I then replaced the broken hing bushing by pulling the broken one out with pliers. The new one snaps in. Now look at the bushing that is on the far right side of the rod that fits into the right hinge bushing. It will likely by seized up and corroded. Clean the corrosion off of the outside and use a lube to loosen the bushing so it will revolve freely around the rod. Now put it back together and your problem will be gone.

I first had to take the old part out to find out what the part number was. Then I went online and ordered the part. Once the part came in I attached to part and replaced the drive belt. I did not think it could be so easy.

Remove back compartment, remove belt disconnect two water rubber tubes from the drain pump, unscrew three screws securing the drain pump from the frame. Replace with a new drain pump, secure to frame with thee screws, reconnect rubber tubes, and replace belt.

Turned off the water supply. Removed clothing and bailed out water fro tub. Removed back access panel. Turned washer over to access the bottom and removed drive belt by turning the large pulley attached the drum while pulling the belt over the pulley. Next remove the two hoses attached to the pump, remove the screws holding the pump on and remove the pump. Replace the pump by reversing the procedure, as for replacing the drive belt, place the belt on the motor and pump first and start it on the larger pulley and hold it on while you turn the pulley, it will pull the motor adjustment as you turn and when fully in the pulley it will be properly adjusted. Then replace the access panel, turn the washer upright, push back in place, turn on the water supply and replace the drain hose. Back in business. For me, while I was waiting for the new pump to arrive, I took the time to remove the agitator and tub and give it a good cleaning inside and out, but that's me.

I have a Maytag Atlantis ser.# MAV7600aww, I purchased in 2001. There are five screws to remove from the back of the control panel. The panel tilts forward. Push the front part of the bottom of the panel back and lift and the timer is easily accessible. Plastic hooks/hinges hold the panel in pal;ce. Fortunately I did not have to replace the timer.

I wanted to do a deep cleaning as some mold had begun to sour the inside of the drain tub. When I pulled the front panel off I discovered a loose plug on the motor. I Reconnected it and problem SOLVED!!!

Partselect.com was by far the best price and the return policy looked unbeatable. I am very happy with Partselect.com and would do business with them again!!! (Thank you, Lacey!!!!!!)

Actually I got on YouTube and looked up the problem and watch the short video of it and went from there and it showed me how to take everything apart what the problems were and as I did take it apart and found out it was exactly what they said I simply reversed it just ordered the parts and put them in and took my time to make sure that everything was to specs as I've measured the clearance of the break and said all the hardware back in place it was quite simple yet it was just time consuming took me about two and a half hours but it runs quiet spins great just like a brand new one I couldn't be more pleased with it and I saved quite a bit of money doing it myself

As a 78 year old senior, I no longer have the upper strength and agility to remove the springs. Had to remove the washer casing (9 screws and 3 bolts), which gave me full access to r disconnect the springs, remove the tub, replace the snubber ring and reinstall the springs. The complete repair took me 6 hours, no assistance and was very thankful for the excellent videos available online.
Parts arrived in 3 days, fantastic delivery service, great prices and fixed my washer for $107.

Unplug machine, lift about 6 inches to remove drive belt. Able to reproduce squeal by rotating pump pulley by hand. Remove front panel by using screwdriver to release retainer springs on either top corner about 1.5 inches in from corner, no need to remove control panel for this. Lift top panel to access screws behind front cover and remove (be careful here as sheet metal has sharp edges), lean front panel forward and lift off. Release hose clamps and remove from pump (hose clamp on discharge is spring type, channel locks work well here), keep towel nearby as there will be some residual water in the hoses and pump. Remove 3 bolts from top of pump to remove. Lift pump straight up to remove. Installation is reverse of removal, belt can be installed without tools (at least on series 10) as the motor pivots easily, place belt on transmission pulley first, then on pump and motor last this way you can pivot motor and slowly rotate motor pulley to guide belt on. Very easy repair, just take your time and you should have no problems.

A few youtube videos to replace the motor and belt. From there on out it was pretty easy. Separate the top from the spring clips. Remove front panel. Remove motor once inside and remove belt from underneath. After motor was out, Remove base from old motor and attach to new. Reassemble and voila. Good as new.

Unlike most videos, mine had a solid frame, no access panels. Following, is my disassembly & repair: I disconnected the water supply lines and drain hose. I slid the washer out into the center of the garage & removed the 9 base screws from the base plate. I slid the frame away from the base, leaving the working parts exposed. After pulling the working mechanisms from the outer frame, I turned it (drum, transmission & base) upside down. I used a pair of vise grips, pinched them onto each spring & removed them, using a downward motion it was a lot easier. I placed the base plate aside, removed 3 opposing screws holding the snubber ring & put 3 longer 8-32 screws in to hold the brake assembly. Then I removed the 3 remaining screws, lifted the plate & replaced the ring. Then I reversed the process, replacing the old springs with new ones & finished the job in about 2 hours.

Shut-off water + power.With the putty knive; slide it under the front of the top to push back on the spring clips.The top will lift easily and it is hinged.The Water inlet unit in the back has a plastic cover.Remove carefully.One screw holds the unit in place. Remove and the the unit will slide out to the left. It's now easy to disconnect the hoses from the unit. The wiring to the coils is color coded,take note for proper reconnecting. Remove stakon connectors from the valve coils. Careful, do not pull on the wire but wiggle it of the coil connection.Pay attention to the routing of the wire harness. Also the kit comes with a clear plastic splash shield. make sure the new goes in the right place.Now the old water inlet valve can be removed from the metal bracket.One srew.Assembly goes in reverse

I unplugged the machine, tipped it back slightly and rested in on a gallon paint can. I inspected the under side and manually advanced the fan belt to hear if I could hear the noise at the water pump. The pump pulley and shaft was worn and there were metal shavins (small) on surface of pulley.

Then I removed the belt from the pulley, rested the machine back to normal position, removed front panel (two sheet metal screws on inside top), removed the water pump hoses (htere is water int he hose & pump assembly so you will get some water on floor.

Then I removed the pump and ordered a new one. The installation was the reverse, machine works like new and the washer tub spins better than ever during the final rinse and spin, since the worn water pump was binding and stressing the machine.

Thanks to Part Select - Your website is awesome and your service instructions and user advice gave me the confidence to do the repair myself. I saved $150 - $250 for the repair.