WM2032HS LG Washer - Instructions

Watch the videos on u-tube. I used the video where they did not take the top and front of the machine off. Make sure you get the spring pliers because they really do help

Watched the easy video instructions on the product page and did the same on our machine - pop off the top, unscrew the plate from the front of the door inset. Its a little challenging to unplug the old lock assembly because it is a tight fit and not enough room for two hands to fit to provide a bit more leverage when pulling the power lines out, but once its out it is easy to install the new one and reattach the strike plate frame and top of the washer. Plugged back in and we were back in business. This $50 part ended up saving us at least $300 in repair fees to get it working again.

Incredibly fast shipping - arrived in less than 2 days - which was really helpful as we were unable to use the washing machine until we were able to get this fixed. Excellent pricing as well. Couldn't be happier I found this site and the product I needed so easily.

To fix the problem, I simply removed the top cover of the washing machine by removing the two screws on the back of the machine which allowed me to slide the top back and then I lifted it off. Then I disconnected the hot water hose (after shutting off the valve). Next, I removed the electrical connectors on the old part as well as the hose attached to it and unscrewed the old part and removed it and put the new one on and reattached the hoses and the electrical. It worked like a charm. It took me perhaps 10 minutes total.

It was giving me a code got on YouTube it gave the code after that bought a new pump and fix done

First I had to elevate the washer on 3-5 gal. buckets in order to get underneath it and find the leak. Then I tried to repair the hose itself-which actually worked-but then the rest of the hose just started splitting everywhere I touched it. So I ordered the new part which took some careful comparing and examination online. But it was exactly the right part. You have to remove the top of the washer which is just 2 or 3 screws. Then taking the hose out was a little challenge-knowing I would have to put the new one back in carefully. Use Vaseline on rubber fitting at the end of the hose that connects to the washer. Need at least 2 people to raise the washer up in air to work on it.

I removed the top of the washer, pried the front control panel off (pull a couple of electrical connecters or just rest it on something), separated the tub sleeve from the front panel and then removed the front panel (two screws). To remove the pump - just remove a couple of hoses, two wires and slide it out of the clip below. Reverse the process to install. A little daunting if you haven't done something like this before, but easily do-able once you get past your fears. A service call would cost much more than the $60.00 it took to get the part to my front door. This worked out really great - my wash smells fresh once again and my wife has moved on to the next project on her honey-do list!

I took the washer completely apart and ordered any parts that looked worn and put it back together. It’s working like new and will last for a few years

The repair went good but time consuming. I replaced both inner and outer tub bearings along with the tub seal. I removed top by removing two screws in back then pulling back slighty then lifting up. I removed soap tray by pressing down tab and pulling out. Loosened soap dispenser and folded back on top. I removed control panel then front door panel. Remove back panel. Remove motor and shocks and hanging springs which there are two. Disconnect the hoses attached to tub then pull the tub. Remove screws holding the tub halves together. Use punch to remove bearings. NOTE: If you put the bearings in the freezer prior to installing, they go in much easier. I used the old bearing, set it on the new bearing then I tapped the old bearing so not to damage new bearings. I replaced the seal then put everything back together. Not difficult but time consuming.

I removed the tub. Thin included disassembling the washer and disconnecting various hoses electrical connectors to facilitate the removal of the tub from the machine.
Once removed, I separated the two halves of the tub and removed the metal basket to gain access to the bearings and seal.
Removal of the bearings was much harder than expected as they were very difficult to drive out of their pressed in mounting.
I finally was able to remove the bearings and fabricated a press using a piece of all thread and two steel plates to install the new bearings and seal.
I would not attempt to do this again with the proper bearing pullers and an official press to install the bearings gently without beating the tub housing.
This repair I feel is beyond the scope of your average DIY. The bearings can be damaged easily without the specialized tools to install the components.

There are YouTube videos out there that are very helpful. The only place I had to deviate was removing the hoses. They were old and I couldn't separate them from the nozzles. I had to cut them and then remove the small piece on the nozzle. This made the hoses a little shorter and I have to pull them a little harder to get everything put back together but it seemed to all work in the end.

I followed the video on the PartSelect web site for this repair and it went just fine. I also replaced the drain hose while I had everything apart. Thank you PartSelect, same day shipping. Arrived within 3 day's and your video was spot on.

Followed the video instructions provided.

Change the thermistor

Former LG repair looked under washer while it was engaging & noticed motor was not spinning. LG took forever I ordered the part from you guys. It looked different from original. Figured out to take extra port for front loader. I have top loader. Installed washer works great!!

Viewed two (2) on-line video's for bearing replacement. Produced a 40 item "punch list" as to action to perform following video. Followed sequencing of video's. Noted a 10mm and 17 mm socket needed, used 3/8 drive sockets. Also noted that a "deep Socket" of unspecified size used to aid in removal of nylon pins attaching (3) shock absorbers. Found that 1/2 inch sized (SAE) socket in my 1/2 inch drive socket set fit in the confined space nicely. Did not need the "deep sockets" (3 plus inch overall length) rather a normal sized 1/2 drive socket worked nicely to depress the nylon pin retainers. During reassemble replaced outer tub gasket, checked bolt torque six (6) times over 45 min. to assure complete seating.