F1387FDS LG Washer - Instructions

pops right into hole

I actually did the repair exactly as the video showed. If I would have had the part at the time of discovering the problem it would have been about a 45 minute repair from start to finish. Worst part of the whole fix was moving the heavy washer.

Unplug and disconnect water lines. Move washer out. I used soapy water to make it easier to slide because it is stacked washer and dryer. Slid dryer onto large trash can saving my back. So easy. Make sure it is heavy duty . Removed lid. Removed old part by removing to screws in back. Disconnected 3 wires, disconnected one hose at a time while reattaching each one to new part. That way I was sure to get them back in the right place. Attached back to machine . Put water hoses back on and checked for leaks before but lid and dryer back in place. Ta da!! This was so easy. I am a 57 year old woman and this was pretty simple. I tried trouble shooting by using tub cleaner and everything as manual suggested but it still leaked. Watch a lot of you tube. Apparently lg has this happen with this part a lot. Thank you parts select. I’m sure this saved me a lot of money. I have had enough money bleeding from my pockets with bigger home problems. Thank you.

Do not start this project without the required spring expansion tool for the retaining ring springs.
Nearly impossible without it.

Figured out how to take off top of washer, look inside for problem, ordered new part, watched video how to replace part. All on line. $65.00 later and my 19 yr old washer is still working awesome.

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

I used another magnet to pull the old plunger out of the door and replaced it with the new part.

Just put in the new one.

removed top and front. heater is at the base of the tub. the nut compresses the rubber seal and may take some wiggling to remove the old one.

Unpluged -shut off water removed 2 screws on lid,removed lid took 2 screws out holding part on swapped the hoses out and pluged wires in.

followed video exactly and it worked perfectly

I followed the video. Everything worked exactly as described. i ran a quick cycle and everything seemed to be fine. Started a wash and the machine was going fine but stopped, and wouldn't drain. I thought that maybe it might be the Rotor Position Sensor assembly, which I had already purchased just in case.But first i drained the machine and checked out the pump filter. Plugged solid. I'm guessing when the pump went there must have been a lot of lint and debris in the machine. something you might want to check out, after that repair. Thanks. you guys saved me a couple of hundred dollars

1 tilt washer back
2 remove cover plate screw from front of drain filter access panel.
3 Remove cover plate and remove 2 more mounting screws .
4 go below washer and pull down sliding clip and move pump assembly back.
5 remove wires and 3 mounting screws around pump housing
6 Swap pump and re-attch wires

Used Youtube to look for a set of repair instructions. From start to end 35 min.

The difficult part was getting the door back on. Only 1 Youtube video I watched stated Do not remove the 2 center screws at the top. Wish I had seen that video first.

Overall very easy to do.