CAV4004AGW Magic Chef Washer - Instructions

The lid switch is on the right side top of the washer under the lid. I took a putty knife and found the clips that hold the top of the washer and pushed them to release it. I then lifted it up to fully see the lid switch. I unplugged the washer from the wall socket and took out the 2 screws that holds the lid switch in. Then unplugged the lid switch from its electrical connection and put the new one in its place. Washer is working great so far.

I first changed the belt which helped but it still sounded like it was going to take off through the roof.....I did the pulley and bearing kit in hopes that it would do some good....it went really smoothly with no issues however it did not solve the problem....so it is working and I am going to just ride it out until it quits....thanks

Unpluged washer,moved from wall,unclip upper assembly&support it. Remove LITTLE acess panel on rear and front panel. Removed springs & two hoses,drive belt and out it comes...flip unit over to LOOSEN ONLY 6 sdcrews to remove old snubber & install new one. Reverse procedure to reinstall. BE WARNED,springs can be a sob to reinstall!unit),The acess on rear to springs is horrible!

used putty knife to to raise the top, took out two screws, replaced parts , then closed the top.

Changing the hinge was not difficult, but here's a hint: the top of the washer raises up if you pry it with a big screwdriver- be sure to wrap the screwdriver in a cloth so as not to scratch the appliance. Doing it this way makes it easy to access the retaining screws. You can push the wash tub to one side and reach the screws from underneath, but they're a tight fit and doing it that way is difficult. Overall a pretty easy repair and I'm only moderately handy.

i removed 3 screws from back of washer , took off 2 hose clamps , then i took 4 screws out of waterpump, removed belt . put new pump on very easy. thanks part was perfect, fixed problem

First I pulled the washer to an open area.
Then removed fluid line going to tub.
Removed tub by removing springs.
Turned tub upside down, removed the belt pulley, and held the ring under the snubber ring with C clamps while removing 6 screws holding assembly together. Released the pressure on the C clamps slowly until spring pressure was gone.
Replaced snubber, and installed ring holding assembly. Replaced ring plate, and C clamps going back in place with equal pressure until seated. Replaced 6 screws, and pulley assembly, and all fluid lines and new spring kit.
WALA..... WORKS GREAT for less than $25.

Thanks

Disconnect Power. Disconnect supply hoses. Open top by releasing top retainer clips with a thin blade or putty knife. Remove 2 sheet metal screws retaining front cover. Remove front cover. Lay a blanket on the floor and lay the machine over on its side leaving access to the front where the panel was just removed. Take belt off. Remove pump hose at bottom of drum. Prop up drum so it is centered in its normal position and not laying to one side. Do this near the lid end. Remove all centering springs - carefully. Drum and transmission assy will now come out through the front opening. Flip drum assy upside down with transmission up. Loosen the screws (do not remove completely - WARNING OF 200 LBS SPRING LOAD!) that clamp the snubber ring to the transmission. Remove the old snubber ring and replace with new. Be sure it is completely under the flange all the way around. Tighten the retaining ring screws. Reassemble all parts in reverse order. Done. Be sure to level the machine per owners manual instructions.

Mostly I followed the video instructions from partselect's youtube channel. The snubber is very simple to replace. Once the tub is removed, the snubber drops down around the hole and the tub gets put back. The springs hold the tub down, and need to be removed. They are a challenge because they are very strong. The vice grips come in handy to grab the springs and hold them. The best trick I've seen for doing the springs is to use about 10 nickels. When installing the spring, bend it and place the nickels in the spirals of the spring, alternating sides with five going in the left and five in the right. When you go to put the spring in, it will be expanded so it almost fits the distance, and there's less required to pull it into place. Once in place, some nickels fall out and the rest can be removed easily. It also helps to have a second person who can push the tub towards the spring you're trying to install, to make the distance smaller.

I changed the piece easily

Removed front panel from washer,removed belt, used 1/2 inch socket setand channel locks to remove hose and pump. Installed new pump, reinstalled hoses and belt, and placed front panel on machine.

We removed the top fabric softner cup from the broken agitator top, and then used the socket and extention to remove the nut. We removed the broken agitator and replaced it with the new one. We then tightened the nut and replaced the softner cup.

Replaced pump because pulley did not come off pump without breaking pump in half.

Took the front panel off. The springs looked old, but not sprung. The reasonable cost of the parts and the video showing how easy it appeared to install new springs convinced me to try this myself. I am definitely not a handyman, so this was concerning. I unhooked the three springs in the front and replaced them fairly easily because they were accessible. Stretching the springs was quite a challenge. a vice-grip vs. a standard pliers is recommended. I learned from another testimonial on this site that tipping the washtub toward the springs when you try to reconnect them helped. GREAT TIP! The three springs in the back were only accessible via a small panel, making them more difficult to replace. I recommend you take the front springs off first, then the back ones, tip the tub toward the back to replace the back springs first, then go after the front three springs by pulling the tub forward. Having someone help with the tub will make this easier. (I didn't have that luxury.) My washing machine is not a "walking" machine any more. And no banging either!

Washer was shaking/thumping during the spin cycle for even the lightest loads. Previously changed the suspension springs, and the problem was not resolved.

I was able to locate the service manual for this washing machine online and download the PDF for free. Getting this will provide dis-assembly instructions and photos.

Sorta like requiring that you disassemble an engine in order to change the oil filter. Engineering suggestion here for any Maytag folks cruising the site. Mount the snubber ring with it's own clamping ring so that you can change it (snubber) without removing the agitator & spinner basket from the tub. Think something like this... Remove suspension springs, remove hoses, flip entire assy. upside down, then replace snubber ring without any further dis-assembly.

I followed the service manual's recommended approach, here are the basic steps:

1) Open the small back cover and detach the wash drum's drain hose at the waste pump, and while you've got back of the unit visible, tip forward and unhook the drive belt from the motor, pump and agitator.

2) Use a spatula or putty knife on the front seam between the lid and the lower body to unlock the spring latches which keep the top on. Flip the top up and back to get into the basket area. Take off the front cover so you can see the wash drum.

3) Remove the top cap/splash guard around the wash drum by pressing the cap/splash guard down while unhooking the little ears.

4) Remove the fabric softener cap from the center of the agitator and remove the bolt that's down the center of the agitator. This will require a socket. Remove agitator and plastic skirt that goes around the bottom of the agitator.

5) Remove the plastic sealing nut. This nut has a number of small plastic points on it and I broke a number of them off with the channel-locks while removing this. You may need to order a spare.

6) Remove the washing drum.

7) Use the spanner to remove the basket hub. I made a spanner out of some scrap steel parts I had and mounted using the screws I took out in step 5. If you have a spanner, you're set here.

8) Unhook the suspension springs and you should be able to lift the entire unit right out of the base.

9) Remove the cap on the bottom pulley and pull the E-clip that holds locks the pulley in place. Remove the pulley and plastic gears which mesh with the transmission shaft.

9) The snubber ring (the problem here) is located under the brake plate/ring on the very bottom. The brake assembly is preloaded with a spring inside, the manual says to use a special spring compressor while assembling. I didn't have any trouble holding it down while I had my 5 year-old daughter start the screws for me. Remove the 6 small screws around the brake ring and remove the shards of the worn out snubber. Replace with new snubber and start re-assembly.

Possible Shortcut:

After doing this, I see it may be possible to shortcut the factory directions. I can't guarantee that it will be successful, but after doing it I don't see any reason it wouldn't work. Following above numbers:
1) Do numbers 1-3 above.

2) Jump to step 8, remove the suspension springs and just get the entire drum removed and inverted. Don't mess with the legs, don't mess with the attachments or anything. You will only need to work on the pulley.

3) Remove the drive pulley and brake retaining plate. Shouldn't need to do anything with the inside of the washing drum here. No need to mess with the seals and/or plastic nuts.

4) Replace snubber and reassemble.