WM1815CS LG Washer - Instructions

Turn off hot water supply and activate a cycle on the washer momentarily, with hot water selected on front panel options to relieve hose pressure. Slide washer out to gain access to rear of unit. Unplug washer from AC source. Using pliers, remove washer supply hose from washer-side of the line (water may drain from hose) Remove single Phillips screw at bottom of each nylon lid holder at rear. Using a plastic putty knife, place between front panel and top lid to loosen lid and slide to rear. Remove lid and store aside. Hot and cold inlet valves sit side-by-side at top rear of the unit. Disconnect connector from valve by pulling gently away from valve plug prongs and place to the side. Using pliers, compress hose clamp and move to lower section of hose. Carefully rotate hose back and forth to remove from assembly. Inlet valve is held to washer body rear with 3 small Phillips screws. Remove first 2 and then while holding inlet valve body, remove final screw to free inlet valve assembly. Replace with new assembly by reversing these steps.Make certain when supply hose is reconnected, it is firmly tightened but DO NOT over tighten. Test washer by running a cycle to ensure there are no leaks.

I watched a video of how to replace the pump and it showed taking the top and front off to get to it. I actually found this could be done by removing the back panel from the washer. There were two hose clamps you have to squeeze and slide up and two wires going to the pump. There are three screws holding the pump that need to be removed from the front of the washer. Once these are removed all you have to do is push a tab down and the motor slide right out. The pump assembly can also be reached from the bottom of the washer.

I took the back panel off the washer and located where the leak was coming from. It was obviously coming from around where the cold water hose connects. Checked washers in hoses and they were good. Noticed a small drip on the valve assembly that the hose connects too. Took off small panel where the hose connections are mounted....disconnected all 3 black water hoses that connect to it (squeeze metal clamps with pliers and slide hoses off. and numbered them with permanent marker so I wouldn't get my lines crossed later), removed the quick disconnect electrical lines.... removed part and googled the parts diagram on this site.....identified the part in the pic and ordered....it was here in less than 48 hrs with the basic shipping (which stated 3-5 days:)....reassembled the same way I took it apart. I'm prud of myself, it was pretty easy and I'm sure it saved me a lot of money!:)l

We drained the water from the washer via the tiny hose/filter located at the lower left corner of the washing machine. The unit was then pulled away from the wall, unplugged and the hoses disconnected. At this time, we used the wet dry vacuum to suction the water that remained in the drain hose. We tilted the washing machine back until the front of the unit was 18 inches or so off the floor. We used the foot stool to hold the washer up in the air so that we could work on the pump. Replacing the pump was as easy as removing a few screws, unplugging the electrical connections and removing the faulty pump assembly from the plastic housing. (Be sure to mark what connector goes in what terminal). Re-assemble. Re-connect. You are ready to go. It took more time to ready the washer than it did to replace the part.

ordered part from Part Select and it was here very quickly,but the part came damaged (not the fault of Part Select). I ordered another one and PartSelect had it here the next day. I watched the video on how to replace it and it was very helpfull.The particular part I replaced (pump motor) does not seem very durable. I will buy an American made washer the next time I need one. I will use Partselect in the future and recomend it to others.

Followed the instructions that a fellow DIYer posted in PartSelect and a few I watched on Youtube. Pull out the detergent drawer, remove the back screws, slide the top off, unclip the control board, unplug Power & One more switch so that I could move it aside. Take the gasket retention wire off the door gasket & tuck it inside. Remove the screws in the bottom & top. Then slide the front panel, including the door up (not easy) and out. The part received was only the pump motor so I had to take a few pictures before so I knew I got it together right. Remove drain houses, pump screws, slide pump back and remove pump. A few more screws to remove the pump from the housing & replace with new pump. Put it all back together. It works! It only took about 45 minutes

Our washer and dryer was stacked, and had to remove the dryer to access top of washer. This took 2 people and was not difficult due to the 168 lb weight of the dryer. Turned of water, pulled washer away from wall and disconnected the supply hoses. Removed the 2 screws holding the top, slipped it back and removed. Removed the 2 screws holding the inlet valve assembly, unplugged the wiring harness from the 3 solenoids, disconnected the 3 hoses from the hose bibs on the valves. Mounted new valve assembly, connected hoses making sure that clamps did not touch any other hoses, reconnected wiring harness, turned on water to check for any leaks, put top back on and tried washer out. Changing the valve assembly took a total of 15 minutes. Really simple. The You tube video very helpful in determining how to do the job.

Disconnected power. Removed washer top; only 2 screws in back. Disconnected two wire connectors on Filter Assembly Circuit. Removed assembly; 1 screw. Installed new assembly, reconnected wires, and replaced washer top.

First I turned off the hot and cold water supply and removed the water lines from the back of the machine. I then unscrewed the 2 phillips head screws on the back of the washer for the cover. I slid the cover back and lifted it off the machine. Next, I unscrewed the mounting screws from each inlet valve assemble located on the back of the machine by the hose connections. I used pliers to pull the hose clamps back from the inlet valve, 1 at a time, then reconnected each hose and clamp on the new inlet valve. Once each hose was connected to the new inlet valve, I discarded the old inlet valves. I then re-attached each inlet valve. I placed the cover back on the machine and secured with the 2 screws, re-attached the water supply hoses to the hot and cold side and turned the hot and cold water supply back on. Everything successful, no leaks, and washing laundry again..........leak free!

After checking for blockage on the drain hose and checking on any blockage on the bottom left corner filter and not finding anything i decided to open the machine. Everything suggested a broken drain pump
ITEM
PS3579318 Drain Pump and Motor Assembly which is located on the bottom left corner also and it attaches to the bottom left corner filter. And voila! The machine did not work! Now started throwing a FE code and it would not fill up. Well, the new pump was stuck! All i had to do was to stick my fingers in the bottom left corner filter orifice and move the fan like devices that make the new drain pump work, that did it! Be careful not to do it while the machine is pluged in, those plastic blades may hurt your fingers. To reach the drain pump you have to take the top, control board and front (door and gasket) of the machine off, about one hour labor.

Used a screwdriver to carefull lift the top of washer. Reached in and unplugged old assembly from wir harness. Unscrewed old one (2 screws) from washer screwed in new one connected it to wire harness. Closed top of washer and plugged it in and it was ready to use. I am a 53 year old female and had never done this before. The repair shop wanted $150 to install part plus the part cost more from them. I' m sure a guy could do the job in 15 minutes or less.

Hardest part was getting the correct part. Due to some glitch somewhere there was a mix up in the database for the correct pump number. This unit has two pumps mounted to the same housing. One is a recirculating pump and one is discharge pump. I ordered the discharge pump and kept receiving the recirculating pump. Discharge pump is LG PART#4681EA2001T and recirculating pump is LG PART #4681EA2002H Once in hand the install went fairly smoothly. Removed top - two screws on back of unit. Removed control panel with one screw on upper right inside corner, associated plugs and snap clips. Removed soap tray and drained water through filter tube. Removed screws in front of filter. Using Vise grips stretched spring from around front seal. Removed screws holding front of washer to top frame (2?)[accessed after soap tray removal]. Pump assembly located in bottom left, removed associated hoses, Marked wired colors on pump housings and removed. Removed assembly. Unscrewed pump, installed new pump and reversed procedure to reassemble. Struggled mostly with replacing spring around front seal. Stretch it as far apart as you can as you "roll" the spring in and then massage the seal to get the spring into correct position. Definitely a doable repair. Good Luck.

Loosened hose clamps to remove old bellows. That seemed simple but was awkward reaching into the confined space. Clamp adjustments were all installed facing away from access opening. New one went on easy and I reinstalled clamps facing the opening. Perfect fit!

found a slow leak in one of the valve seat gaskets and decided to replace the entire valve (also did the hot inlet as well just in case). Unplugged unit, detached water hoses (replaced these as well), moved the washer out about 12" from the wall. With Phillips head removed the washer top. With pliers removed the hose clamps off the valve heading to the detergent dispenser (be sure to keep track of what hose goes to what nipple). Detached electric clip from each solenoid. Using Phillips head removed the valve. Use reverse order to install new valve. Ran the unit through a long cycle with the top off to ensure there were no leaks.

unplug washer and disconnect inlet and outlet hoses. drain water from washer (about 2 gallons) by removing lint screen from front of washer. lay washer on side (I used a blanket to avoid damaging the paint) remove all the phillips head screws in the plastic bottom and the metal feet of the washer. Gently pull the bottom of the washer off. There are 3 shock absorber looking things that pull apart and are greasy. Try not to mess with them much. Just pull gently, and they slide apart. cut the zip ties holding the wires to the washer bottom piece. remove the screw in the lint screen area and gently pull the recessed plastic thing out the front of the washer. remove the screws holding the pump assembly on the front of the washer. Remove the three screws holding the pump assembly on the outlet pipe manifold. Installation is the reverse of removal, take care to put the shock absorber looking things back in gently and together at the same time when reinstalling the plastic bottom of the washer.